What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Had a kickass time in the snow.

IMG_20130101_115759.jpg
~original[/IMG]

What size tires are you running? I have tundra 17's and am wondering if I can run spacers without rubbing.
 
What size tires are you running? I have tundra 17's and am wondering if I can run spacers without rubbing.

I am running 255/75/17 with a 1.25 spidertrax spacer. I installed the front lift and tires yesterday, i didnt rub any today but it never really flexed out. I dont rub just driving around though, if thats any help.
 
I am running 255/75/17 with a 1.25 spidertrax spacer. I installed the front lift and tires yesterday, i didnt rub any today but it never really flexed out. I dont rub just driving around though, if thats any help.

Yours is the first I have seen run the 255's on Sequoia rims. Do you have more pictures? I have almost the same setup. Sequoia rims , light racing arms , and icon extended coils. Looks great.
 
Yours is the first I have seen run the 255's on Sequoia rims. Do you have more pictures? I have almost the same setup. Sequoia rims , light racing arms , and icon extended coils. Looks great.

Thanks dude, I really like the setup. Its a great rim with what is a perfect size tire for me. I can take any photos you like, just let me know what you would like to see.

Nate
 
What model year did you put on it? new/used and cost would be great I am doing research before I upgrade my lights on my 96...thanks

They're 99-02 headlight housings. You can find them new online for around 40-50 a piece... or you can buy from the dealer for ~$200 a piece LOL
 
smkd13,

how exactly is your audio setup? From the picture it looks like you have a battery and a CAP as a separate circuit from the main power ....


btw, it makes 0 sense to hook up a 1F CAP 4 inches from a full battery like that, just the battery will be fine; LoL.

The battery is able to provide the same power-on-demand as the 1F-CAP BUT times 500,000 (or whatever, maybe a million)

:guitar2:

The battery is paralleled to the main am the cap is just there as a voltage equalizer (can't remember the correct term). It is only there for any possible dips that may occur. (Highly unlikely) previous system didn't have the second bat and had some pretty bad voltage drops on that setup. Capacitors store current but keep a constant voltage by always being able to apply the req current to the load. Capacitors are actually a very weak way to power an electrical system that has a high draw on it. In a DC system caps are mainly used as a voltage stabilizer.

True there realistically is no need for it. But I got it so I will use it. Batteries will be getting relocated eventually then I might serve more purpose but right now it has none except to stabilize voltage if needed. Oh and to tell me what my batteries voltage is lol
 
Capacitors store current but keep a constant voltage by always being able to apply the req current to the load.


With a normal system a cap will "stiffen the voltage" since the amp is 15 ft from the battery and that battery is running the cars electronics.

In your setup that is pointless since you have a battery (think super cap) just 4 inches away from the amp.

Btw I used to have a cap in my audio system .... until I bought an optima yellow top and threw the cap away :)
 
Last edited:
Sweet thank you, I'll have to look em up.

Do not throw your stock housings away. The cheap $50 lights are not the same as the stock $200 housings.

The main difference is light cutoff pattern and plastic housing quality.

The solution is to keep your stock housings, but bake and swap then the 99+ clear glass over from TCY on stock.

So still buy the TYC brand on eBay but only swap the glass.
 
Last edited:
Do not throw your stock housings away. The cheap $50 lights are not the same as the stock $200 housings.

The main difference is light cutoff pattern and plastic housing quality.

The solution is to keep your stock housings, but bake and swap then the 99+ clear glass over from TCY on stock.

So still buy the TYC brand on eBay but only swap the glass.

Good point! Ill add to the "keep for spare/parts" list...but you got me when you said " but bake and swap ". are my going to ask my wife permission to use her oven for car parts!!?? LOL :hiding:
 
You'll be fine. The baking is pretty easy. 6 mins at 300F then set on soft cloth and use a flat head to pry off glass. Be careful not to chip glass.
 
Do not throw your stock housings away. The cheap $50 lights are not the same as the stock $200 housings.

The main difference is light cutoff pattern and plastic housing quality.

The solution is to keep your stock housings, but bake and swap then the 99+ clear glass over from TCY on stock.

So still buy the TYC brand on eBay but only swap the glass.

Good to know! I didn't know that, thank you! As I'm planning to do this soon as well.
 
You'll be fine. The baking is pretty easy. 6 mins at 300F then set on soft cloth and use a flat head to pry off glass. Be careful not to chip glass.
Wow, and I thought it was a typo. I guess I better further research this on the forum. Know of any good write ups with pics off hand? If there isn't one I guess it would be the perfect time for me to write one up. Thanks again for the advise.
 
Sure. Use the advanced search thread, linked in my signature to search "projector retrofit"

I'm sure you will find some good pics.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top