What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[IamNegan]

You'd get more help if you shared the specs of all the running gear on the wheels that rub.

What is stock, what is not? Tire size, spacers? all wheel dimensions if not OEM, UCA mfg/model, all lift specs, the model year.....I could go on but that's a start........

Hey Endlessblockades thanks for offering to help. :thanks: I was just saying what I did to my 3rd gen today. I am new so my plan was not to start with asking for help. Recently had to fix a leak on my trans cooler etc as well. Glad to share my lift details though.

Dobinsons 2.5 inch lift (springs, shocks), JBA UCA, replaced LBJ, KP offroad alignment cam & cam tab upgrade kit reinforced, Whiteline bushings, Overland custom design sway bar links (yes I kept the swaybar for long drives) Eimkeith strut tower reinforcement, lower control arm reinforcements, duro bump stops Wheels SCS SR8 17x8.5 - 10mm, tires Toyo Open Country A/T III 285/70R17

I think thats everything.

Its been years since the spacers so I dont have the measurements (including pic), need to dig that up.

Irrelevant? Tundra brakes 231mm

Ive cut the inner fender in the typical places. As far as I can tell the cams are in the neutral position and I think they need to be set to forward caster beyond what the JBA arms gave me. That is what I am scratching my head about. Hoping not to have to buy the SPC UCAs to fix the issue.

thanks again

 

[Bad Luck]

Hey Endlessblockades thanks for offering to help. :thanks: I was just saying what I did to my 3rd gen today. I am new so my plan was not to start with asking for help. Recently had to fix a leak on my trans cooler etc as well. Glad to share my lift details though.

Dobinsons 2.5 inch lift (springs, shocks), JBA UCA, replaced LBJ, KP offroad alignment cam & cam tab upgrade kit reinforced, Whiteline bushings, Overland custom design sway bar links (yes I kept the swaybar for long drives) Eimkeith strut tower reinforcement, lower control arm reinforcements, duro bump stops Wheels SCS SR8 17x8.5 - 10mm, tires Toyo Open Country A/T III 285/70R17

I think thats everything.

Its been years since the spacers so I dont have the measurements (including pic), need to dig that up.

Irrelevant? Tundra brakes 231mm

Ive cut the inner fender in the typical places. As far as I can tell the cams are in the neutral position and I think they need to be set to forward caster beyond what the JBA arms gave me. That is what I am scratching my head about. Hoping not to have to buy the SPC UCAs to fix the issue.

thanks again

The wide wheels (stock is 7" wide), wider and taller tires, and the upper control arms with additional caster aren't helping either. I also see wheel spacers in the photos. If you haven't already I would recommend removing the wheel spacers as long as your wheels don't rub on your calipers. Did you get an alignment since all of the changes?

 

[IamNegan]

The wide wheels (stock is 7" wide), wider and taller tires, and the upper control arms with additional caster aren't helping either. I also see wheel spacers in the photos. If you haven't already I would recommend removing the wheel spacers as long as your wheels don't rub on your calipers. Did you get an alignment since all of the changes?

Thanks Bad Luck, yeah it was aligned. Good point, I can certainly try removing the spacers this evening or weekend.

I should have mentioned that the gap between front to back is not even. The front gap is wider than the back when the wheel is straight. Which is why I was leaning towards more forward caster?

 

[JDG2000]

I don't think anyone is getting 20 combined unless they are doing 75%+ highway driving or they live in a place without many stop lights. I probably get around 18-18.5 combined if I'm doing a 50/50 mix.

Ok, well that's good to know. I'm on my first full tank with the new sensor so we'll see how it works.

 

[toverturf]

Hey Endlessblockades thanks for offering to help. :thanks: I was just saying what I did to my 3rd gen today. I am new so my plan was not to start with asking for help. Recently had to fix a leak on my trans cooler etc as well. Glad to share my lift details though.

Dobinsons 2.5 inch lift (springs, shocks), JBA UCA, replaced LBJ, KP offroad alignment cam & cam tab upgrade kit reinforced, Whiteline bushings, Overland custom design sway bar links (yes I kept the swaybar for long drives) Eimkeith strut tower reinforcement, lower control arm reinforcements, duro bump stops Wheels SCS SR8 17x8.5 - 10mm, tires Toyo Open Country A/T III 285/70R17

I think thats everything.

Its been years since the spacers so I dont have the measurements (including pic), need to dig that up.

