What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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I was given a 17x7.5 spare steelie off a 2016 trail pro and I had it mounted and tried it at full derp.
yep rubs upper control arm.
thinking of picking up a set of the 17x7 trundra sport wheels. hard to imagine that the 7.5 vs 7 width matters but I guess the extra .5 width makes the backspacing different enough to rub the upper arms.
<a href="https://imgur.com/9TPcC1b"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/9TPcC1bl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

also started yet another manual hub build out.
<a href="https://imgur.com/xqsMd0U"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/xqsMd0Ul.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

note: if anybody is looking for ADD hubs I now have 4 good ones, little bit of rust but not bad at all.


I know I have read before, but what is the advantage of manual hubs, and does it get rid of the vacuum assit actuators on the diff, I imagine that is still needed
 
I was given a 17x7.5 spare steelie off a 2016 trail pro and I had it mounted and tried it at full derp.
yep rubs upper control arm.
thinking of picking up a set of the 17x7 trundra sport wheels. hard to imagine that the 7.5 vs 7 width matters but I guess the extra .5 width makes the backspacing different enough to rub the upper arms.

Probably the backspacing. Newer Toyota wheels have more backspacing than our stock 3rd gen wheels.
 
I know I have read before, but what is the advantage of manual hubs, and does it get rid of the vacuum assit actuators on the diff, I imagine that is still needed

I'll hijack this question. Main advantage is that your cv isn't spinning all the time, only when you engage the hubs. This means less wear on the boot if you have a lift with extreme cv angles.

Also if you're out 4x4ing and you break a cv, you can just disengage it and drive somewhere in 2WD without spinning the cv, which may otherwise cause problems if you broke it and it had to spin all the time on regular hubs.

Also some claim that it saves a bit of power because less things spinning.
 
I know I have read before, but what is the advantage of manual hubs, and does it get rid of the vacuum assit actuators on the diff, I imagine that is still needed

no change to the actuators or any wiring.

you can still put the truck into 4WD from inside, no change with that at all.

The main advantage to me is: I have a 3" lift up front so my CV axles are running at a much greater angle than normal. this wears the boots out and will cause them to fail much more quickly than normal. running a lift is not free and there is a cost.

having the manual lockout unlocked and running around on the road most of the time saves my CV axles from that wear and tear. unless I'm locked and in 4WD I'm not turning the CV axles.

if you offroad and I do, and you mess up a CV axle, your in a bad spot. having to trail repair a CV axle sucks big time. If I mess up an axle I can just unlock it and keep going to drive to someplace where I can do the repair.

if you don't offroad and or don't have a lift it makes no sense to have manual lockouts.

yes you can diff drop but I'm not a fan of diff drops because they change the flange angles on the front drive shaft. it's a 100 year old debate about diff drops, I'm not a diff drop guy. others love them and these people are wrong. :)
 
no change to the actuators or any wiring.

you can still put the truck into 4WD from inside, no change with that at all.
…………………………………...

having the manual lockout unlocked and running around on the road most of the time saves my CV axles from that wear and tear. unless I'm locked and in 4WD I'm not turning the CV axles.

if you offroad and I do, and you mess up a CV axle, your in a bad spot. having to trail repair a CV axle sucks big time. If I mess up an axle I can just unlock it and keep going to drive to someplace where I can do the repair...…………………………….

[/B]

hmmmmm...I off road, like that idea of not doing a back road cv replacement
might have to look more into this
 
Added a touch of oil (leaking vc's, on my list of repairs)

Topped off coolant reservoir (recent cooling system overhaul, new: tstat, radiator, upper and lower radiator hoses and fan clutch, along with full flush)

Replaced front wiper blades (need new rear window blade soon though)

Replaced steering wheel cover
 
Probably the backspacing. Newer Toyota wheels have more backspacing than our stock 3rd gen wheels.

2016 steel spare
17"x7.5"
Bolt Pattern: 6x139.7mm or 6x5.50"
Offset: 14mm or 15mm I have found both specs?
Center Bore: 106mm

5 star alloy wheel
16" x 7"
Bolt Pattern: 6x139.7mm or 6x5.50"
Offset: 15mm
Center Bore: 106mm

so when I looked at the specs... really the width is only .5 different and that's all that really has an impact on backspacing in this case since the offset is the same. unless they changed the bead seat on the rim?

I don't know I have seen people claim the tundra sport/sequoia 17 x 7.5 wheels with 285X70R17 tires just work without spacer and those wheels have the same specs as the 2016 pie cutter.

