What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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cleveland222
New member
I drove it to the gun range.
Beautiful scenery.
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
Three quarters of the way through our 4,000 mile road trip across Canada and US national parks. In Grand Tetons today.
Averaging over 19 mpg, which is shockingly higher than what I'm used to in this truck.
Averaging over 19 mpg, which is shockingly higher than what I'm used to in this truck.
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dogtail
New member
Yeah your right, studs on the transmission, should have remembered when buying the 5 speed gear box bulling it into cargo area of my 4runner grabbing it by the studs. The new flanges are both same thickness as the front only factory flange, but my rear side bolts have plenty of thread to spare, not sure if a difference because of 5 speed. Same here, no more 70 mph rumble, mine wasn't that bad but enough to trash my pinion bearing. I have all new rear end bearings now and a 5 speed gear box with new bearings and new driveshaft. Smooth and tight, good for another 300K.
mysunroofworks
Member
Decided to replace my fuel pump with a Denso, immediately fixed my hot start and vapor lock issues. I can now start the Runner without touching the gas pedal! Went from ~16 MPG on highway to ~19.5 MPG on reverse leg of same trip, nothing else changed except "Big Two" mod.
Also performed a quick and dirty "Big Two" mod. I found a set of jumper cables in the road one day, the alligator clips were smashed, but I cut two different lengths, already had some large circle connectors, tape and wiring loom. Ran one from the alternator to battery, the other directly to factory ground on inner fender and battery. Immediately fixed my dead battery after a few days of sitting issue and stereo cutting out at high volume levels.
I need to stop being so damn lazy, should have done this stuff months ago!
:rockon:
Also performed a quick and dirty "Big Two" mod. I found a set of jumper cables in the road one day, the alligator clips were smashed, but I cut two different lengths, already had some large circle connectors, tape and wiring loom. Ran one from the alternator to battery, the other directly to factory ground on inner fender and battery. Immediately fixed my dead battery after a few days of sitting issue and stereo cutting out at high volume levels.
I need to stop being so damn lazy, should have done this stuff months ago!
:rockon:
Wedgy
New member
I searched for the "big two mod" and found nothing. Do you have a link ?
Thanks
nc-grayson
Member
2/3rds of the “big three” mod.
giovannie23
New member
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Didn't you post this to the Facebook group earlier this week? Lol
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Today I wrapped up pretty much the last of my maintenance items on my '99 SR5. Thought I'd reports a few things I learned.
The biggest job was the brake pads/rotors. Stock. I ordered everything from Camelback with no issues. The job itself was amazingly simple; if you are hesitant about doing your own brakes, like I was, just watch a few YouTube videos.
Since this was going to be a one-man job, I opted to use the Russell Speedbleeders. These are what I used on STOCK calipers:
Russell 639560 Speed Bleeder
The only issue I had, and it's my fault, is that I used silicone paste on the shims thinking that would be OK. Wrong. As soon as I reassembled everything and went for a test drive, I heard a "rattling" sound. The brakes worked fine, just noisy. After some investigation, I found out that what I needed to use was "brake grease".
This is the grease I ordered:
Loctite 40300 Disc Brake Quiet Stick, 19-gram
This stuff comes in a tube just like Elmer's Glue Sticks for paper, and has close to the same tacky consistency. Today it proved itself by getting rid of the rattling sound after I took apart the brakes for a second time. Lesson learned.
My other task was replacing the sway bar bushings. For that I used the red Prothane kit.
Prothane 18-1115 Red 26 mm Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit
While researching this, I found some 2016 threads on this forum discussing the fact that the end link bushings supplied were the wrong size from Prothane. I can report that this seems to have been cleared up, as my kit installed with no issues. (This is also where I first heard the silicone paste which caused me issues with the brakes.)
Mission Automotive Dielectric Grease/Silicone Paste/Waterproof Marine Grease (8 Oz.)
While doing the sway bar bushings, I noticed that the end links were showing more wear than I was comfortable with on the long rod that goes thru the hole at the end of the sway bar itself. Just friction wear on the passenger side; none at all on the driver side. So, back to Amazon. After seeing that Toyota wanted around $80 each for end link, and reading in this forum how others opted for non-OEM end links since they are not a "critical" component, I ordered these:
ACDelco 46G20513A Advantage Front Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Kit
The quality seems pretty good. Since I already had the Prothane bushings, I used those instead of the black ones that came from ACDelco. I also re-used the cupped end caps from the original end links since they were a little larger and fit the Prothanes better.
