MarkamisPrime
New member
Let the brother in law take her and the nephews up to the snow.
Radiator and Thermostat swap. Dropped 12 degrees off my coolant temp, now just have to find somewhere in Ohio that takes recycled coolant. Jiggle valve was at 12 o'clock, moved it to 6.
And the first car wash of the year...







Get a filter wrench that has a double flex joint handle works perfectly. Spend $15-20 on it. I have never taken off a factory or my current skid other than to drill a access hole. i cant speak to Savage but Ive been able to reach around the side of the skid plate....my current skid has a small access hole for the drain plug and side guards...I can still get around it. My tranny plate does not have a drain access....but will after I take it off this week to put my new springs on.
Get a filter wrench that has a double flex joint handle works perfectly. Spend $15-20 on it. I have never taken off a factory or my current skid other than to drill a access hole. i cant speak to Savage but Ive been able to reach around the side of the skid plate....my current skid has a small access hole for the drain plug and side guards...I can still get around it. My tranny plate does not have a drain access....but will after I take it off this week to put my new springs on.
I will have to check that out. Something like this? >> https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5868-4-Inch-Filter-Wrench/dp/B000NPPB6U
I got the goofy Penzoil one. It was NOT double flex, and there was no room to get it to take hold. I would be happy to use one of those cap cover to socket wrench fittings that fit over the end of the filter, but I can't seem to find one that will work. Again... Penzoil hates 4runners. The pliers worked, but unless I get creative, It seems like I have to go from underneath, up the side near the radiator / fan to get a hold of the filter, and have the leverage to use it. A tool that is capable and small enough to go in through the side would be great.
This may not happen often. A friend of mine was helping me install my lift a month ago and he thought that my filter looked like it was leaking a bit. (probably) spilled oil from last change. Well he mentioned it as he was twisting it. I didn't think about it till today... lol. Hands of steel i guess. It is extremely easy to overdo it, and extremely difficult to undo it.
This is why I like K&N oil filters. There is a 1" exposed nut on top of the filter that you can use a socket to easily take off if needed. Smart design.
https://www.amazon.com/HP-1002-Perf...qid=1487587054&sr=8-9&keywords=k&n+oil+filter
I will have to check that out. Something like this? >>
Yes...mine are very similar....but have traction stippling in two rows around the entire band. I have had mine close to 30 years, but they are high quality made not flimsy at all. Make sure you get the correct size. I have 3 different sizes. I gain access from the bottom around the right edge of the skid by the radiator as you mentioned.
Like you said....why the hell people tighten them so tight no one knows. Hand snug not tight...never had one ever come loose in over 40 years and I grew up on farm with dozens of vehicles getting oil changes from lawn mowers to heavy trucks. Need wrenches for that 1/4 turn to get a tight one loose or from some idiot who put a wrench on it.
Out with the old, in with the new. I couldn't wait until the weekend so I swapped out the 2002 cup holders/console after work today.
BTW, I have a 3D printed cup holder now I don't need. I bought it this Christmas and realized I finally got a good deal on the 99+ cup holders.
Installed Toytec/Eibach springs and LC 8 wraps with Bilstein 5100's all the way around. Fresh set of BFG KO2 285/75/16 mounted also.![]()
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Finally finished my rear full float conversion.
Then I decided I needed to see if these would fit on the rear.
I flexed it as much as my floor jack would go and they fit. There is about 3 more inches of compression before hitting the bumpstops and so I'm sure some trimming would be needed. This may be in the future. :hatsoff:
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