What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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octanejunkie said:
Mission accomplished, easy peasy

Installed new brake shoes on both rears wheels. 600 pulls on the hand brake lever later brakes feel good.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
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Can't you stick a screw driver in the hole through the dust cover and turn the wheel that way?
 
Today I did the fan clutch test with rolled up paper that [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] explains. It failed the test just like his. It is stiff when cold but loose when hot, the opposite of what it should be. But it would slowly speed up as the rev's went up, just not immediately. So I just ordered a new one off Amazon for $90 after the dealership up here quoted me $490 Canadian. FCT-013.

It got me thinking what is the purpose of the fan clutch anyways? All it does is cause problems. What's wrong with the fan always spinning fast with rpm's? Does it really use that much power? The thermostat will keep the engine from overcooling if it doesn't need cooling, right?

Is there a way to fully lock it in so I don't ever have this problem again?

That got me worrying I blew a head gasket because my exhaust smells funny. But I drove it to my friend's house and it smells the same as his. I hooked up my scangauge for the drive over on a mildly warm sunny day and it hung around 200 F, sometimes above and sometimes below, usually about 195-198.

The other week I climbed a mountain slowly which makes me worry about overheating. The idiot gauge on the dash didn't seem to move much but I wonder how hot I actually got.

Then we checked my oil dipstick, and there was barely enough oil to leave a mark on the stick!!!! How does that happen? I changed the oil 12,000 km ago with full synthetic so it's a good time to do it again. It doesn't leak oil and doesn't burn oil. How the hell does oil just vanish like that?
 
carp73 said:
Finally assembled and installed the sliders that have been sitting in my garage for two months!

Also installed a used rear drive shaft I picked up to fix a bad chirping/tweeting sound that I have been getting the last week or so. It sounds exactly like the Ujoints squeaking and I thought it was the double cardan ball joint because when I tried greasing it it was bone dry. Unfortunately greasing the old drive shaft did not help and apparently neither did installing a new (used) one:boom:

Needless to say, even after greasing up the new one before install it's still making the exact same sound. The old double cardan was super floppy and loose when I took it off and the new one was much tighter so I was confident that was going to solve the problem. All well, I have no idea what it is now. Sounds EXACTLY like a Ujoint to me.... but what are the chances that both drive shafts would make the exact same sound? Sorry, I know this isn't really the right place for all that but I just needed to vent for a bit!
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I found my rear end pinion bearing bad. See if you can move your rear end flange up and down where the driveshaft connects. Put in neutral when you do it. If bad can cause vibration in the driveshaft. Mine had 300K on the clock. I ended up doing a full rear end bearing job and new driveshaft to take it another 300K.
 
dogtail said:
I found my rear end pinion bearing bad. See if you can move your rear end flange up and down where the driveshaft connects. Put in neutral when you do it. If bad can cause vibration in the driveshaft. Mine had 300K on the clock. I ended up doing a full rear end bearing job and new driveshaft to take it another 300K.
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Thanks for the reply. I did check the pinion bearing and it has no play and no clunking or vibrations or anything else besides that damn chirping above 10mph and vehicle speed related. Does not make any noises is vehicle is not moving
 
YOTAGUY93 said:
Probably the same 99 I got my stuff from. Sun valley?
When I got my stuff the truck was intact but I was in my Camry and unable to fit much into it so I thought I’d go back Friday and it was all gone(literally) by the time I went back.
Click to expand...

You know it, Primo Lot, Row D-7 :). The interior was all gone, but I did grab the carpet and the headliner. They were like new. Front bumper and grille were pristine and still in place when I left. I'm sure by now with the 40% sale, it's just a carcass.
 
Got my lower link mount pretty good yesterday on some monster ledges.

8780_C4_A8-_B28_C-437_D-80_FD-_D730_C279_C873.jpg

A9_AE2_E57-4_F3_C-4_D13-_A8_C8-_C28312_CEE5_C7.jpg
 
Mark_BC said:
Today I did the fan clutch test with rolled up paper that [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] explains. It failed the test just like his. It is stiff when cold but loose when hot, the opposite of what it should be. But it would slowly speed up as the rev's went up, just not immediately. So I just ordered a new one off Amazon for $90 after the dealership up here quoted me $490 Canadian. FCT-013.

It got me thinking what is the purpose of the fan clutch anyways? All it does is cause problems. What's wrong with the fan always spinning fast with rpm's? Does it really use that much power? The thermostat will keep the engine from overcooling if it doesn't need cooling, right?

Is there a way to fully lock it in so I don't ever have this problem again?

That got me worrying I blew a head gasket because my exhaust smells funny. But I drove it to my friend's house and it smells the same as his. I hooked up my scangauge for the drive over on a mildly warm sunny day and it hung around 200 F, sometimes above and sometimes below, usually about 195-198.

The other week I climbed a mountain slowly which makes me worry about overheating. The idiot gauge on the dash didn't seem to move much but I wonder how hot I actually got.

Then we checked my oil dipstick, and there was barely enough oil to leave a mark on the stick!!!! How does that happen? I changed the oil 12,000 km ago with full synthetic so it's a good time to do it again. It doesn't leak oil and doesn't burn oil. How the hell does oil just vanish like that?
Click to expand...

first thing...Mine runs about 190 via a cheap bluetooth obd reader for my phone. so yours is a tad hot (Im in 100 degree texas atm). also, your oil...did you let it sit for awhile before checking? It should be close to operating temp, BUT it also needs time to settle/drain back into the pan to get a correct reading. 10 minutes? maybe a bit longer? as long as its still warm when checking
 
Headliner swap! Only took mine out because the Homelink hole I added earlier was no longer needed, and my OCD couldn't deal. Never expected to find a junkyard headliner in better shape than mine, but I did find one that was nearly perfect, $20 :).

Anyone want a good condition headliner with the Homelink hole, before it hits the dumpster?



Old:



Replacement:

 
4Runner4Leon said:
You know it, Primo Lot, Row D-7 :). The interior was all gone, but I did grab the carpet and the headliner. They were like new. Front bumper and grille were pristine and still in place when I left. I'm sure by now with the 40% sale, it's just a carcass.
Click to expand...

Tbh I’m still kicking myself over not getting more of the interior that thing looked so freakin clean. I should’ve taken my runner with me but it was a last minute thing tbh. At least the stuff went to a cool guy .
 
Tiktiki said:
You might want to check for play in the LBJ at the same time, it's literally 4 extra bolts to undo/change while at it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for looking out!

I actually just replaced by LBJ last month and saw how bad my outer and inner tie rod ends were.

And on exciting news, I just replaced my tie rod ends! now off to get an alignment
 
Fixed my one link mount and plated them both. Then hit the lower links with some beef. Sure it’s ugly.
7368_FE3_C-8_DC2-4_A81-_B528-8_A54_B5_D08680.jpg

9_A2_F8_CDB-_D9_C5-42_D4-8_EBC-_B19_B2_A86_AFC4.jpg


Removed my chrome rear bumper sides too. Gotta do something with this vent.
9_AC922_DE-_E464-40_EB-_AD5_A-5_EA243_C2_D999.jpg
 
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