What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Well yesterday I put some new led tail lights on the Runner. Now I have all rear leds! Now one issue.. I have the stupid ABS light on now.. Today I'm going to head over to O'reillys and see what they say is causing the error..

I seen other post about people having the same issue and some say resistors some say their 3rd led light was out and that fixed it but I'm still unsure.. All my lights work and do not have any hyperflash issues. So I don't know.. :help:

I'll see what O'Reillys says the cause is and go from there...

Pics later today..



I have LED’s in my tail lights and put one in the third brake light and like you, got the abs light. There’s not enough resistance with all three brake lights being LED’s it confuses the computer.

I reinstalled the halogen bulb back into the third brake light since I wasn’t able to find a LED I liked that lit up the entire wide housing.
I feel like I had to jump the fuse terminals with a paper clip to get the abs light to go back off, but that could’ve been another mod...
I’m sure a resistor would probably fix the issue as well.
 
Terrible picture, but I installed my diff lock switch today :D
 

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Installed a new cluster, so far no check engine light for p1780....fingers crossed.....lost about 85k miles on the odometer.
 

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NGK plugs are just as OEM as Densos--all third gen V6s came with 3 NGK plugs on one side and 3 Densos on the other. I run only NGKs since Day 1, and never a misfire.


Whoa, really?

I read somewhere here that the different plugs were due to two different assembly plants working in series on different aspects during production.

There's a thread here with the specific plug part numbers that the purists follow to keep it as factory as possible.

I too have run NGK dual electrode plugs for as long as I've had my runner with much success, plus Denso coils and NGK (heretic blue) wires - I'm a rebel and idgaf.

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Looks great. What color did you do the rear bumper in?

Nice mixup from PC black


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I used Rustoleum hammered finish black. Looks more like a charcoal grey to me... but I'm happy with it. It was either this or truck bed liner. There's no way I was going to drop $200 dollars to powder coat it only to have to rattle can over scratches from the trail.
 
I used Rustoleum hammered finish black. Looks more like a charcoal grey to me... but I'm happy with it. It was either this or truck bed liner. There's no way I was going to drop $200 dollars to powder coat it only to have to rattle can over scratches from the trail.

LOL, I used the same Rustoleum hammered black for my sliders. I know exactly what you are talking about. They look greenish grey. How the HELL they call that black, is beyond me.:shrug: You can always paint over with a semi gloss black that is actually... black if you ever desire. I had to touch up my rear swing out. The mouth breather powder coater guy just painted over all the hardware, (not what we discussed). So, I removed the hardware and fold down table. Nothing behind hardware and table hinge were powder coated. Naturally, this area rusted a little. I sanded it down, primed and painted it with semi gloss and I would have a hard time telling where one ends and the other begins.

So THAT's something I might have changed. I would have done the suggested POR-15 paint, and finished up with simi gloss black. I hate having to fix someone else's mistakes.
 
I finally drank the Kool-Aid.

My '98 has been having a weird misfire and stumble, but only on the first start of the day, and usually for about the first 8 miles of my drive to work. If I drove anytime after that, it ran fine. I was thinking Head gasket, and once it got to temp and things expanded, it sealed up and ran fine. This proved not to be the case, as my coolant and oil levels are exactly the same as they have been all summer. I didn't think it could be ignition, or it would do it all the time, not just here and there, and not more at any speed/gear than others. Well...

I decided to get new OEM Denso coil boots and reinstall my OEM coils. Along with that, I put in OEM Denso plug wires in place of the NGKs that I had, as well as Denso plugs in place of the NGKs.

Well, I was dumbfounded when the goddamn thing fired up and hasn't misfired yet. (Did the parts swap on Friday)

I guess they sprinkle some magic in the OEM factory, huh?

My 98 started to misfire and stumble the day after I brought it home from the dealership after they replaced the valve covers. Only mine does it for seconds after morning starts and/or 6+ hours of sitting.

Dealer told me yesterday they think it's a very small head gasket leak, so small they couldn't detect it with the blue dye, but they did say my coolant was low. They suggest I baby it and bring it back when it gets worse.

I did put new NGK plugs and Denso wires less then a year ago, but I haven't changed the coils. Maybe I'll try that before undertaking the head gasket.
 
I finally drank the Kool-Aid.

My '98 has been having a weird misfire and stumble, but only on the first start of the day, and usually for about the first 8 miles of my drive to work. If I drove anytime after that, it ran fine. I was thinking Head gasket, and once it got to temp and things expanded, it sealed up and ran fine. This proved not to be the case, as my coolant and oil levels are exactly the same as they have been all summer. I didn't think it could be ignition, or it would do it all the time, not just here and there, and not more at any speed/gear than others. Well...

