What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Status
Not open for further replies.
It does...if you have a '99+. The older years don't have a compatible temp sensor.
I thought there was s particular model of the gauge that was required to access trans temp function; or is that just Ultragauge?

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
Can you show how or share a link? I've never seen it successfully done. That would be awesome
If your signature is correct, it won't work for you at all. The trans temps can only be shown on 99+ which has the proper sensors to send that info to be read. Earlier models need a mechanical temp gauge added separately.
I thought there was s particular model of the gauge that was required to access trans temp function; or is that just Ultragauge?

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
No one can ever seem to confirm if Ultragauge will actually read it, so probably not. Scangauge II is the one that will.
 
If your signature is correct, it won't work for you at all. The trans temps can only be shown on 99+ which has the proper sensors to send that info to be read. Earlier models need a mechanical temp gauge added separately.

This is everything I've ever seen or read.
 
If your signature is correct, it won't work for you at all. The trans temps can only be shown on 99+ which has the proper sensors to send that info to be read. Earlier models need a mechanical temp gauge added separately.

No one can ever seem to confirm if Ultragauge will actually read it, so probably not. Scangauge II is the one that will.

well shit...guess I'll have to put one inline when I do the Tranny cooler..:hurt:
 
well shit...guess I'll have to put one inline when I do the Tranny cooler..:hurt:
Then dig into my build thread... I have a digital gauge with dual readouts. That way I can monitor temps before and after the trans cooler. I also read my temp from my torque pro app on my tablet and if they get too high I have a fan I have mounted on the BACK SIDE of my trans cooler that I can turn on. I put it on the back so it doesn't block air flow.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
 
Then dig into my build thread... I have a digital gauge with dual readouts. That way I can monitor temps before and after the trans cooler. I also read my temp from my torque pro app on my tablet and if they get too high I have a fan I have mounted on the BACK SIDE of my trans cooler that I can turn on. I put it on the back so it doesn't block air flow.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

RIGHT ON !! THANKS:high5:
 
installed my 99 center console
 

Attachments

  • 19250881_10158935405795504_464366934_n.jpg
    19250881_10158935405795504_464366934_n.jpg
    38.3 KB · Views: 531
  • 19531613_10158935405780504_1219765371_o.jpg
    19531613_10158935405780504_1219765371_o.jpg
    132.5 KB · Views: 534
Done some searching and thinking today. Guess I bent the pass side rear lower control arm Saturday in Disney, OK. Might make my own boxed control arms for it.
1f79686cd8b6eb7c536b889233944af9.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Dropped it off to have the rear axle seal leak fixed. I'm to busy to even think about it right now and it's my wifes DD. I trust the guy doing the work as much as I trust anyone so it's a win/win. He gets some cash and I get the truck back sooner.
 
We're the "ECT, Rear defrost and rear window" buttons straight plug and play.been wanting to do this to my 98 T4R


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

no only the clock is plug and play

hazard button need to get repined

rear window and ect need to get rewired to the newer plug since its all in one

and as far as the rear defrost i dont think any one has figured out how to make it work.

so i just took mine rand the wires down to the driver side by the pedals and left the original button hooked up
 
What did you do to your 3rd gen today?

and as far as the rear defrost i dont think any one has figured out how to make it work.
False! I found a write-up and got mine to work perfectly [emoji1360] You have to use the original button, as it has the actual locking relay/timer within the housing. The new button actuated the old button. Orange light on the new button worked as it should and everything. Old button gets tucked behind the dash face- to never be seen again [emoji12][emoji1598]
 
Installed an old amp and two 10s in a box that I scored for free at a garage sale. Sat in my driveway bumpin old school tunes into the night. It was like being back in the early 90s again. :D
 
Photoshopped

Didn't do much... today.

Recently replaced steering rack, all tie rods, and re-sprung the whole rig.

Drives much better!! Had huge cabin gear haul yesterday, and truck is solid, for once.
 

Attachments

  • 20170621_074955_HDR_resized.jpg
    20170621_074955_HDR_resized.jpg
    140.2 KB · Views: 472
  • 20170621_074942_HDR_resized.jpg
    20170621_074942_HDR_resized.jpg
    119.7 KB · Views: 498
  • 20170621_074932_HDR_resized.jpg
    20170621_074932_HDR_resized.jpg
    130.8 KB · Views: 479
  • 20170622_183851_HDR_resized.jpg
    20170622_183851_HDR_resized.jpg
    139.1 KB · Views: 482
  • 20170627_203634_HDR_resized.jpg
    20170627_203634_HDR_resized.jpg
    143.5 KB · Views: 473
Trying to buy brakes to upgrade my TBU from the 190 to 230 calipers. No one on Amazon will ship to Alaska (seems more and more won't even try). Tried outside Amazon and sites are wanting anything from $170 to $340 just in shipping. Getting so hard to do anything anymore.....

Kind of running out of options. If I get them from the local parts store they fail in two years, on a regular basis. I talk to them about it and they think that's normal. Even with life time replacement, it's not acceptable.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
 
Rear axle swap complete

Thanks to [MENTION=147235]Renegade_Medic[/MENTION]Renegade_Medic for all the help on this one.

I had a horrible grinding sound coming from the rear end. Initially thought it was the back brakes. After swapping out the old brakes and dropping in new ones. Sound continued. While it was on the jacks we identified that it was a bad third member. Off to the junk yard we went and were able to recover a rear axle with a 3.73 vs. my 4.10. While the rear end was out we dropped in new springs and shocks to get rid of the rear sag. Daily driver so just did stock replacement on a budget. The swap ended up taking a couple hours but now the ride is smooth, no more rear end sag and feels so much better.

1IhAF51.jpg


KVhgMHD.jpg


YSZjCzk.jpg
 
Thanks to [MENTION=147235]Renegade_Medic[/MENTION]Renegade_Medic for all the help on this one.

I had a horrible grinding sound coming from the rear end. Initially thought it was the back brakes. After swapping out the old brakes and dropping in new ones. Sound continued. While it was on the jacks we identified that it was a bad third member. Off to the junk yard we went and were able to recover a rear axle with a 3.73 vs. my 4.10. While the rear end was out we dropped in new springs and shocks to get rid of the rear sag. Daily driver so just did stock replacement on a budget. The swap ended up taking a couple hours but now the ride is smooth, no more rear end sag and feels so much better.

1IhAF51.jpg


KVhgMHD.jpg


YSZjCzk.jpg

Any reason why you didn't just replace the bearings in the third member ? Also good way to check for bad diff bearings is to have the car in the air and it drive.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top