What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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JohnBill53
New member
Holy lights
XJeepguy
Member
:worthless
This past weekend I changed my lower ball joints, outer tie rod ends, one inner tie rod end and the plugs.
The plugs looked OK when I pulled them, but now the hesitation I was getting when I pushed the boundaries of a particular gear instead of downshifting is gone so looks like they were on their way out as I'd suspected.
AND for the doubters (I was one of them) that think aftermarket ball joints are worth the savings, the ones I replaced were aftermarkets and while much cheaper than the Toyota ones were toast after 1 year and <15k kms!
The plugs looked OK when I pulled them, but now the hesitation I was getting when I pushed the boundaries of a particular gear instead of downshifting is gone so looks like they were on their way out as I'd suspected.
AND for the doubters (I was one of them) that think aftermarket ball joints are worth the savings, the ones I replaced were aftermarkets and while much cheaper than the Toyota ones were toast after 1 year and <15k kms!
zgensler31
Senior Member
I picked up my parts truck on saturday, and started outting it to good use today.
I pull the rear tailgate handle assembly out and jnstalled it into mine. As well as the working clock.
Should hopefully be able to get started kn the 5 speed swap soon, just have to get some money for new parts (valve cover gaskets, plugs, fluids and such)
I pull the rear tailgate handle assembly out and jnstalled it into mine. As well as the working clock.
Should hopefully be able to get started kn the 5 speed swap soon, just have to get some money for new parts (valve cover gaskets, plugs, fluids and such)
Chandlerdoom
New member
Finally bit the bullet.
Bought my lift. Bilsteins with eibach for the front and 890 for the rear
Also grabbed OEM LBJs and front and rear brakes. Tundra brake upgrade will have to wait for now
Bought my lift. Bilsteins with eibach for the front and 890 for the rear
Also grabbed OEM LBJs and front and rear brakes. Tundra brake upgrade will have to wait for now
noclinkers
New member
Started a rear bumper today. Got it mocked up, but lots to do still.
Pretty much finished.
Installed my new suspension
After months of trying to make a decision, I finally went with the OME system.
Parts:
Front: 880 coils, 90004 Nitrochargers, 1/4" top plate spacers
Rear:906 coils, 60028 shocks, 10mm trim packers
Measurements Before:
Front: Axle center to top of wheel well: Drivers = 19-3/4", Pass = 20"
Ground to top of wheel well: Drivers = 34", Pass = 34-1/4"
Rear: Axle center to top of wheel well: Drivers = 20-1/4", Pass = 20-1/2"
Ground to top of wheel well: Drivers = 34-1/4", Pass = 34-1/2"
Measurements After:
Front: Axle center to top of wheel well: Drivers = 21-3/4", Pass = 21-1/2"
Ground to top of wheel well: Drivers = 36", Pass = 35-3/4"
Rear: Axle center to top of wheel well: Drivers = 20-1/4", Pass = 20-1/2"
Ground to top of wheel well: Drivers = 37", Pass = 37"
I haven't driven it much yet, but the ride is firm but feels planted. Thanks to everyone here that had shared their lift experiences - I spent many hours reading up on the various pieces/parts before pulling the trigger on the OME.
Picture of the goodies, before, and after:
After months of trying to make a decision, I finally went with the OME system.
Parts:
Front: 880 coils, 90004 Nitrochargers, 1/4" top plate spacers
Rear:906 coils, 60028 shocks, 10mm trim packers
Measurements Before:
Front: Axle center to top of wheel well: Drivers = 19-3/4", Pass = 20"
Ground to top of wheel well: Drivers = 34", Pass = 34-1/4"
Rear: Axle center to top of wheel well: Drivers = 20-1/4", Pass = 20-1/2"
Ground to top of wheel well: Drivers = 34-1/4", Pass = 34-1/2"
Measurements After:
Front: Axle center to top of wheel well: Drivers = 21-3/4", Pass = 21-1/2"
Ground to top of wheel well: Drivers = 36", Pass = 35-3/4"
Rear: Axle center to top of wheel well: Drivers = 20-1/4", Pass = 20-1/2"
Ground to top of wheel well: Drivers = 37", Pass = 37"
I haven't driven it much yet, but the ride is firm but feels planted. Thanks to everyone here that had shared their lift experiences - I spent many hours reading up on the various pieces/parts before pulling the trigger on the OME.
Picture of the goodies, before, and after:
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4x4runner2002
New member
new radiator and thermostat at 160K no milkshake for me!!!!
Rocky5000100
New member
Perfect lift!
XJeepguy
Member
Long as you use proper coolant and not tap water , you wont have any milkshake issues.
4x4runner2002
New member
yup used toyota long life red and arrowhead distilled water. oem thermostat and gasket too. should be good.
but this new set up is running about 8 degrees warmer than my old set up. new is a koyo. idk im sure its fine.
TNRunner99
New member
Fantastic job. That piece added to the side really ties it together and looks good. Perfect 4Runner emblem!
LittleCaesar
New member
Make sure the jiggle valve is between 5 and 6 o'clock when putting in the new thermostat.
4x4runner2002
New member
i put it at 12 o'clock. thats what i was told by the mechanic at my dealership and a yota tech thread. its staying constant at 200-202 degrees
PitbullRescuer
New member
After almost knocking myself out this past weekend, I replaced the rear hatch struts.
LittleCaesar
New member
When you open up the coolant system again at a later time, rotate the T-stat jiggle valve to 5-6 o'clock, and the temps should then be reading in the low 190s.
LittleCaesar
New member
Pics of some bruising? :faint:
A broom stick works wonders, or a telescoping fiberglass paint stick, for me.
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