What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[habanero]

Paint was chipping so a little refresh:

It appears as though you are missing 4 of your bumper mounting bolts!

Fixed it....the hubby's bright idea and work, can't take any credit on this one:
My 96 4Runner with a couple of pirated '99 brackets:

The bumper is much more solid now. I also installed poly body mounts. Had already done the rears so went to Roger Brown for the rest.

 

[DavidH.]

I replaced my clutch master and slave cylinders finally!

Occasionally my clutch pedal would go to the floor with no resistance and I couldn't get in gear. I'd have to kind of pump the pedal once or twice to shift. This got progressively worse lately to the point I could barely take off without stalling. Thank god for the clutch cancel start button. A couple times it'd stall and die so I would put it in first and then press the button and use the starter to take off in first. My fluid levels were unchanged and I had no leakage anywhere so I decided I must be losing a seal in the master. I've read of the troubles some had trying to bleed the parts store brands so I ordered OEM Aisin parts off Amazon:

Aisin CMT-093 Clutch Master Cylinder
Aisin CRT-014 Clutch Slave Cylinder

I used a basting syringe to pull as much brake fluid out of the reservoir and stuck a rag under the slave before removing the hydraulic line to catch the little remaining fluid.

It was a little tight getting to the master but not too bad. I didn't bother bench bleeding before installing. I coerced my wife into working the clutch pedal while I opened and closed the bleeder on the slave and it only took a few pumps before new fluid was coming through and then a few more to get rid of air bubbles. Super easy to bleed. It's shifting like new now, better than it ever has since I bought it 3 or so years ago.

 

[Dale Bob]

Frame repair

I just got the truck back after a local race shop welded in a couple of patches into the frame. Both sides right in front of the rear lower control arm mounts. $600.00. They also installed one rear control arm I supplied. Frame still may need work in the future but Okay for now. Picked up 4 used tires at the salvage yard as the fronts had cords showing. This is a new truck to me and my first 4Runner. Now on to maintenance that has been ignored for a long time. Downstream 02 sensor should be here tomorrow. Next up a timing belt and water pump. Where is everybody shopping for a timing belt kit these days?

 

[ZoneOne]

Did the cup holder mod for my 97. Taken from a 2000 at a salvage yard.

Tips. Measure twice. Cut once. I even cut less than what I measured/traced to ensure I could cut again if needed. I used a dremel for trimming the dash.

I took my time at cutting the electric tape and ensuring the rear window, etc button and the security button made it to the driver side under the steering wheel. There's enough length in the wires to accomplish his if you remove the electrical tape high enough up the dash.

If anyone is doing this mod in the future feel free to contact me.

I'm not a car guru and it took me about 3 hours and 4 beers.

Very happy with the setup.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[3rdworldman]

Slowed/Stopped Power Steering leak on my rusty 1999 SR5

Just got my friend's 1999 SR5 2 weeks ago and the slow PS leak had developed into a bottle a day habit. After an hour of pain & suffering I managed to get some rescue tape around the offending leak & hose clamped it. Crossing fingers ;-)
While down there noticed my (?) anti-sway bar had a mashed bushing...oh well no big deal...until I noticed the other side had NO bushing nor bracket! Explains the jumpy steering though. Adding up the (-) and hoping the (+) wins as I'd love to keep it!

 

[Mark_BC]

Completed the swap-your-bad-axle-with-another-one-that-hopefully-isn't-bad-but-has-an-elocker mod today. It took about 15 hours to do it, everything was straightforward, just lots of steps that take a while. I got hung up on the brake line swap and bleeding because I had a shitty flare wrench that was too big. I instead I found my Harbor Freight flare nut head and that worked great.

Took it out for a spin and everything looks good. Got it up to full speed and it was super quiet down the highway, not used to that with the hum I had before. Seemed to handle better too but maybe that was just psychological form it being quiet. That old bearing was really getting bad. My only concern now is blowing an axle seal on the trip to Californ-eye-ay next week.

 

[Kanoe]

Installed new Bilstein shocks from ToyTec for my Ultimate lift. They are not standard 5100s since they direct thread the coil over lower adjustments on them. Also replaced my original bump stops with Wheeler's Offroad stops. They are a bit shorter so I am going to do some travel checks and see if I need to put in a spacer for them.

Next up will be putting on my RTT and loading fridge to adjust my coils to a little less than level before getting an alignment on Tuesday.

Yup, I'm gonna quote the pic on this one.

Not to question anyone's work, but are those upper shock mounts orientated the correct way? It would seem to me that the strut would flex side to side in and out with the working of the suspension. The pic makes it look like it is set up to flex front and back which I don't think would happen.

Excuse the question if everything is correct.

 

[Mark_BC]

Just got my friend's 1999 SR5 2 weeks ago and the slow PS leak had developed into a bottle a day habit. After an hour of pain & suffering I managed to get some rescue tape around the offending leak & hose clamped it. Crossing fingers ;-)
While down there noticed my (?) anti-sway bar had a mashed bushing...oh well no big deal...until I noticed the other side had NO bushing nor bracket! Explains the jumpy steering though. Adding up the (-) and hoping the (+) wins as I'd love to keep it!

Yeah u got some serious rust issues there!!! That thing will need a serious checkout to make sure it's safe. Post photos of the frame rails, if they are rusted away. Also I'd bet the rear diff is leaking through the rusted rear casing.

Kudos for taking on a project but I've had enough of rust with my current rig to last me the rest of my life, which is nowhere near that bad.

 

[calnhob]

Did the LBJ replacement on a '97 w/ 215K miles. Stock OEM ones are still in excellent shape as far as I can tell. No play at the joints.

Got a pair for sale now of anyone is interested.


