What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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What did you do to your 3rd gen today?

I installed a Rigid Industries SR series 30” light bar. It’s really bright and I can’t wait to test it at night.

I have a stock bumper and couldn’t find a place to install it without looking like a teenager.

I wanted to mount it behind the grille but the 30” light bar was too big to fit. Under the valence was the next best spot, I know it’s in a vulnerable spot but I don’t off road much and really need the extra light as I have stock headlight bulbs for now.

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Over the Memorial Day weekend..

* New Toyota Lower Ball Joints
* Bilstein 5100 front shocks
* Front OME 880 coil springs
* Old Man Emu 60073 (soft valving) rear shocks
* Rear OME 906 coil springs

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Before | Fronts only | After

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Next weekend I'm going back in to do the inner & outer tie-rods so I can get an alignment. :yo:
 
where did you get the inner/outers from? OEM? aftermarket(what brand)? Lift/refresh looks good.

Just went with Moog parts for the tie-rods - ordered from Rock Auto. Outer's are the grease-able ones so I can make sure to keep them lubed.
Haven't heard any issues with those (only seen people say to not use the Moog LBJ's). They look and feel pretty solid upon visual inspection.. We'll see how they perform once I install.

Thanks for the kind words. :yo:
 
Removed the running boards/side steps, whatever you want to call them. (Hate how they make the 3rd gen T4R's look.) Also, mounted stock Tacoma wheels. Here's a before and after, looks very different in my opinion.
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Over the Memorial Day weekend..

* New Toyota Lower Ball Joints
* Bilstein 5100 front shocks
* Front OME 880 coil springs
* Old Man Emu 60073 (soft valving) rear shocks
* Rear OME 906 coil springs

Next weekend I'm going back in to do the inner & outer tie-rods so I can get an alignment. :yo:

I want that same setup, We installed 1.25in spacers today
 
What? You can drive without the front diff? What do you do with your axles? Did you make a 2wd kit by cutting up some old axles?

You definitely can't drive without the rear diff. Your axle shafts would bounce around and mess things up. You can disconnect driveshafts and drive around fine though, either front or rear.

Sway bars
 
Sway bars

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Yeah you can drive without both swaybars if you want to. Just don't take corners too fast. I haven't had a rear sway bar on my rig in the 7 years I've owned it. I'd really like to try one out though.
 
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I Finally... Finally.. After 3 years, got around to replacing my Fan Clutch with a brand new one.

Folks seriously, if yours is seized, replace it. You won't believe the difference it makes.


Anyone want to buy a Factory Aisin Fan Clutch after I rebuild the old one? If not, I'll keep it as a spare.
 
I Finally... Finally.. After 3 years, got around to replacing my Fan Clutch with a brand new one.

Folks seriously, if yours is seized, replace it. You won't believe the difference it makes.


Anyone want to buy a Factory Aisin Fan Clutch after I rebuild the old one? If not, I'll keep it as a spare.
We're you able to turn it by hand at all?
I've been getting some minor over heating at a standstill.

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We're you able to turn it by hand at all?
I've been getting some minor over heating at a standstill.

Yeah barely. It was pretty much full "cold" lock up. No matter how much heat it had on it.

I see what fails on these and how. There are teardowns, and rebuild video's out there, so I won't be doing another one. However, most of the videos show using 80/90 synthetic gear oil. Other people are starting to use 7000 series R/C Car silicone diff gear fluid. Why, I'm not sure. The Silicone oil is super expensive for how many ounces you get. I'm going to give AmsOil Synth Gear fluid a try.
 
We're you able to turn it by hand at all?
I've been getting some minor over heating at a standstill.

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There are two modes of fail:

1- It turns when it should not...that's what he has.

2- It doesn't turn when it should....that's what you have.
 
new key fob today. not sure it’s worth the $30 but looks cool and hopefully it keeps my toddler from hitting the red button all the time.
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new key fob today. not sure it’s worth the $30 but looks cool and hopefully it keeps my toddler from hitting the red button all the time.

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Bought one too last year. Falls more so in the $20 range. If there was another company making one in a better plastic with metal nuts that the screws get driven into instead of plastic, I would pay $50 hands down for that.
 
Bought one too last year. Falls more so in the $20 range. If there was another company making one in a better plastic with metal nuts that the screws get driven into instead of plastic, I would pay $50 hands down for that.

I agree with the $30 is a little steep. Definitely $20 would be prime and the company would be getting thousands of orders.. That being said, I think the pricing is probably strategic to keep orders down to a manageable level given the small nature of the business producing them.

I personally love mine though. Although $30 was a little high, I can't help but recall all of the times in my life I have wasted $30 in much worse ways than this sweet key fob I see and touch every single day. hah. :D :yo:
 
There are two modes of fail:
1- It turns when it should not...that's what he has.
2- It doesn't turn when it should....that's what you have.

Yes and in Both cases, tearing them apart to see what has happened is not a bad idea. In My case, the fluid inside was trashed and glue-ish. Hence the full lockup. His might have leaked out, and leaving NO fluid coupling, and "free-wheeling".

new key fob today. not sure it’s worth the $30 but looks cool and hopefully it keeps my toddler from hitting the red button all the time.

Same Fob I bought myself, and Wife for her Tacoma. Way more sturdy than Toyota's offering, especially when 10+ years old. And the "Help!" replacement cases are a joke. I agree with the $20 price point. In which I caught them on sale at $19.95. I also agree on the I'd rather see the screw dig into nutserts or captive nuts in the plastic, rather than thread into plastic.
 
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