What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[djh650]

I purchased a 1996 limited today

 

[Js'00imited4runner]

4/4/19 changed exhaust from the cat back and the downstream o2 sensor. Last night changed oil in it and pulled out my power steering reservoir. Drained it, cleaned it installed it and bled it. Now it sounds even better! Also sprayed some degreaser and sprayed it all off to track down a gremlin leak.
Currently working on prepping a second hand bumper to get it ready for paint to replace my jacked up one (PO hit something with it) finally found one in a boneyard with no body damage!

 

[Mark_BC]

New tires went on yesterday so some additional trimming was needed. Went from 285/70/17 KO’s to 285/75/17 KO2’s.

I'm generally not a fan of the later model rims on 3rd gens. Except for those snowflakes and the 7 spoke trail rims, they look great. Do those need spacers or anything?

 

[Dezert4Runner]

I'm generally not a fan of the later model rims on 3rd gens. Except for those snowflakes and the 7 spoke trail rims, they look great. Do those need spacers or anything?

I’ve been running Spidertrax ever since I had 265/75/16’s in the stock 5 stars, but my guess is the spacers would still be necessary to keep these wider tires off the UCA.

 

[MrBob]

There is a squeak at times but other than that it knocks but goes away.

Here is a link to the noise. Some say it is valve knock but it goes away at times
Let me know what your think. Or if you can relate.
Thanks
YouTube


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you ever identify this knock? It doesn't sound good. My sound is more of a chirping than a knock and I have not heard it since outdoor temps have begun to warm up.

 

[evittk10]

Bumper exchange

Took off my ARB bumper. Looking for another bumper. Anyone have suggestions on a bumper that will mount on due to the frame cut for the ARB.

 

[galooph]

Replaced all the door switches as the originals were getting to be a little intermittent. Can't really complain though, after 23 years of service!

 

[FL-Runner]

Brake lights and switch

Replaced my main and third brake lights, installed a new spacer for the brake switch

 

[MaineRunna]

Painted my new 13WL Tundra calipers & new brake drums desert dune metallic pearl to match the body.

 

[MrBob]

Power steering fluid refresh.

After viewing several Youtubes, including Tim’s, I refreshed the fluid in my power steering system.
My cheapo pump from Harbor Freight (7.00) worked perfectly for sucking the fluid out of the reservoir. After refilling the reservoir I started the engine and turned the front wheels lock to lock a few times, then shut down and pumped out the horrid black fluid and added new ATF. After 7 cycles of this the fluid began to come out almost clear. I used two quarts and one more quart would have been better.
The front end was up on jack stands.
It wouldn’t be fair to call this procedure a flush, as no lines were disconnected, so refresh seems more accurate.

 

[fightman80]

Found this today, :doh:

 

[carp73]

Got the 35's on. I was planning on waiting but the 5.29 and 33's was getting annoying. 35's seem to be perfect. No rub so far with normal street use and I was a able to flex it out off road today and it rubs a little but not nearly as bad as I thought it might. I did hammer down the pinch welds at the back of the wheel well and set my lower control arm cams to get max clearance. I think that's all I'm going to do for now

Also re-booted my CV's I got with the manual hub swap. What a pain in the ass that was. Those external c-clips that hold the inboard joint on are impossible to get on and off

And apparently I can't post pics right now. Upload keeps failing...

 

[LittleCaesar]

Oh boy. Nooooooooo! Hopefully this gets fixed soon [MENTION=45027]fightman80[/MENTION].

 

[Hokie-Pokie VT]

Skid Plate

Stock skid plate started to get a little rusty, so I removed it and gave it a good sanding/grinding. Fresh coat of Rustoleum primer and glossy silver. Went for a similar look to the stock skid plates that came on the 3rd gen Sport Edition.

Thoughts?
image by John Smith, on Flickr

 

[repo]

Went to check out an E locker for sale and when I got there I find this. IT STILL DRIVES of course haha. The guy was really cool and let me drive it around to test the locker and it works, but the panhard bar, upper control arms and who knows what else are bent up from a rear collision and I wasn't sure what I would be getting in to with tweaked arm mounts or whatever so decided to pass. Plus the axle was more rusty than I hoped and I'd rather do a full swap with one that's cleaner that mine.

 

[repo]

This is more 'what I did this week':

Front pump seal, rear main seal, new flexplate (done by Toyo Techs in Omaha, great place).

New transfer case shifter bushing. Old one had disintegrated.

Brake fluid flush (Prestone DOT4).

Radiator drain and fill (Valvoline Zerex Toyota).

Oil and filter change (Mobil1 and Toyota filter).

Front differential fluid (Lucas 75w-90).

Transfer case fluid (Lucas 75W-90).

Rear differential fluid (Walmart 80W-90 conventional).

Cleaned out the air filter.

Panhard poly bushings (Strongflex from Sonoran Steel). Not sure if I greased the right areas, I greased the inside of the poly bushing where it has the textures surface, and the face where the poly contacts the axle/frame mount? It doesn't squeak anyway. I used my ball joint separator and a 30mm box wrench to push out the old bushings.

Parking brake relocation from Sonoran Steel.

Front and rear swaybar and endlink bushings (Energy suspension). These fit great. I remember last time I did it a few years ago the front endlink bushings where too big and the rear swaybar didn't fit the Toyota bracket. But these kits fit perfect now.

Gave it a wash and cleaned up the engine compartment and cleaned the battery terminals.

 

[repo]

After viewing several Youtubes, including Tim’s, I refreshed the fluid in my power steering system.
My cheapo pump from Harbor Freight (7.00) worked perfectly for sucking the fluid out of the reservoir. After refilling the reservoir I started the engine and turned the front wheels lock to lock a few times, then shut down and pumped out the horrid black fluid and added new ATF. After 7 cycles of this the fluid began to come out almost clear. I used two quarts and one more quart would have been better.
The front end was up on jack stands.
It wouldn’t be fair to call this procedure a flush, as no lines were disconnected, so refresh seems more accurate.

This is on my to do list, I saw a video where someone sucked the fluid completely out through the return hose with no mess using a Mityvac and no need to turn the steering wheel. I have the Mityvac brake bleeder that works pretty good so I think I might buy the bigger one. YouTube

 

[Ed_C]

Decided to tighten up the alternator belt because it's squealing.

The long bolt that threads perpendicular into #5 ("Adjust bar slider" in the illustration is responsible for the belt tension,it snapped off. #5 itself threads into the alternator and can't be removed while it's in the engine bay :rant:

So I unbolted #4 from the engine side and slid the alternator off. I have to cut off what's left of the long bolt stuck in #5 so I can at unbolt it from the alternator. Long bolt will be replaced with a stainless steel one from Ace Hardware along with a liberal application of antiseize

 

[DaMonkey]

Before and after under hood cleaning...

click to pics

I know I know... my brake fluid needs a flushin'... just did new clutch master and slave, brake is next.

 

[Ed_C]

Before and after under hood cleaning...

click to pics

I know I know... my brake fluid needs a flushin'... just did new clutch master and slave, brake is next.

I noticed a "tee" at the upper radiator hose; gauge sender, fan switch, or both?