What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Status
Not open for further replies.
bc8bddb61f463a8367d5de98817e48d6.jpg

Much needed shower [emoji7][emoji7]
 
Flushed the engine coolant system yesterday using Zerex Super flush:
https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/ZRXZXC01
NWMDC


During this process I disconnected the transmission fluid rubber hoses from the radiator and connected them together (bypassing the radiator). I was paranoid of the pink milkshake happening during the engine flush, that there could be a corrosion-barrier that the flush treatment would dissolve. Anyways, I drove it through the neighborhood (<40mph) to help heat up the engine and circulate the flush treatment. Occasionally I would stop and hand-check the temperature of the transmission fluid through the rubber hose. It got warm, but not too hot.

Today I will replace the radiator and change out the transmission fluid. Of significance, the transmission fluid on the dipstick did not smell burnt, but when I drained the fluid, what came out definitely had a tinge of a burnt smell to it. So it seems the dipstick smell test is inadequate.

Also, for those doing a fluid exchange quart for quart replacement is not going get you the right amount added back if the old/drain-fluid is hot! The fluid I drained from the pan reduced in volume overnight after it cooled down. I also got ~4.5 quarts from the pan, and it was measuring high on the dipstick. My theory is the previous owner exchanged the fluid, replaced hot with cold, and ended up with more fluid in the transmission that what should have been there.
 
Attempted to drop off my rig at the dealership to have the 100k SC service. Turns out they forgot to order gaskets or some BS to complete the job, so I need to go back Friday. After reading about the 2nd gen TRD SC in this forum, methinks they're missing more than just gaskets. I asked the service writer about the need to replace the nose cone, and all I got was a blank stare. Oh, and btw, they want $1100 to do that maintenance. Yikes!

PS. Filled my first tank full today. Got 15.8 mpg. Ouch. 220 miles on a tank sound about right? 50-50 mix of city/hwy driving. Still happy with her tho!



That's low, I used to get 19-20 mpg stock, mix city/highway


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Tried to replace my Lower Ball Joints today. Started out on the drivers side - real easy, everything came apart just fine, got it put together without any problems.

Passenger side came apart easily too, but when I went to put it together I found out that the part I got (OEM - Amazon) is defective. There is supposed to be a bushing where the tie rod end connects to the ball joint but this part does not have it.



:mad:
 
What bumper is that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Looks like a CBI to me


2002 T4R 3" Rough Country suspension lift, K&N intake, Method Race wheels, 33" Mickey Thompson Mud Terrain, Savage off-road front winch bumper, Warn 9000lb winch, CBI ditch light brackets, KC ditch lights.
 
Cleaned and repainted my frame for the winter. Got most of ithe done. Need to pull the wheels and paint behind them, had it up on a 4 post wheel lift so it wasn't an option today.
 
Replaced the radiator (Koyo) & thermostat (Toyota OEM). Installed new coolant hoses, upper and lower.
Exchanged the transmission fluid. Drain and filled the pan, ran the engine to pump through the new / push out the old from the transmission-to-radiator hose. Used Valvoline long life synthetic ATF. Installed new transmission fluid hoses as well. OEM return hose that has the 90 degree bend.
Aftermarket hose for the transmission output which is 'straight shot' to the radiator. I initially cut the length to be 12.5" but had to cut another 1/2" off for a better fit.
Derale Transmission Engine Oil Cooler Hi Temp Hose P/N 13017. 3/8" ID, 11/16" OD (same as OEM). Made by Continental in USA.
Oil Hose : 3/8" x 25' Engine or Transmission Oil Hose
By the foot: Derale Transmission Engine Oil Cooler 3/8 ID Hose Hi Temp 13017 Sold By the Foot | eBay

Just out of curiosity, I opened up the radiator at the bottom to see if there was any risk of the pink milkshake happening to me. See pic below. After 150K miles, there was no observable corrosion on the inside oil cooler. Those flat heat exchange fin tubes are very thin, so I can see how just a little corrosion could lead to such a failure.
 

Attachments

  • radiator inside.jpg
    radiator inside.jpg
    120.3 KB · Views: 475
I'm really curious to find out what this mystery bushing is. It's loose either because your OTR is shot on that side or you haven't tightened the nut to 67 ft-lbs.
 
Replaced the alternator with a 160a from Quality Power. Took longer than I thought it would due mostly to getting the adjuster bolt back in. Doubt I'll ever need it to produce 160a, but it should be overbuilt for my uses.
 
This past Saturday I went and picked up my 2000 4R with 97k, supercharger and e-locker. Been learning a lot about these cars and will post an official intro/build thread once I am able too.

For now, the only thing I've done is take her home, buy some Goodyear Costco All Weather Mats and tonight will be buying some 2016 4R Trail Edition wheels and tires.
 
This past Saturday I went and picked up my 2000 4R with 97k, supercharger and e-locker. Been learning a lot about these cars and will post an official intro/build thread once I am able too.



For now, the only thing I've done is take her home, buy some Goodyear Costco All Weather Mats and tonight will be buying some 2016 4R Trail Edition wheels and tires.



Only 97k with a SC? She's a gem.


2002 T4R 3" Rough Country suspension lift, K&N intake, Method Race wheels, 33" Mickey Thompson Mud Terrain, Savage off-road front winch bumper, Warn 9000lb winch, CBI ditch light brackets, KC ditch lights.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top