ltsr
New member
this sounds about right. Assuming you got 265/75 KO2 load E, like the rest of us. I can squeeze about 250 until I fill up. I did some recent maintenance like you and went from 15.5 to 18mpg.
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
- Thread starter pin8246
- Start date
- Status
this sounds about right. Assuming you got 265/75 KO2 load E, like the rest of us. I can squeeze about 250 until I fill up. I did some recent maintenance like you and went from 15.5 to 18mpg.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Pictures of scratched ball before install and links to failures of that exact part at 8k miles aren't enough? Ok...
-Charlie
octanejunkie
Elite Member
It's cheap insurance for a part I don't want to have to touch for 100K miles, plus I'll gladly spend for OEM when life/safety is involved - especially my passenger's and the other drivers on the road, if not my own.
MN4runnerman
Senior Member
Laughed at it because the tailpipe rusted right at the muffler and I yanked it out while I was on my lunch break. Then went back to work and ordered it.
theesotericone
New member
How about I just link those two posts in the Savage thread? I told you I'm lazy. lol
One day I'll get some photo's in the mountains, with the correct lighting, with a real camera, taken by a real photographer. Until then my crappy cell phone shots will have to do.
d0nkeyxpunch
New member
Replaced the passenger side cv axle seal. Found out that my air freshener was the perfect size for it. Made it super easy. Lol 
Last edited:
4RunnerRookie
New member
2002 3rd generation help in utah (801)
All,
Larry H Miller has already ripped me off a few times. I am looking for a mechanics or anyone in Utah that can help me restore a few things on my 2002 SR5. I would rather pay someone under the table in cash/help/learn then keep dropping thousands at the Toyota dealership. I realize this was a stupid move in the first place but I got impatient and pulled the trigger.
Please reach out to me or point me in the right direction. I would truly appreciate any and all help! Thank you all, stay well!
text 801-440-8562
All,
Larry H Miller has already ripped me off a few times. I am looking for a mechanics or anyone in Utah that can help me restore a few things on my 2002 SR5. I would rather pay someone under the table in cash/help/learn then keep dropping thousands at the Toyota dealership. I realize this was a stupid move in the first place but I got impatient and pulled the trigger.
Please reach out to me or point me in the right direction. I would truly appreciate any and all help! Thank you all, stay well!
text 801-440-8562
Road Bull
Senior Member
Hahaha... fair enough.
MarkamisPrime
New member
What did you do to your 3rd gen today?
The ones he pictured with scratches are raybestos and those are garbage
I've never been able to move any moog balljoint by hand EVER especially new out of the box.
I mean to each his own but my moogs came with the same yellow grease he says is "better"
I always regrease my stuff with my own grease never run whatever comes with the ball joints or tie rods etc.
I mean if a ball joint wants to give it's going to give some just hold out longer than others
I check my suspension after every wheeling trip and every rotation and get an alignment every month, sometimes twice a month.
I'm sure others have had there issues but I'm yet to have a failure. (Knock on wood)
I have however had OE ball joints go out on two of my customers and that was with me telling them to go with moog but they read on here ALWAYS go OE and well they run moog now.
I used to do suspension work for a living and I've gone through every brand/manufacturer of ball joint out there. When guys are running 20x12 and 24x14 wheels you need something that's going to hold up to all that extra leverage
But yeah to each his own.
The ones he pictured with scratches are raybestos and those are garbage
I've never been able to move any moog balljoint by hand EVER especially new out of the box.
I mean to each his own but my moogs came with the same yellow grease he says is "better"
I always regrease my stuff with my own grease never run whatever comes with the ball joints or tie rods etc.
I mean if a ball joint wants to give it's going to give some just hold out longer than others
I check my suspension after every wheeling trip and every rotation and get an alignment every month, sometimes twice a month.
I'm sure others have had there issues but I'm yet to have a failure. (Knock on wood)
I have however had OE ball joints go out on two of my customers and that was with me telling them to go with moog but they read on here ALWAYS go OE and well they run moog now.
I used to do suspension work for a living and I've gone through every brand/manufacturer of ball joint out there. When guys are running 20x12 and 24x14 wheels you need something that's going to hold up to all that extra leverage
But yeah to each his own.
