What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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I spent 3 hours getting the driver grab handle off so I could run a handsfree microphone wire behind the trim. 3 hours. Tried a skrewdriver, nope. Then a drill, nope. Then an impact driver which started to strip it, nope. Then an impact skrewdriver, nope. Heads were stripped at this point so started drilling them out. The top one I half way drilled then got out with my crappy kobalt bolt extractor bits. Second one obstructed by the steering wheel took forever. Tried the same thing but couldnt get the extractor to bite. Snapped a few drill bits which dissapeared in to the body. Then I couldnt get the remains of the bolt out, lost my patience at this point and smashed it through with a skrewdriver and hammer. I hope the bits of metal arent going to rattle around. I think they should fall out the bottom of where the mudguard attaches.
 
Not today but recently.

Picked up a set of 16x8 Level 8 Mk6 wheels during Discount Tire's July 4th sale and had them mounted last week. Since I've been swamped with a new job and other car projects lately the shop also changed the front/rear diff and t-case oil and fixed an exhaust leak for a reasonable price.

Also right after getting the wheels done the truck went into the body shop to have the windshield frame rust repaired. At some point the windshield was replaced and they didn't use any sealant which caused significant rust that wasn't visible but had rusted through to the interior. Since the rest of the truck is clean I bit the bullet and ended up spending $850 for the repair and a new windshield. Not awful but still a little salty to spend on an old rig.

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Hopefully in the next few weekends I'll have time to toss the Tundra upgrade on along with some braided front lines.

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1999 T4R, 2wd. Replaced 6 fuel injectors (reman from Five'O'). Replaced battery with an Optima 800 CCA size 34R. I just purchased this truck last week. It was running extremely rough due to a cyl 4 misfire (P0304 code). The fuel injector has an open circuit, so I replaced all of them. Toyota replaced #3 injector about a month ago and owner did not want to pay for #4 replacement ($980 ??!!!). I have ordered a new AIC valve. Plan to send out the 5 injectors to be rebuilt and cleaned to keep as spares. As soon as the control valve arrives, I will do a compression test and replace spark plugsand clean the MAF sensor & throttle body. Should I crimp the coolant lines to throttle body before removal? Or can I just plug the hoses with something? I want to remove the throttle body to clean it.
 
I spent 3 hours getting the driver grab handle off so I could run a handsfree microphone wire behind the trim. 3 hours. Tried a skrewdriver, nope. Then a drill, nope. Then an impact driver which started to strip it, nope. Then an impact skrewdriver, nope. Heads were stripped at this point so started drilling them out. The top one I half way drilled then got out with my crappy kobalt bolt extractor bits. Second one obstructed by the steering wheel took forever. Tried the same thing but couldnt get the extractor to bite. Snapped a few drill bits which dissapeared in to the body. Then I couldnt get the remains of the bolt out, lost my patience at this point and smashed it through with a skrewdriver and hammer. I hope the bits of metal arent going to rattle around. I think they should fall out the bottom of where the mudguard attaches.

I feel your pain. I had to go through that when I decided to run the cable for my scan gauge through there (I mounted my SG to the ceiling and mounted it with double sided tape). Do yourself a favor and don't put lock tight on it when you reinstall it!
 
1999 T4R, 2wd. Replaced 6 fuel injectors (reman from Five'O'). Replaced battery with an Optima 800 CCA size 34R. I just purchased this truck last week. It was running extremely rough due to a cyl 4 misfire (P0304 code). The fuel injector has an open circuit, so I replaced all of them. Toyota replaced #3 injector about a month ago and owner did not want to pay for #4 replacement ($980 ??!!!). I have ordered a new AIC valve. Plan to send out the 5 injectors to be rebuilt and cleaned to keep as spares. As soon as the control valve arrives, I will do a compression test and replace spark plugsand clean the MAF sensor & throttle body. Should I crimp the coolant lines to throttle body before removal? Or can I just plug the hoses with something? I want to remove the throttle body to clean it.
Where did you get your injectors? I have been thinking about replacing mine but O'Reilly's wants $160 per injector!
 
Yesterday I brought my 97 T4R into my local dealer to look at the vehicle as per the 20A Safety Recall. They said I needed the two following parts:
04001-45135 (Bumper Kit)
04001-45435 (Rear Coil Kit)
Both would be covered and installed as per the recall.

I find out today that the parts have been discontinued (wtf?) and that they can't get them. So it looks like I'm SOL.

The Recall is still active and not expired in their system. So I'm on the phone w/ Toyota corporate.

Has anyone else ran into this as part of that recall and if so, what did you do to get it all fixed?
 
