What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Been ignoring the Runner lately but the tailer got a lift spring for the lid and the tailgate got proper latches.

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What did you do to your 3rd gen today?

Installed Micky thompson classics 16x8 with -20 offset lt265/75/16 at3 only have rubbing when in reverse at full lock. Stock suspension
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Damn that looks good!!! You ever think about taking that trim ring off the fender wells?


Thanks, I have some rust I need to fix under the trim ring on the other side so probably will install a set of bushwacker extend a flares that I picked up 2 months ago for cheap so I don't have to paint after rust repair. Do you think it would look better without any trim/flare?
 
Installed 1 1/2" spacers in the back to help with the sag. Thanks to [MENTION=68460]Dezert4Runner[/MENTION] for the deal. It's got a bit of a rake now, I'll be on the lookout for some tall coils or top plate spacers for the front.

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At 138,000, I finally got all this replaced!! The belts didn't look too bad considering they were the Original! The water pump was leaking though.

1 Timing Belt Mitsuboshi TB271M
1 Idler Roller NSK 13503-62040
1 Tensioner Roller Koyo 13505-62070
1 Front Crankshaft Seal KP/Stone/THO 90311-40022/13
2 Front Camshaft Seals KP/Stone/THO 90311-38051
1 Water Pump Aisin 16100-69398-83
1 Water Pump Gasket Aisin Included
1 Hydraulic Tensioner Toyota 13540-62021
1 Thermostat (82°c) Kuzeh 90916-03075
1 Thermostat Gasket Aisin 16325-62010
1 Air Conditioning Belt Bando 4PK-0870
1 Alternator Belt Bando 4PK-1050
1 Power Steering Belt


I bought the kit from here:
Toyota 3 4L V6 Complete Timing Belt Water Pump Kit | eBay

and then had a shop near me install it. 6.9 hours of labor @$80, $580ish total.

Unfortunately my radiator was leaking (he showed me) so I had to pick up one of those for $170.


So in total:
580
+170
+261
______

$1011

Was that a decent deal? I hate messing with engine timing, so I figured I'd have a shop who does them all the time do it. And those rollers didn't look fun.
 
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Pulled off the front struts and LBJs. Learned a few important lessons:

1) Tie-rod end pullers work like this: "Nope... nope... nope... nope... noooope... BANG surprise! Hahaha!"

1b) I will never get used to #1.

2) Spring compressors work like this: "Maybe... maybe... maybe... nope. Now what are you going to do? That's right, undo it and let the shop assemble this strut. Hahaha!"

2b) If I never use a spring compressor again in my entire life, it will be too soon.

3) A 24" breaker bar solves everything. And whenever this is false, a 24" steel pipe on the end of the 24" breaker bar makes it true again.

4) 24mm sockets are made of unicorn horn and world peace. And if you find one, it will be in a pack that contains a dozen other sockets you already have.

4b) 15/16" SAE sockets are practically free, available solo, and close enough to 24mm as makes no difference.

5) LBJ swap is easy as hell. Cheap insurance.

Here are the lessons I hope to not learn in the next 24 hours:

1) The dealership doesn't know how to assemble a front strut with the top bolts pointing in the right direction. (Please don't screw it up... please don't screw it up...)

2) The rear shock top bolts are a ***** even if you're relatively rust free and they've been soaking in pblaster for a week.
 
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Against popular belief, that is NOT the easiest way to change your rear tire :shrug: Hope everything gets fixed easily

Changing the tire part is pretty easy. It's the getting it back over part. I'll end up spending a good amount of time making repairs. A nice bastard rail and internal cage should do the trick.
 
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