What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Tire carrier is mostly painted today. Tomorrow I can mount and get my license plate relocated. I will post some pics in a few in my build thread.
 
this


i honestly, dont know how people say it clears the cbi light brackets but IT TOUCHES more then what people say. At least for me. The gaps between the fender and the snorkel are very very small and i think thats one of the reason why i have such a tight tolerance. I made it work and it looks good. I wish it was a better fit all around. But no one makes a "SNORKEL FOR OUR VEHICLE!!" so yeah. And at least ill know that if i cross a deep puddle, or get stuck in something deep that i will be safer then the stock set up. After all, its only a fender. Easily replaced. And i refuse to drill into my pillar. So 3M double sided sticky is what i am using. The snorkel lines up almost perfectly with the window pillar so there is barley any force pushing back the snorkel from the pillar. Which is good

has anyone removed their antenna and figured something to close the hole up?
 
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Thursday I was on my way to a friends house and could smell axle oil. When I got to his house I felt the axle tube and the driver side was pretty dang hot. Friday I tore into it to find this on the axle.....
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I got frustrated and took both axle shafts to the shop, they quoted me $40 a side to remove and replace wheel bearings. Only had to buy one tone ring but the sensor on that side is gone. Hopefully I can get everything back in on Monday.


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Picked up a little "bolt on" part! Can't wait to get this installed and wired up!
 

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Can you give any details? 199mm or 2xxmm?

2000 model. It went pretty much like the writeup except the actuator rod on the top of the exterior door handle refused to come off even with the clip released. I found another thread that said to get a really big screwdriver and pry it off- which I did. Doing that broke the retainer clip but a tie wrap seems to work just as well.

And I broke three door panel retainer clips. To be expected, I suppose - the truck is old enough that all of those clips are really brittle. No big deal, they're cheap.

Door check is super easy - you get to it by removing the door speaker.
 
Long travel!

I think my front end is done... aside from those pesky axle things

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Was doing some under carriage cleaning and realized my 99 rear coils have changed status from an "upgrade" to a "downgrade"
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I got some 7.5 wraps I'm going to be getting rid of soon. If you're interested.
 
I think my front end is done... aside from those pesky axle things

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Damn that is sexy
 
The Runner has me down... the PO installed a fancy Sony double DIN deck.. I discovered that of my 4 speakers, all 4 of them are blown. So it's minor, but just another thing.

Was doing some cleanup with the wire wheel today and discovered that in the past 24 hours I now have a leaking axle seal... that one kicks my ass a bit!

Time to go shopping it seems!
 
What's the details on the calipers and rotors you used?

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These are the 13WL calipers. I got the calipers from RockAuto semi-loaded about $115 including $65 core, so should be about $50 each when returned.
CENTRIC 14144232 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2039910&jsn=3
CENTRIC 14144231 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2039054&cc=1431003&jsn=1&jsn=1

I got the rotors from BrakeMotive on Ebay for $100 for the set including pads, but I just looked up the link to copy it and they're going for $89 for a spring sale. They specifically say that these rotors go with the 13WL caliper casting. I've mentioned before that my buddy swears by these rotors, and so far they seem pretty nice, but I'm comparing to having non-working calipers.
FRONT DRILL SLOT BRAKE ROTORS +CERAMIC PADS 2000 2001 2002 - 2006 Toyota Tundra | eBay

Hard brake lines to the calipers were really hard to find for me, so here are the part numbers and links. Got them for like $6 each.
Part No.: 47314-35330 TUBE, FR BRAKE, NO.4 - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~tube~front~brake~no~4~47314-35330.html
Part No.: 47316-35250 TUBE, FR BRAKE, NO.6 - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~tube~front~brake~no~6~47316-35250.html
 
These are the 13WL calipers. I got the calipers from RockAuto semi-loaded about $115 including $65 core, so should be about $50 each when returned.
CENTRIC14144232 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2039910&jsn=3
CENTRIC14144231 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2039054&cc=1431003&jsn=1&jsn=1

I got the rotors from BrakeMotive on Ebay for $100 for the set including pads, but I just looked up the link to copy it and they're going for $89 for a spring sale. They specifically say that these rotors go with the 13WL caliper casting. I've mentioned before that my buddy swears by these rotors, and so far they seem pretty nice, but I'm comparing to having non-working calipers.
FRONT DRILL SLOT BRAKE ROTORS +CERAMIC PADS 2000 2001 2002 - 2006 Toyota Tundra | eBay

Hard brake lines to the calipers were really hard to find for me, so here are the part numbers and links. Got them for like $6 each.
Part No.: 47314-35330 TUBE, FR BRAKE, NO.4 - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~tube~front~brake~no~4~47314-35330.html
Part No.: 47316-35250 TUBE, FR BRAKE, NO.6 - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~tube~front~brake~no~6~47316-35250.html
Excellent info, thanks for taking the time to share.

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Went to the Citrus Wildlife Management area for the X.Venture Rally yesterday.
Had a blast and can't wait to get out again :guitar2:
 

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Haha well my tranny gone at 168k! Gunna cost me 3500 including the core for a reman at my local toyota dealership. :nono: There goes my funds for my cbi rear bumper..
[MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION]

What do you feel caused this? Improper maintance? No after market cooler and toasted it? At 125k I did my swap and replaced/flushed all my oil as paranoid and also for upcoming trips. By-passed it and keep a super close eye on the temps and make sure I shift when needed, 4wd/4Lo and everything. I hate seeing this happen as I have zero money to repair it and its my Daily. I just did my oil change today was at 5K miles (mainly did it for the 9 months the oils in). Spent a few extra dollars on different oil and filter than previous to see if it makes a difference. Have close to 5k miles in trips planned in the next 3 months so come September, oil change again, lol.


But if you could PLEASE help out and let me know what was the cause or possible cause I would appreciate it. Is the 3500 a rebuild, or new? Oh and since i'm in the PNW if your having it done in Portland/Salem area let me know what you feel about the results encause some of us need it to :)
 
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