I decided to get new OEM Denso coil boots and reinstall my OEM coils. Along with that, I put in OEM Denso plug wires in place of the NGKs that I had, as well as Denso plugs in place of the NGKs.

Well, I was dumbfounded when the goddamn thing fired up and hasn't misfired yet. (Did the parts swap on Friday)

I guess they sprinkle some magic in the OEM factory, huh?

Why are so many people replacing their plug wires and coils? I am still on my originals with 305k miles. Am I just lucky?:confused:
 
I used Rustoleum hammered finish black. Looks more like a charcoal grey to me... but I'm happy with it. It was either this or truck bed liner. There's no way I was going to drop $200 dollars to powder coat it only to have to rattle can over scratches from the trail.



LOL, I used the same Rustoleum hammered black for my sliders. I know exactly what you are talking about. They look greenish grey. How the HELL they call that black, is beyond me.:shrug: You can always paint over with a semi gloss black that is actually... black if you ever desire. I had to touch up my rear swing out. The mouth breather powder coater guy just painted over all the hardware, (not what we discussed). So, I removed the hardware and fold down table. Nothing behind hardware and table hinge were powder coated. Naturally, this area rusted a little. I sanded it down, primed and painted it with semi gloss and I would have a hard time telling where one ends and the other begins.



So THAT's something I might have changed. I would have done the suggested POR-15 paint, and finished up with simi gloss black. I hate having to fix someone else's mistakes.



I know it was probably a different feeling for you guys expecting black but I would be happy with the color. Definitely a nice change from everything being powder coat black.

How's the finish holding up?


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No and yes. Insulation on plug wires doesn't last forever but coils could.

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Most of those Denso coils will outlive the truck they are in. The only good reason for a preventive swap is if the ones in there are off-brand and you want some peace-of-mind. On the other hand, swapping the rubber boots for new Denso ones is worthwhile; I just did that as I near 200k because that's me.

Plug wires at 305k is pushing it. But if you want to wait until you get a P030X code, be my guest. It's a valid approach, because a misfire will not strand you and those factory Sumitomos are near bullet-proof. Just remember, when you do get a P030X, that your wires are ancient and that's the first thing you need to do.
 
Most of those Denso coils will outlive the truck they are in. The only good reason for a preventive swap is if the ones in there are off-brand and you want some peace-of-mind. On the other hand, swapping the rubber boots for new Denso ones is worthwhile; I just did that as I near 200k because that's me.

Plug wires at 305k is pushing it. But if you want to wait until you get a P030X code, be my guest. It's a valid approach, because a misfire will not strand you and those factory Sumitomos are near bullet-proof. Just remember, when you do get a P030X, that your wires are ancient and that's the first thing you need to do.

what rubber boots are you talking about, the ones that go over the plugs on the coils ?
 
I know it was probably a different feeling for you guys expecting black but I would be happy with the color. Definitely a nice change from everything being powder coat black.

How's the finish holding up?


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I would say the self etching primer and Rust-Oleum hammered finish holds up pretty well. I have the black finish on the sliders and silver finish on the Savage skids. I step up onto my sliders every time I get in and out of my vehicle and they don't seem to mind at all. There are maybe just a couple little small areas I could touch up here and there, but I am very happy with the outcome.

Of course there's a few spots were people of flung the door into my sliders, but I like leaving those there because they make me laugh. Just tiny vertical lines...

I need to get a door stencil with little tick marks on the rear of my sliders.
 
Most of those Denso coils will outlive the truck they are in. The only good reason for a preventive swap is if the ones in there are off-brand and you want some peace-of-mind. On the other hand, swapping the rubber boots for new Denso ones is worthwhile; I just did that as I near 200k because that's me.

Plug wires at 305k is pushing it. But if you want to wait until you get a P030X code, be my guest. It's a valid approach, because a misfire will not strand you and those factory Sumitomos are near bullet-proof. Just remember, when you do get a P030X, that your wires are ancient and that's the first thing you need to do.

Would you say, that water crossing and Offroad could reduce the life of a coil?
 
Removing Elocker Actuator-97 4runner.

Good day guys...
I'm trying to take out the elocker actuator of my 97 4runner,I managed to pop it off and disconnected the connectors on top but there's a wire that goes from the actuator motor to somewhere on top of the unit,I have no idea how to disconnect it.
There's no plug or connector for that particular wire/cable.Taking the actuator off,is there a point where a wire has to be cut ?
Sorry for posting this here as I don't have enough post to start my own thread.
Thanks a lot.
 
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