I found a set of FJ's cruiser wheels for $300 but I'm pretty sure those are the same specs. I'm wondering if because I have icons I have a bit of extra droop? I can jack it up like 1" and it clears.

I had myself convienced yesterday I was ordering a set of the newer stock sized solo offroad LCA to push things forward a bit to avoid the rear rub, also have that rub. sigh, why do I even do this crap.
 
2016 steel spare
17"x7.5"
Bolt Pattern: 6x139.7mm or 6x5.50"
Offset: 14mm or 15mm I have found both specs?
Center Bore: 106mm

5 star alloy wheel
16" x 7"
Bolt Pattern: 6x139.7mm or 6x5.50"
Offset: 15mm
Center Bore: 106mm

so when I looked at the specs... really the width is only .5 different and that's all that really has an impact on backspacing in this case since the offset is the same. unless they changed the bead seat on the rim?

I don't know I have seen people claim the tundra sport/sequoia 17 x 7.5 wheels with 285X70R17 tires just work without spacer and those wheels have the same specs as the 2016 pie cutter.

I found a set of FJ's cruiser wheels for $300 but I'm pretty sure those are the same specs. I'm wondering if because I have icons I have a bit of extra droop? I can jack it up like 1" and it clears.

I had myself convienced yesterday I was ordering a set of the newer stock sized solo offroad LCA to push things forward a bit to avoid the rear rub, also have that rub. sigh, why do I even do this crap.

I remember the mid 2000’s Tacoma wheels were supposedly close to 5” bs I would think the newer Toyota wheels were all around that backspacing, but who knows. Did you put a tape measure on them to verify the bs?

I used a converter to calculate a 7.5” wheel with 15mm offset, which is 4.84” bs. That would make them tuck in a bit more and with an extra 1/2” in width for a 7.5” wheel, it makes sense the tire rubs the UCA without spacers. Stock is a 7” wheel with 15mm offset which would be 4.59 bs.
 
Got some new tires today. Pep Boys has Cooper Adventurers on sale, so I went for it. Alignment, balance and mount, and mounting one of the old tires (still plenty of tread left) to the spare.

Painted the hubcaps last night. I made two versions. One is just black, and the other one has red outlines. I love the way there’d outlined look, but it was a pain in the ass to do it, and I don’t have the right tools/painting techniques to make it not look sloppy, so I painted them all black in the end.
 

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Nice Twan. Any before and after pics?
Not great ones, but I do have a couple. There was some rake with the 5100/881 combo, and the Kings helped a lot with that. Currently at the height they shipped at, I need to crank them a little higher for my personal preference.

VWU1fDs.jpg

DbTNrLc.jpg
 
I remember the mid 2000’s Tacoma wheels were supposedly close to 5” bs I would think the newer Toyota wheels were all around that backspacing, but who knows. Did you put a tape measure on them to verify the bs?

I used a converter to calculate a 7.5” wheel with 15mm offset, which is 4.84” bs. That would make them tuck in a bit more and with an extra 1/2” in width for a 7.5” wheel, it makes sense the tire rubs the UCA without spacers. Stock is a 7” wheel with 15mm offset which would be 4.59 bs.

I did actually measure both wheels without tires on them.

the one thing I did not do and I should have was to measure off the hub and get a hard number of how much room I have at full droop. I think maybe I should do that tomorrow that way I can know for sure exactly how much bs I need. I will bet a 7" wheel will clear.

yea the taco wheels had a 30mm offset or more if I remember correctly.


1981 Toyota pickup - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle automotive sale
 
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Coolant replacement.
System flush 8 gallons distilled water.
1.5qt Toy Red covering water in system , 1.7 gallon Toy 50/50 top off & over flow.
 
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Brand new OEM Toyota center console armrest installed.

I thought of looking through the scrap yards but thought, nah might as well get a new one. It sure is nice to get rid of the old cracked up/dirty one.

It's not quite the same look as the original, but that's ok! I read somewhere that the (Oak w/Leather) was a little different style, it is.
 
Brand new OEM Toyota center console armrest installed.

I thought of looking through the scrap yards but thought, nah might as well get a new one. It sure is nice to get rid of the old cracked up/dirty one.

It's not quite the same look as the original, but that's ok! I read somewhere that the (Oak w/Leather) was a little different style, it is.

Do you have a link to the one you purchased? My oak/w leather lid has been deteriorating
 
Do you have a link to the one you purchased? My oak/w leather lid has been deteriorating

Camelback Toyota is where I got mine
p/n: 5890535070E0
$56 - it's called (Lid Assembly)
I believe it's a vinyl material and NOT leather. It also doesn't have the "piping". Didn't matter, as it looks so much better.
 
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