Irrelevant? Tundra brakes 231mm

Ive cut the inner fender in the typical places. As far as I can tell the cams are in the neutral position and I think they need to be set to forward caster beyond what the JBA arms gave me. That is what I am scratching my head about. Hoping not to have to buy the SPC UCAs to fix the issue.

thanks again

I have the same wheels and tires. I don't run spacers. My LCA's are set to rear out as far as it can go and front is in the middle mainly because I couldn't get the arm to go in all the way because of how the 333 Fab cam eliminator kit only allows 3 alignment points. That KPOffroad kit does look nicer. At that setting though I don't rub the inner fender and pinch weld during normal driving. I used to when my alignment cams were in a more neutral position with JBA UCA's and I was backing up with my wheel turned all the way. I might rub the tiniest amount if i'm offroading and the tire is stuffed up into to fender but not a big deal to me. I did have to trim the front bumper a little though but I plan on getting a new bumper soon anyways. I also got SPC arms to fine tune the alignment. If I was you I think i'd at least move the rear part of the LCA out and see how it looks after an alignment.

 

[IamNegan]

I have the same wheels and tires. I don't run spacers. My LCA's are set to rear out as far as it can go and front is in the middle mainly because I couldn't get the arm to go in all the way because of how the 333 Fab cam eliminator kit only allows 3 alignment points. That KPOffroad kit does look nicer. At that setting though I don't rub the inner fender and pinch weld during normal driving. I used to when my alignment cams were in a more neutral position with JBA UCA's and I was backing up with my wheel turned all the way. I might rub the tiniest amount if i'm offroading and the tire is stuffed up into to fender but not a big deal to me. I did have to trim the front bumper a little though but I plan on getting a new bumper soon anyways. I also got SPC arms to fine tune the alignment. If I was you I think i'd at least move the rear part of the LCA out and see how it looks after an alignment.

Thank you very much for the detailed response. I will try removing the spacers this weekend just to see what it does, but i would like the tire to sit more in the middle not have that much difference between front and back.

I think I want to try, max out in the back, slightly in up front. Hoping to keep my spacers going to fight that lol. :boxer:

Sorry if I am misunderstanding but, Did you end up giving up on the JBA and going SPC? Thanks again! :thanks:

 

[toverturf]

Thank you very much for the detailed response. I will try removing the spacers this weekend just to see what it does, but i would like the tire to sit more in the middle not have that much difference between front and back.

I think I want to try, max out in the back, slightly in up front. Hoping to keep my spacers going to fight that lol. :boxer:

Sorry if I am misunderstanding but, Did you end up giving up on the JBA and going SPC? Thanks again! :thanks:

Yea I switched from JBA to SPC. I'm not sure if I 100% needed to though. I swapped in the SPC arms with the cam eliminator plates so I never tested out the cam alignment spots with the JBA arms. I guess you'll find out how it works.

 

[Twan]

Popped a P0300, 0303, 0304 on the way into work. Truck is definitely running rougher, so I ordered a set of coils and plugs to replace this weekend. Hopefully that's the fix, but if not, then at least I replaced the original coils and a few year old plugs.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

I should have mentioned that the gap between front to back is not even. The front gap is wider than the back when the wheel is straight. Which is why I was leaning towards more forward caster?

For what it's worth, when you lift a truck, you lose caster (caster becomes less positive). The JBA UCAs address this problem by positioning the upper ball joint further back than stock, which restores the caster lost by the lift - What is more caster?.

However in many cases, moving the upper ball joint back also creates rubbing in the back of the wheelwell. To address this, you can adjust the lower control arm cams to move the entire wheel forward in the wheelwell. You do that by rotating the front cams "in" and the rear cams "out", like this (black is neutral, orange is more caster):

I had a whole thread on this issue - Alignment Issues After Lift

You seem to have the opposite issue though, that your wheel is already too far forward. That's a bit odd, especially if like you said your cam eliminator plates are set to "neutral". Are you sure that's how they are set?

Also, did you have the truck aligned? What are your current caster numbers?

And finally, from my understanding, cam eliminator plates are not meant to be used with non-adjustable UCAs like JBAs, you simply won't be able to dial in the alignment accurately. I know that the KP Offroad octagonal plates give you more adjustability than the square ones from 333 Fab, but I still wonder if that's enough? That's where the switch to adjustable UCAs like SPC might be useful.

Hope this helps.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Hey Endlessblockades thanks for offering to help. :thanks: I was just saying what I did to my 3rd gen today. I am new so my plan was not to start with asking for help. Recently had to fix a leak on my trans cooler etc as well. Glad to share my lift details though.

Dobinsons 2.5 inch lift (springs, shocks), JBA UCA, replaced LBJ, KP offroad alignment cam & cam tab upgrade kit reinforced, Whiteline bushings, Overland custom design sway bar links (yes I kept the swaybar for long drives) Eimkeith strut tower reinforcement, lower control arm reinforcements, duro bump stops Wheels SCS SR8 17x8.5 - 10mm, tires Toyo Open Country A/T III 285/70R17


I think thats everything.

Its been years since the spacers so I dont have the measurements (including pic), need to dig that up.

