What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Was it plug and play? Been looking to swap to a cleaner 4 spoke wheel.

Everything is plug n' play except the airbag connector from the clockspring. I'll be rewiring the connector from a 2000 SR5 on to my 1997 clockspring so the airbag will work. The rest of the electrical for the horn and cruise control are simple plug n' play.

If you do the swap though, be sure to get the entire horn pad assembly (airbag) for the new wheel as the older 2 spoke airbags aren't compatible with the newer 4 spoke steering wheel.
 
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Audio upgrade

Again. I compromised and put in a more modern unit.
I have to say it does drive the other components
well.
 

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Yesterday I did front upper and lower control arm bushings. Went with the energy suspension kit. Wasn't too bad of an install but it took a whole day to get done.
Today after the alignment was done, I noticed a huge difference is road feel and smoothness. Things that used to shake and bang over bumps now didn't make any noise and the shaking steering wheel and right pull while braking is all gone. The bushing were the originals from '99 that had 318,400 miles on them... they were shot.

Did the rear lowers 2 weeks ago, just have the rear uppers and panhard left.
 
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Checked some things.
Need get out my BFH for the rear pinch welds and get the longer sway bar links.
I still have about an inch to inch and a half of up travel. On the stock coil bumps I never installed the toytech extensions.
I previously thought it was my shocks limiting my up travel but I never had this ramp to try things out on.
 
Did some quick measurements for the sliders getting them ready for install
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To me it looks like the rear lift post is crushing your slider a bit dont they? At least that is what it looks like from my view, hope you havent bend the slider by the lift post. I would it hate if that ever happend to me after getting them new lol.
 
To me it looks like the rear lift post is crushing your slider a bit dont they? At least that is what it looks like from my view, hope you havent bend the slider by the lift post. I would it hate if that ever happend to me after getting them new lol.

I think that's just an optical illusion... It's the kick out making it look bent at that angle. Adding to the illusion, the previous poster has sliders with no kick outs...Pretty trippy huh...
 
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ARB rear locker, rebuild from East Coast Gear Supply

sand blasted, powder coated, new seals, new wheel bearings. replaced all the rear interlinks hardware and blue locked it to torque specs.

new tom woods driveshaft

pretty much the entire rear drive-train is reman'ed

before
<a href="https://imgur.com/OdD4vfX"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/OdD4vfXm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

after
<a href="https://imgur.com/6IdKhPL"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/6IdKhPLm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
Put in Storage Again

Washed and vacuumed. Oil changed. Put back in her sea can for the winter.

Had her out for a total of 1 month this year. Too much on the go and summer is too short here.
 
Tail light guards

Picked these up for $20 and repainted them ... been wanting the tail light guards for a while, I know they serve no purpose but I don't care.

Repaint on bedlined trim coming this week.
 

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Today I finally jacked the rear end up and decided to get the rear drums working properly. Have had the 4runner for about 6 months not or so and they have been useless. I would be able to pull the handle and get 11-12 clicks and the brakes would barely engage. Got the drums off, was surprised to see quite a lot of life left in the pads. Got the. Cleaned and adjusted down to about 6-7 clicks, they are noticably better but still not great.
When slowly moving and I pull the handle up. It will stop me very slowly. This is my first vehicle with rear drums so I don't know if I am expecting rear disc type performance out of them and being able to lock the wheels up, but they are far from being able to do that.
So you guys that have properly working drums, do they grab really hard or are they still fairly weak?

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Planning out my Black Friday sale purchases.

I am thinking of getting the addicted offroad tube bumper and before install, cut the frame rail caps off, run a chimney sweep brush through the entire frame rails multiple times, clean the inside as best I can, coat the frame rails and then re-weld the caps and install bumper/winch.

I know people cut the caps for ARB bumpers, has anyone coated the frame rails or swept them during that time? I think that would be my best option to really clean them out.

Northeast trucks love the salt/grime so rust prevention is top priority.
 
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