What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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theesotericone
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Got an email from Savage about some skids shipping. Then went and bombed some dirt roads to celebrate. lol
nail bender
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I put a coat of wax on the paint and cleaned the chrome bumpers with chrome polish. the stuff the highway dept. puts on the road to melt ice and snow or keep things from freezing is nasty. it pits chrome or aluminum and causes rust on bare metal like paint chips very fast. I thought it cant hurt to have things cleaned up before winter really gets here
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
LBJ, LCA bushings, and Tacoma manual hubs.
Road Bull
Senior Member
Two coats so far of Rust-Oleum Hammered black over about 3 coats of self etching primer for my Stubbs HD-SKO sliders. I also got a notification from UPS that my Savage cobo skids will be here Friday!! Whoo hoo! Armor is on the way. Now I just need to decide on color for the skids. The hammered finishes look pretty good so I will probably stay with that. But, I might go with a hammered silver for my skids. I am still working it out in my head.
Finally got her lifted and just in time.
Got her up in the air just in time to take her on some snowy roads.
Tundra 5100 (2nd notch) with Toytec coils up front.
LC 7.5/8 wraps (without internal bumpstops) and tokico blacks out back.
265/75/16 Wild Country XTX.
This took me approx 3-4 hellish weeks. I work full-time, plus some, and go to school almost full-time, so I worked on it an hour here and an hour there. I think all parts were factory parts and here in Ohio, they did NOT want to come off. I ended up cutting off most bolts, tie rods, and sway links. snapped spome LBJ bolts so ended up having to take off the entire spindle and doing UBJ when I wasn't planning. All in all, was still fun and would do it all over again.
I had a blown rear shock since I bought it a year ago so now it currently rides like a dream.
Got her up in the air just in time to take her on some snowy roads.
Tundra 5100 (2nd notch) with Toytec coils up front.
LC 7.5/8 wraps (without internal bumpstops) and tokico blacks out back.
265/75/16 Wild Country XTX.
This took me approx 3-4 hellish weeks. I work full-time, plus some, and go to school almost full-time, so I worked on it an hour here and an hour there. I think all parts were factory parts and here in Ohio, they did NOT want to come off. I ended up cutting off most bolts, tie rods, and sway links. snapped spome LBJ bolts so ended up having to take off the entire spindle and doing UBJ when I wasn't planning. All in all, was still fun and would do it all over again.
I had a blown rear shock since I bought it a year ago so now it currently rides like a dream.
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4yogger
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Way to handle business man, I have a similar schedule but lack your dedication. Nice work!
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Thanks. It's tough for sure, especially for Engineering. Also have another car and 3 bikes so I spend a good deal of time just upkeeping.
rudogg760
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Experienced snowmageddon here in Oregon [emoji23]
Took a pic while grabbin some RedLine for the rear diff-
jeeez i love this look.
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
put studded tires on all 4. while I love my KO'2s, and they eat up snow, they don't do so good on ice on steep hills
currently sitting on 4 feet of snow, with roads that do elevation changes of near 300 feet in a half mile, up and down either way out our entrance or exit roads, out of the park where I work and live
currently sitting on 4 feet of snow, with roads that do elevation changes of near 300 feet in a half mile, up and down either way out our entrance or exit roads, out of the park where I work and live
Road Bull
Senior Member
Finishing touches on my Stubbs HD-SKO sliders. It was a bit of a PITA due to it raining over the last few days. That, and I had a couple wheel studs replaced. Discount Tire cross threaded a couple lugstands. One snapped off, the other was damaged, shortened, then cleaned up a little. The job didn't look all that difficult, but it was more about holden them accountable for the issue.
I can't wait to get the sliders welded on. Which leads me to a question.
For those of you who rattle canned your armor, how often do you touch it up? Is it difficult to get them cleaned up and painted after they are welded to the frame. I imagine that it is fairly straightforward. Clean, sand, primer, paint. But I see a few folks that have em tucked up really close. I imagine that using them as a step wears em down a bit faster too.
I can't wait to get the sliders welded on. Which leads me to a question.
For those of you who rattle canned your armor, how often do you touch it up? Is it difficult to get them cleaned up and painted after they are welded to the frame. I imagine that it is fairly straightforward. Clean, sand, primer, paint. But I see a few folks that have em tucked up really close. I imagine that using them as a step wears em down a bit faster too.
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reelamin
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No question pure snow tires are far superior then mud or all season. Happy with my KO2's, but they are not even close to Blizzak on snow and ice.
hour
New member
Freaking fiasco on Sunday.
I had blown my alternator fuse on Saturday in replacing my failed CS144 alternator and redoing my big 3+ upgrade with 2 and 4 gauge welding wire instead of uncooperative 2 gauge battery cable from Advance.
The wiring is so nice now, and the mil spec battery terminals and negative quick disconnect are a huge improvement. I'm just an idiot and a hot wire jiggled on to the alternator housing when I excitedly fired her up.
If you ever blow one of these, good luck. I couldn't find any solid guides for removing the inner part of the fuse box to get to the bolt that goes through the fuse. I knew I had to press in some clips and snip a zip tie, but no matter what I did she wouldn't budge.
Ended up just mangling the entire box, destroying all of the brittle clips, and prying it out just enough to get to the bolt. Held together with Gorilla tape now and I hope to never have to do that again... but I finally have clean and consistent charging to my battery now. Feels good man.
I had blown my alternator fuse on Saturday in replacing my failed CS144 alternator and redoing my big 3+ upgrade with 2 and 4 gauge welding wire instead of uncooperative 2 gauge battery cable from Advance.
The wiring is so nice now, and the mil spec battery terminals and negative quick disconnect are a huge improvement. I'm just an idiot and a hot wire jiggled on to the alternator housing when I excitedly fired her up.
If you ever blow one of these, good luck. I couldn't find any solid guides for removing the inner part of the fuse box to get to the bolt that goes through the fuse. I knew I had to press in some clips and snip a zip tie, but no matter what I did she wouldn't budge.
Ended up just mangling the entire box, destroying all of the brittle clips, and prying it out just enough to get to the bolt. Held together with Gorilla tape now and I hope to never have to do that again... but I finally have clean and consistent charging to my battery now. Feels good man.
Oneluv13T4R
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Oneluv13T4R
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Rwhockey29
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anyone had any luck with these LED headlight kits?
H4 LED Headlight Kit | H4 LED Foglight Upgrade
or
H4 Philips X-treme Ultinon LED Bulb | 12953BWX2
the PO of my truck installed some HID's, but they must be low quality because the light output sucks, i can hardly see anything. looking for other options. i would like to say i trust the philips brand better just because of the name, but the other kit is half the price and seems to have a plug-n-play kit which im not sure the phillips bulb needs?
H4 LED Headlight Kit | H4 LED Foglight Upgrade
or
H4 Philips X-treme Ultinon LED Bulb | 12953BWX2
the PO of my truck installed some HID's, but they must be low quality because the light output sucks, i can hardly see anything. looking for other options. i would like to say i trust the philips brand better just because of the name, but the other kit is half the price and seems to have a plug-n-play kit which im not sure the phillips bulb needs?
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