What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Finally finished the rear bumper re-build. I couldn't have ever done this with out my dad's help. Took two weeks to complete it, but it's done & done right. I am so happy to have my rig back and to have the rear bumper done so I don't have to lift the tire anymore, since I can't...

Thanks for the read.

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Finally got the rear outlets installed :)

One standard 12V outlet, one aux/USB to hook up to my headunit. I'll put a thread up soon with more info! Link will be in my signature

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Finally got the lift finished after work last night, went with 5100's all the way around with extended travels in the rear toytec/eibachs up front and LC 8 wraps in the rear. Couldn't be more please, rides like a hell right now but hoping the front settles soon.
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Finally finished the rear bumper re-build. I couldn't have ever done this with out my dad's help. Took two weeks to complete it, but it's done & done right. I am so happy to have my rig back and to have the rear bumper done so I don't have to lift the tire anymore, since I can't...

Thanks for the read.

Great job man, Looks great!!
 
What a day!!

What did I do today??? I blew out my rear diff trying to go to Virginia to visit my Mom who is in poor health. With my Daughter with me no less. We were on a curve doing about 50 when it locked up. Fortunately it was raining and we didn't roll over. It is totally shot. I always have tools with me and I pulled the drive shaft and now there is no more noise. I put it in 4wd and now have front wheel drive. I have 370 miles to go...then 460 miles to drive to get back home. IS THIS SAFE????!!!! Please help me make a decision...should I return home?? Or go see my Mom.
 
That's a hard choice, especially if you don't know how the diff is broken. It will still be turning while the wheels rotate. Any chance you could rent a car to go see your mom and then swap it for your rig on the way back? 80 miles home with a bad diff is definitely better for the car than 840.

I think you're running the risk of it locking up or grenading on you farther down the road. You could pull the drain plug and see what comes out. If you've got chunks you don't want them to get lodged back in later. Then you could make a choice and refill your diff.
 
It grenaded while trying to get to a safe place. We were on a mountain road with no shoulder just guard rails. I'm headin home. One good thing is it totally destroyed...no more clunking back there. I hope the transfer case can take it.
 
Got a call from the body shop working on my read-end accident repair, they found another $700 worth of supplemental damages when they removed the bumper

I told them to call the other guy's insurance co because I was afraid of the cost to value corridor and didn't want to pay out of pocket or have my car declared a total loss. He understood and agreed.

He just called me back and the other guy's insurance company authorized the additional expense and the repairs continue. Mercury is spending over $3,500 to repair a vehicle that is worth less than that wholesale. God bless America.
 
It grenaded while trying to get to a safe place. We were on a mountain road with no shoulder just guard rails. I'm headin home. One good thing is it totally destroyed...no more clunking back there. I hope the transfer case can take it.

The case can take it. Your front diff would go before the case. Stay at or under 55, you'll be fine.


I ordered some 5125's from Toytec, since the 3yr old 5100's on the back of my junker refuse to come off. Kinda pissed about that. Note: toss the nylon nut for a standard with a lock washer. You'll thank me someday.
 
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It grenaded while trying to get to a safe place. We were on a mountain road with no shoulder just guard rails. I'm headin home. One good thing is it totally destroyed...no more clunking back there. I hope the transfer case can take it.

Can he just pull the gears out of the third member then the axles can spin all they want, no chance of metal shards getting stuck?
 
Can he just pull the gears out of the third member then the axles can spin all they want, no chance of metal shards getting stuck?
What would hold the inner splined part of the axle? Wouldn't it just bang around in the housing and destroy the bearings as a best case scenario?
 
Yea, don't do that... the carrier is what supports the axles.

The case will be able to handle the "FWD" driving since the rear driveshaft is removed, no chance of binding. Interesting that is seized with the driveshaft on it however it's fine if it free spins down the road. You sure the tcase isn't the issue at the output?
 
What would hold the inner splined part of the axle? Wouldn't it just bang around in the housing and destroy the bearings as a best case scenario?

There's like a metal sleeve that kinda hold the rear axles in straight. Like if you pull the 3rd member out. Inside the actual axle housing. Next to where the axle would be coming out. There is a guide for it.
 
Got my axle seals and brakes done. Also new bell cranks as the parking brake was rusted. The shop hooked me up for $660 out the door and I'm happy as can be! Truck drives great and stops way better.
 
Lower rear control arms✔
Doing Rear uppers today.

Next up when I get back from work in 5 weeks is to finally cut and re weld my front and rear bumpers to get rid of the 1.5inch gap created by the body lift I pit in and the final rear end upgrade will be a refurbished panhard with new Strongflex poly bushings and the
Eimkeith PCK for the rear axle and possibly some superbumps from wheelers.
 

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