Irrelevant? Tundra brakes 231mm

Ive cut the inner fender in the typical places. As far as I can tell the cams are in the neutral position and I think they need to be set to forward caster beyond what the JBA arms gave me. That is what I am scratching my head about. Hoping not to have to buy the SPC UCAs to fix the issue.

thanks again

Sorry, man - I totally misread the intent of your original post! I glad some non-idiots are on the job here.

 

[octanejunkie]

For what it's worth, when you lift a truck, you lose caster (caster becomes less positive). The JBA UCAs address that problem by positioning the upper ball joint further back than stock, which restores the caster lost by the lift - What is more caster?.



However in many cases, moving the upper ball joint back also creates rubbing in the back of the wheelwell. To address that, you can adjust the lower control arms to move the entire wheel forward in the wheelwell. You do that by rotating the front cams "in" and the rear cams "out", like this (black is neutral, orange is more caster):

I had a whole thread on this issue - Alignment Issues After Lift



You seem to have the opposite issue though, that your wheel is already too far forward. That's a bit odd, especially if like you said your cam eliminator plates are set to "neutral". Are you sure that's how they are set?



Also, did you have the truck aligned? What are your current caster numbers?



And finally, from my understanding, cam eliminator plates are not meant to be used with non-adjustable UCAs like JBAs, you simply won't be able to dial in the alignment accurately. I know that the KP Offorad octagonal plates give you more adjustability than the ones from 333 Fab, but I still wonder if that's enough? That's where the switch to adjustable UCAs like SPC might be useful.



Hope this helps.

Leon nailed it

I have the same setup as you [MENTION=731125]IamNegan[/MENTION]

SPC UCAs
Cam eliminators
Stock LCAs
~3" Lift
Oversized tires

I have my cam eliminators set like the pic Leon posted, rear cams positive (outboard) and front cam neutral (centered) with my UBJs set to 'E'

This pushes my 33" (255/85 R16) tires away from the firewall and since the SPCs separate the caster and camber adjustments, I have spot-on alignment and zero rubbing.

 

[Bad Luck]

Work was slow this week due to inclement weather. Which in the South doesn't take much for people to stay home. Tuesday I resealed my oil pan, front axle seals, new front axle shafts, and new lower ball joint bolts. The passenger side seal I installed too far so my brother was kind enough to 3d print an install tool for me that would only push the seal in 5mm before bottoming out. It worked great! Also took the time to clean the front diff and suspension with a bristle brush and brake cleaner to make it easier to spot leaks.

Work was still slow on Thursday/Friday so I replaced my transmission/flywheel/clutch, new rear main seal while I was there, new master/slave cylinders and braided clutch line, replaced the transfer case input seal, replaced all brake hoses with braided steel lines, and replaced the front sway bar bushings. I once again took the time to cleanup the transfer case and transmission tunnel to make it easier to identify leaks. The most time consuming part was removing the front and rear driveshafts. I was forced to use 2 wrenches due to lack of clearance. Brakes/clutch system bled thoroughly.

Test drove after reassembly and verified operation and no leaks. I'm honestly underwhelmed by the 5th gear ratio change I did, but I've only driven it about 30 miles or so since the swap. I'll give a more updated review after some more seat time.

 

[brillo_76]

I am sure that 5mm tool is sweet.. that would come in handy. I wish toyota would have made a better lip for that one.

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[Bad Luck]

I am sure that 5mm tool is sweet.. that would come in handy. I wish toyota would have made a better lip for that one.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

It's definitely a one off tool, but a lot cheaper than buying the wit's end specialty tool! Let me know if you want one.

 

[stuckinthemud]

I installed a new radiator and cap from Anaheim Toyota (had to drive an hour to pick up). A thermostat and gasket from Toyota of Oxnard( my local dealer purchased on line and picked up in person.) Purchased an upper and lower radiator hose from AutoZone. The upper fit fine but the lower wasn't even close, the hose kinked when installed. Will have to bring it back.
Also installed a inline axillary transmission cooler. When I took the grill off, every one of the brittle grill clips broke.
Ordered new grill clips and an lower hose from Toyota of Oxnard.
Mike.

 

[greembow]

Sorry for the late reply- I'm not fully used to this forum. They are made by AUXITO on amazon. I had to message them and have them send some decoders so my high beam indicator would work, but aside from that, I love them!

 

[clearock]

Picked it up in this condition

 

[javob]

I just picked up my 98 SR5 today, it's got a 5100 shock/strut lift and TRD tires, it's been in a front end collision but I'm fixing it with help of my friend [MENTION=584845]RodrickHeffley[/MENTION]

Hoping to get a build thread up here soon

 

[RodrickHeffley]

Picked it up in this condition

what're your plans with it?


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[clearock]

what're your plans with it?


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Model reassignment operation, just haven't decide if putting a 4runner body onto the Tacoma frame (has some rust areas around the rear leaf to frame mount points) or going all the way and using a 4runner body and frame, is better. Tacoma is a 3.4L w/rear 4:10 locker.