Wikano
New member
Over the weekend I replaced my Aisin pressure plate and oem flywheel with the Aisin CTX 107, clutch disk, and new flywheel. I managed to remove everything without a trans jack or crushing myself :banana:
AISIN GENUINE CLUTCH KIT+HD FLYWHEEL TOYOTA 4RUNNER SUV T100 TACOMA 2.7L 4CYL | eBay
Ctx 107 pressure plate has a higher clamping force (used in V6), which feels much better than the stock specs. I would image that the 25% increase in clamping force makes my re-gear to 4.30 and larger tires more manageable for the clutch with minimal petal strain.
AISIN GENUINE CLUTCH KIT+HD FLYWHEEL TOYOTA 4RUNNER SUV T100 TACOMA 2.7L 4CYL | eBay
Ctx 107 pressure plate has a higher clamping force (used in V6), which feels much better than the stock specs. I would image that the 25% increase in clamping force makes my re-gear to 4.30 and larger tires more manageable for the clutch with minimal petal strain.
the walrus
New member
rkntoy
New member
What is your center of axle to wheel well measurement in the back with the spare mounted up? Looking at switching springs and still can't decide between the 861 and Superflex springs after 4 hours of reading last night.
Diezel
New member
I dont' really put a lot of faith behind blind statements like this:
Grease color, and viscosity, is not much of an indicator of quality. Some of the best greases I have ever used looked like crap and smelt like death.
Unless it specifically says Lithium (or whatever) grease, don't ever bet on it's color to tell you the true contents.
MarkamisPrime has the best answer here to this. "Regrease the joint". The companies who produce those joints, are NOT in business to provide you with a lifetime part. As it wouldn't keep them in business. So of course they are going to use whatever grease (and components) that give them a decent service life, and most importantly the highest revenue.
Don't rely on other people for your own ass. Regrease the joints you install. And if they don't have the provisions to do so. Then vote with your wallet and take your business elsewhere.
nc-grayson
Member
y'all just let the man buy his crap parts and smile when they need replacing in 12 months 
johnbyebye
New member
MarkamisPrime
New member
What did you do to your 3rd gen today?
I've had moogs in my 05 f250 for 100k miles and it's lifted on 35s 20x12s 6 years and going strong
Also have had moogs in my 94 explorer lifted 6in on 15x10s and 33s and I beat the crap out of this truck have had the ball joints in there since I lifted it 3 years ago
My cousin has had his in his 98 taco for 2 years he is also toytec lifted on 32s
And ford twin I beam is famous for blowing out ball joints as your camber/caster adjustment is directly on the upper ball joint
I'm not trying to sell anyone anything or bad mouth OE ball joints or persuade anyone one way or the other.
I'm just sharing my thoughts and experiences.
But like I said I have a lot of experience with other parts/brands and these have yet to let me down
In any rig.
y'all just let the man buy his crap parts and smile when they need replacing in 12 months
I've had moogs in my 05 f250 for 100k miles and it's lifted on 35s 20x12s 6 years and going strong
Also have had moogs in my 94 explorer lifted 6in on 15x10s and 33s and I beat the crap out of this truck have had the ball joints in there since I lifted it 3 years ago
My cousin has had his in his 98 taco for 2 years he is also toytec lifted on 32s
And ford twin I beam is famous for blowing out ball joints as your camber/caster adjustment is directly on the upper ball joint
I'm not trying to sell anyone anything or bad mouth OE ball joints or persuade anyone one way or the other.
I'm just sharing my thoughts and experiences.
But like I said I have a lot of experience with other parts/brands and these have yet to let me down
In any rig.
Last edited:
jmferg
New member
Not trashing moog in general. Normally they are an excellent oem replacement. However their design in our trucks seems to be a 50/50 for premature failure.
"Google 3rd gen 4 runner moog LBJ"
Click the links and how these were moog balljoints with very low miles that unexpectedly failed. Is a $40 difference worth it for an unexpected failure that could end you or your loved ones lives?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
MarkamisPrime
New member
Not trashing moog in general. Normally they are an excellent oem replacement. However their design in our trucks seems to be a 50/50 for premature failure.
"Google 3rd gen 4 runner moog LBJ"
Click the links and how these were moog balljoints with very low miles that unexpectedly failed. Is a $40 difference worth it for an unexpected failure that could end you or your loved ones lives?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you google 4Runner lower ball joint the same pictures come up
OE ball joints break all the time
As to why people are so paranoid about LBJs on our trucks
Like I said before if it wants to go it's going to go some just last longer than others
I'm not going to loose sleep over the fact that I could happen
cause fact of the matter is it could happen with any ball joint.
And I get all my parts wholesale so price doesn't matter
- Status
Similar threads
