What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Be prepared to spend about 10 Gs and look for a long time for a 20 year old truck meeting those criteria. Lower you mileage standards a bit and a lot more hits will pop up.

The mileage will also only tell half the story. There are plenty of trucks out there at 150k with leaking gaskets or cam plugs, brown radiators and rusted frames. A car fax will give you a better picture of the trucks history.

This fellow has done some homework :thumb:

I would not be afraid of a 150K truck considering mine is 269K and going strong, but also be prepared to dump up to $1K into it getting the PM up to date.

Look here -> http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82033-3rd-gen-4runner-buyers-guide.html
 
Had my front skidplate bent up
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Toytec 3” lift

What toytec lift are you running? Tire size?
Does the bumper weigh the lift down at all?

I’m looking at getting my truck lifted soon but I’m not set on what lift yet... I’m running 265/75’s and I’m more then likely going to add a steel bumper in.
 
What toytec lift are you running? Tire size?
Does the bumper weigh the lift down at all?

I’m looking at getting my truck lifted soon but I’m not set on what lift yet... I’m running 265/75’s and I’m more then likely going to add a steel bumper in.

Here is the lift from Toytec.
3" lift ToyTec/Bilstein kit for 96-02 4Runner

I am running 265/75/16. Plan on going to a 285 pretty soon. I have the ARB bumper and it did not weigh down the front at all. I went with the 650 lbs springs. I will say the runner rides a lot better now. I am going to see exactly what it’s made of on the trails today.
 
What toytec lift are you running? Tire size?
Does the bumper weigh the lift down at all?

I’m looking at getting my truck lifted soon but I’m not set on what lift yet... I’m running 265/75’s and I’m more then likely going to add a steel bumper in.

Here is the lift from Toytec.
3" lift ToyTec/Bilstein kit for 96-02 4Runner

I am running 265/75/16. Plan on going to a 285 pretty soon. I have the ARB bumper and it did not weigh down the front at all. I went with the 650 lbs springs. I will say the runner rides a lot better now. I am going to see exactly what it’s made of on the trails today.

Adding an ARB bumper dropped my front end about a 1/4" - true it's not as heavy as it looks, nor does it impact the vehicle by too much once the stock bumper is removed; but the changes add up.

The ARB bumper is about 50% heavier than a stock bumper on it's own, not super heavy, but if you add a winch, that's another 60# easily, plus aftermarket skids and it starts to add up. Notably, adding weight to the vehicle changes the rebound and dampening characteristics of a seasoned suspension more than a tape measure alone can tell.

I've found the best way to approach the lift dilemma (which shocks and springs) is from a weight and performance standpoint. Consider the final configuration and select suspension components to accommodate that end; too soft or too hard and you'll have handling and safety issues. Also don't forget about brakes when making the vehicle/front end heavier. Make sure you have enough meat on your pads, your rear shoes are properly adjusted and all calipers/cylinders are functioning properly to stop your rig.

May I recommend some research ->http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...hlight=3rd+Gen+4Runner+Lift+Information+FAQ's
 
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Bought fluids to do a trans flush ala [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] 's vid (safer than a power flush) and also a coolant exchange - it's been a good year since my radiator swap
 
What toytec lift are you running? Tire size?
Does the bumper weigh the lift down at all?

I’m looking at getting my truck lifted soon but I’m not set on what lift yet... I’m running 265/75’s and I’m more then likely going to add a steel bumper in.

A lot of your question is going to center around available funds and what order you want to do your mods in. I went with the lift the user below posted. I knew the whole time that it was a stepping stone to bigger and better things. I knew I would be taking it off within a few years and replacing it with Kings.

My line of reasoning is that shocks/springs make the truck ride better but do not make it perform much better. I wheel a lot and needed money to go towards tires, skids, sliders, front bumper/winch, rear bumper/swingout, lockers and gears. Those items are what makes a rig wheel better, prevents major damage, and allow self-recovery if needed.

When I do go to Kings I will remove my current lift and sell it to a forum member here. I figure I could get about 500 for it. That line of thinking is how I built my rig to where it is currently. If I had an extra 8000 laying around when I started my build I'd have done everything within a few weeks. I didn't so I found an approach and plan that worked well for me.


Here is the lift from Toytec.
3" lift ToyTec/Bilstein kit for 96-02 4Runner

I am running 265/75/16. Plan on going to a 285 pretty soon. I have the ARB bumper and it did not weigh down the front at all. I went with the 650 lbs springs. I will say the runner rides a lot better now. I am going to see exactly what it’s made of on the trails today.

That lift does just fine on the trails. From a price/performance standpoint it is the best lift for 3rd gens IMO. Did you get different front springs with it? The Eibachs that come standard with that lift are a 620# spring rate.


Adding an ARB bumper dropped my front end about a 1/4" - true it's not as heavy as it looks, nor does it impact the vehicle by too much once the stock bumper is removed; but the changes add up.