I didnt do anything to my 3rd gen today because I don't own one yet (keyword yet) but and hoping to buy one in the next few months! Maybe my next comment on this post will be that I bought a 3rd gen!:thumb3:
 
1999 T4R, 2wd. Replaced 6 fuel injectors (reman from Five'O'). Replaced battery with an Optima 800 CCA size 34R. I just purchased this truck last week. It was running extremely rough due to a cyl 4 misfire (P0304 code). The fuel injector has an open circuit, so I replaced all of them. Toyota replaced #3 injector about a month ago and owner did not want to pay for #4 replacement ($980 ??!!!). I have ordered a new AIC valve. Plan to send out the 5 injectors to be rebuilt and cleaned to keep as spares. As soon as the control valve arrives, I will do a compression test and replace spark plugsand clean the MAF sensor & throttle body. Should I crimp the coolant lines to throttle body before removal? Or can I just plug the hoses with something? I want to remove the throttle body to clean it.
Remove the coolant lines from the IAC and plug with whatever is handy; I used 2 wire nuts. I cleaned mine but ended up replacing it after all.

Sounds like you're on the right track. Good luck!

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
Powerstop Z36 Tundra Brake Upgrade

Wasn't impressed with the TBU, so I upped the ante to the Powerstop kit. Much better.

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Full build below in signature line.
 
Not today but recently.

Picked up a set of 16x8 Level 8 Mk6 wheels during Discount Tire's July 4th sale and had them mounted last week. Since I've been swamped with a new job and other car projects lately the shop also changed the front/rear diff and t-case oil and fixed an exhaust leak for a reasonable price.

Also right after getting the wheels done the truck went into the body shop to have the windshield frame rust repaired. At some point the windshield was replaced and they didn't use any sealant which caused significant rust that wasn't visible but had rusted through to the interior. Since the rest of the truck is clean I bit the bullet and ended up spending $850 for the repair and a new windshield. Not awful but still a little salty to spend on an old rig.

bUpQpy8h.jpg



Hopefully in the next few weekends I'll have time to toss the Tundra upgrade on along with some braided front lines.

jrOVDgqm.jpg

If you decide you don't like those Level 8 logos on the wheels a little nail polish remover will take them right off without harming the wheel finish.
 
Not today but recently.

Picked up a set of 16x8 Level 8 Mk6 wheels during Discount Tire's July 4th sale and had them mounted last week. Since I've been swamped with a new job and other car projects lately the shop also changed the front/rear diff and t-case oil and fixed an exhaust leak for a reasonable price.

Also right after getting the wheels done the truck went into the body shop to have the windshield frame rust repaired. At some point the windshield was replaced and they didn't use any sealant which caused significant rust that wasn't visible but had rusted through to the interior. Since the rest of the truck is clean I bit the bullet and ended up spending $850 for the repair and a new windshield. Not awful but still a little salty to spend on an old rig.

bUpQpy8h.jpg

I saw that picture and instinctual first impressions was man those wheels look good. Then I saw they are Level 8, maybe I should pick up a set. What offset is good for 3rd gens? I will put on 265/70 R17. Maybe an inch or 2 or lift
 
I flushed the brake fluid on my 99 SR5. The rear bleeder valves didn't have nipples and were clogged with trail and road muck. I sprayed them with brake clean and probed the opening. Still clogged. Opened one rear bleeder at a time and attached a line going into a large bottle and pressed the brake pedal hard and the muck plug was cleared. After flushing was complete, I ordered a pack of 25 nipples from Amazon.
 
Been wheeling a lot lately. Exploring small areas. In NJ it's mostly dirt,mud,water and mudy/rocky/clay hills.

My friend did a SAS swap on a 04 s10. I helped him with small stuff. Long story short, we finished everything. Went to the woods, hour in. dana30, blew the gears in the front. Turns out, he needs a different carrier to run different gear ration. Fixed that in few days. Few days ago, we went back to another spot. Hour in, he is trying to go up, what "looked like a small hill form the top lol". Blew the rear spider gears, and broke front axle ):. We were at the bottom of a valley. Only way out of the woods was up long and difficult hill climbs. So, lucky him. I have a winch, hi lift jack, 2 recovery straps, 2 tree saver straps, and 4 TRED pads. Long story short, we got him up and out of the woods. My 4runner towed him out nice and slowly :). What a day! Few photos of my truck, unfortunately i did not have time to take photos while we were pulling him up the hill. What does it have to do with this thread? Well I cleaned my truck hahaha and re did fluid film on the frame.

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Running wheel spacers only in the rear.
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smittybilt x2o great winch.
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2 gas cans, 4 tred pads.
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Rather then buying a mount for the pads, which you can only mount 1 set on it. I Tapped the hole slightly bigger, so I could fit a lock through all the pads and have it locked to the roof rack. Gas cans are locked also.
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Fluid Film the whole frame, and back side also, cleaned the rear shock tower.
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There she is, nice and clean :)
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