To reward myself for all my hard work, I just placed an order for an oval red/silver grille badge that been discussed here recently.
Aluminum TEQ Universal Badge (Round and Oval)
The biggest job was the brake pads/rotors. Stock. I ordered everything from Camelback with no issues. The job itself was amazingly simple; if you are hesitant about doing your own brakes, like I was, just watch a few YouTube videos.
Since this was going to be a one-man job, I opted to use the Russell Speedbleeders. These are what I used on STOCK calipers:
Russell 639560 Speed Bleeder
The only issue I had, and it's my fault, is that I used silicone paste on the shims thinking that would be OK. Wrong. As soon as I reassembled everything and went for a test drive, I heard a "rattling" sound. The brakes worked fine, just noisy. After some investigation, I found out that what I needed to use was "brake grease".
This is the grease I ordered:
Loctite 40300 Disc Brake Quiet Stick, 19-gram
This stuff comes in a tube just like Elmer's Glue Sticks for paper, and has close to the same tacky consistency. Today it proved itself by getting rid of the rattling sound after I took apart the brakes for a second time. Lesson learned.
My other task was replacing the sway bar bushings. For that I used the red Prothane kit.
Prothane 18-1115 Red 26 mm Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit
While researching this, I found some 2016 threads on this forum discussing the fact that the end link bushings supplied were the wrong size from Prothane. I can report that this seems to have been cleared up, as my kit installed with no issues. (This is also where I first heard the silicone paste which caused me issues with the brakes.)
Mission Automotive Dielectric Grease/Silicone Paste/Waterproof Marine Grease (8 Oz.)
While doing the sway bar bushings, I noticed that the end links were showing more wear than I was comfortable with on the long rod that goes thru the hole at the end of the sway bar itself. Just friction wear on the passenger side; none at all on the driver side. So, back to Amazon. After seeing that Toyota wanted around $80 each for end link, and reading in this forum how others opted for non-OEM end links since they are not a "critical" component, I ordered these:
ACDelco 46G20513A Advantage Front Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Kit
The quality seems pretty good. Since I already had the Prothane bushings, I used those instead of the black ones that came from ACDelco. I also re-used the cupped end caps from the original end links since they were a little larger and fit the Prothanes better.
To reward myself for all my hard work, I just placed an order for an oval red/silver grille badge that been discussed here recently.
Aluminum TEQ Universal Badge (Round and Oval)
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
Today I realized that my post from yesterday did not upload the pics successfully, so let's try again today
.
mysunroofworks
Member
Exactly. It was just a quick and dirty fix. I'm planning on doing the CS144 alternator conversion soon and I'll finish the Big Three at that time. :bigok:
thecole1098
New member
Got my Lotus rear control arm bracket skids in the mail today, so I installed those! Had to take a center punch to the passenger side hole where the new bolt went through as I previously smashed that bracket on a rock during Spring Break. Overall took about 10 mins to install both sides.
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Wedgy
New member
Today I bought a little sister for my 4R.
Rav4 XLE AWD 2015 Anniversary edition in Magnetic Grey
BlueSea are awesome, but don't use the "ground" section, it's prone to failing and only rated for about 40A before you get melted plastic and inconsistent connection.
You should have ordered the dual-6 circuits instead, so you can run some stuff off battery and some via a relay on acc/run.
You also might want to check for a Charge Guard or similar system if you are serious about dual battery (and run lots of equipment not "needed" for the truck to run).
->Day job is vehicular outfitter, I build police and EMT cars and truck all day.
Rav4 XLE AWD 2015 Anniversary edition in Magnetic Grey
Aux fuse box, on board air and the early stages of my dual battery setup..
BlueSea are awesome, but don't use the "ground" section, it's prone to failing and only rated for about 40A before you get melted plastic and inconsistent connection.
You should have ordered the dual-6 circuits instead, so you can run some stuff off battery and some via a relay on acc/run.
You also might want to check for a Charge Guard or similar system if you are serious about dual battery (and run lots of equipment not "needed" for the truck to run).
->Day job is vehicular outfitter, I build police and EMT cars and truck all day.
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ltsr
New member
Thanks for the advice. I didn’t know about the ground limitations on this aux fuse box. I’ll look into the ChargeGuard.
I have been collecting parts for a good part of a year. I’ll be running a ctek d250sa to charge my second battery with a vmaxtanks battery. I’m essentially doing my own version of yeti’s goal zero. It’s all going in a pelican case so it’s all mobile.
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