Fuel filter, old one was definitely dirty. Looks original.

Brake flush to help with squishy brakes but it didn't help. Just bought some front & rear SS brakes lines, hoping that will help. If not, next step might be the Tundra swap. Don't know if the 199mm or 231mm is the way to go. I won't tow anything too heavy.

 

[calnhob]

Did the cup holder mod for my 97. Taken from a 2000 at a salvage yard.

Tips. Measure twice. Cut once. I even cut less than what I measured/traced to ensure I could cut again if needed. I used a dremel for trimming the dash.

I took my time at cutting the electric tape and ensuring the rear window, etc button and the security button made it to the driver side under the steering wheel. There's enough length in the wires to accomplish his if you remove the electrical tape high enough up the dash.

If anyone is doing this mod in the future feel free to contact me.

I'm not a car guru and it took me about 3 hours and 4 beers.

Very happy with the setup.

Definitely on the list once I find a center console. It probably took 3 hrs because of the 4 beers.

 

[tx_shooter]

Yup, I'm gonna quote the pic on this one.

Not to question anyone's work, but are those upper shock mounts orientated the correct way? It would seem to me that the strut would flex side to side in and out with the working of the suspension. The pic makes it look like it is set up to flex front and back which I don't think would happen.

Excuse the question if everything is correct.

No worries - the way the top is setup is the way it was for the previous 100,000 miles and the way ToyTec recommended. So I put it back together the same way.

 

[3rdworldman]

Yeah u got some serious rust issues there!!! That thing will need a serious checkout to make sure it's safe. Post photos of the frame rails, if they are rusted away. Also I'd bet the rear diff is leaking through the rusted rear casing.

Kudos for taking on a project but I've had enough of rust with my current rig to last me the rest of my life, which is nowhere near that bad.

Thanks for your reply! I will certainly be doing a thorough inspection of the undercarriage is soon as I'm able. With the driver side floor board being completely rusted out it certainly has me worried :-/ I really, really want to make this truck work because it has been a great truck over the years and I have some sentimental attachment to it. But I also don't have an endless supply of money to rebuild it from the ground up you know? Oh when I get some undercarriage pictures where is the best place to post them? I'm a newbie as you can tell ;-) thanks again cheers!

 

[RunnerLimited]

Did the LBJ replacement on a '97 w/ 215K miles. Stock OEM ones are still in excellent shape as far as I can tell. No play at the joints.

Got a pair for sale now of anyone is interested.


Fuel filter, old one was definitely dirty. Looks original.

Brake flush to help with squishy brakes but it didn't help. Just bought some front & rear SS brakes lines, hoping that will help. If not, next step might be the Tundra swap. Don't know if the 199mm or 231mm is the way to go. I won't tow anything too heavy.

Willing to ship to Canada for those LBJs? looking to do mine soon

 

[ZoneOne]

Definitely on the list once I find a center console. It probably took 3 hrs because of the 4 beers.

Unless you are a mechanic and experienced I don't think it's possible to do faster than 2hrs. Beer is required though.

Just takes time getting it all done and ensuring the wires fit within the dash.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[repo]

Got one of these but parts are missing, sending it back.

Greased the prop shafts.

Installed this stuff where a piece of heat insulator came off above the front o2 sensor. Not sure how it will hold up to being under there though. It seems to be made of the stuff that vape wicks are made off, with aluminum on top.

 

[MarkamisPrime]

No worries - the way the top is setup is the way it was for the previous 100,000 miles and the way ToyTec recommended. So I put it back together the same way.

Toytec rec for you to hide there logo? [emoji848]hmm
Weird.
Is this really the way they told you to install them ?
I have installed literally about 100 of these kits and have never installed it this way.
Have I been doing it wrong this entire time ?

 

[Kanoe]

No worries - the way the top is setup is the way it was for the previous 100,000 miles and the way ToyTec recommended. So I put it back together the same way.

Hey again. It's none of my business, but the point of this forum is to help so please take this with the good will intended.

I did a bit of searching and looking at images of this lift you have and it looks to me like yours is assembled 90 degrees out of whack. Even on the Toytec pics I saw they have the bottom bushing and the top bushing aligned parallel to each other. The photo seriously makes it look like yours are installed perpendicular instead. Maybe it's just the way it looks in the photo.

 

[99Runnr]

Sold mine about 10 days ago now and instantly bought a new toy for the same money. However..

Gathered up anything 4runner specific today an will be giving it away free for locals to Lacey, WA area? Figure this secton legitimately gets more exposure then the classifieds.

IFS 4:10 front diff, moon mist rear seats, good CV axle (OEM), some clips/hangers for cargo cover, 96-98 center console, 4x4 control module, more random parts as I find them. FREE to anyone local.

PM me if you want it.

 

[d0nkeyxpunch]

Went wheeling with my Jeep buddies. They were pretty surprised how capable these 4Runners are. I only have 3" lift and 32s.

BTW the rocker panel isn't cracked in the last pic. Just my black dog seat cover tie down which I closed the door on.

 

[tx_shooter]

Hey again. It's none of my business, but the point of this forum is to help so please take this with the good will intended.

I did a bit of searching and looking at images of this lift you have and it looks to me like yours is assembled 90 degrees out of whack. Even on the Toytec pics I saw they have the bottom bushing and the top bushing aligned parallel to each other. The photo seriously makes it look like yours are installed perpendicular instead. Maybe it's just the way it looks in the photo.

I did some looking and digging and found that the previous owner installed it out of whack. So last night I did take it down and rotate it till the tops were in line with the bottom properly. I derped when I installed it like I took it off. The previous shocks worked well for 80,000 miles so I did not question it.

Thanks for questioning it and making me look twice. Hopefully the bushings last longer now that they are aligned properly.