When I put on my Relentless and 12K Engo winch I dropped about 1/2". Ride quality actually got better with the added weight for me. Once I put the rear on and bumped the back to 861's I was able to go to the second perch on the Taco billies t and bring the front back up an inch. The increased pre-load actually made the truck ride even better. lol

It's all about what your intended use is and how much cash you have on hand. Both of those can change during the course of a build but having a well thought out plan and executing will go a long way in keeping the costs down.
 
My 1999 SR5 4 Runner for sale. Had it for all my life. Just won't die. 152K still a baby. Sad that I had to post the for sale sign. Will missed you guys.
 
I also want to say think you to everyone for answering some of my questions. Thanks for the tips and all.

I just really hate to sell it since it's still runs great. I just pore in 1.6k to have both valve cam job done. Brand new 6x OEM injectors. New timing belt. New coils and wires.
 
Flexed her out in my brothers backyard. Won't see her for a month, so thought I'd let her do some stretching before I leave. Stuffs pretty tight though.

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Swapped the cigarette lighter for 2 USB charging ports (Blue Sea 1045). Had to enlarge the hole slightly but otherwise pretty straightforward.

usb2.jpg


usb.jpg
 
Went exploring again. My buddy broke his jeep the but my 4Runner took it just fine :lmao:
 

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Here is the lift from Toytec.
3" lift ToyTec/Bilstein kit for 96-02 4Runner

I am running 265/75/16. Plan on going to a 285 pretty soon. I have the ARB bumper and it did not weigh down the front at all. I went with the 650 lbs springs. I will say the runner rides a lot better now. I am going to see exactly what it’s made of on the trails today.

-Thanks to be honest i was looking at this lift because of the value but i wasn't sure if it would hold up irf i put in a steel bumper im more then likely going to run an arb.

Adding an ARB bumper dropped my front end about a 1/4" - true it's not as heavy as it looks, nor does it impact the vehicle by too much once the stock bumper is removed; but the changes add up.

The ARB bumper is about 50% heavier than a stock bumper on it's own, not super heavy, but if you add a winch, that's another 60# easily, plus aftermarket skids and it starts to add up. Notably, adding weight to the vehicle changes the rebound and dampening characteristics of a seasoned suspension more than a tape measure alone can tell.

I've found the best way to approach the lift dilemma (which shocks and springs) is from a weight and performance standpoint. Consider the final configuration and select suspension components to accommodate that end; too soft or too hard and you'll have handling and safety issues. Also don't forget about brakes when making the vehicle/front end heavier. Make sure you have enough meat on your pads, your rear shoes are properly adjusted and all calipers/cylinders are functioning properly to stop your rig.

-All your points are extremely valid. At the moment i'm not sure what direction i want to go with it. I originally bought this vehicle because I've liked it since i was a kid. Also, I tried car camping with my Camry and that was a pain. I'm not experienced at wheeling at all but i wouldn't rule out trying it! Thanks for the link i can assure you I've read the lift FAQ and searched through different builds. My dilemma is choosing one specific configuration(feel like everyone goes through this am right?:p). I honestly don't have the funds to spend a whole lot trying to figure out what setup i like as many have done.

A lot of your question is going to center around available funds and what order you want to do your mods in. I went with the lift the user below posted. I knew the whole time that it was a stepping stone to bigger and better things. I knew I would be taking it off within a few years and replacing it with Kings.

My line of reasoning is that shocks/springs make the truck ride better but do not make it perform much better. I wheel a lot and needed money to go towards tires, skids, sliders, front bumper/winch, rear bumper/swingout, lockers and gears. Those items are what makes a rig wheel better, prevents major damage, and allow self-recovery if needed.

When I do go to Kings I will remove my current lift and sell it to a forum member here. I figure I could get about 500 for it. That line of thinking is how I built my rig to where it is currently. If I had an extra 8000 laying around when I started my build I'd have done everything within a few weeks. I didn't so I found an approach and plan that worked well for me.

-Also good points. At the moment i'm bringing this thing back to life. I don't want to pay twice is my train of thought. I'd rather spend the cash now and know i'm good either which way i go whether it's extreme mall crawling or busting it up on a trail someday. Good thing I've got a rectangular plastic friend... Decisions...

I'm doing-
-Tires-KO2- 265/75
-Suspension-poly bushings on the way- White line/ Energy suspension- spc uppers
-Brakes-TBU-233-PENDING
-Motor/Transmission mounts-OE engine/transmission mounts on the way
-Lift-UNDECIDED
-front bumper-ARB- PENDING
-sliders-UNDECIDED
-skids-UNDECIDED
-rear bumper-UNDECIDED

THANKS GUYS :cheers:
 
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Air conditioner repairs

had a leak in the Evaporator area, pulled the box out and found the core rotted and half restricted with debris. Had already ordered a new core and expansion valve to have on hand. Should have ordered the tube assembly as well. When I started removing the allen head screws holding the tube assembly and expansion valve the evap core the threads pulled out of the tube assembly.
Going junk yarding t/m:car:
 
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