What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Last night this showed up at the shop! Alec from TrueNorthFabrications (truenorthfabricationsllc.com) did a great job with the welds and design. i can't wait to paint match and install this bad boy. ill be test fitting this weekend.

IMO, best plated design.

What it looks like -
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buttoned up part 1 of this weeks projects.
Part 1:
Knock sensors and harness ( pain in the arse when doing first time, would be easier 2nd time) ( nice to drive with no codes today)
rescue tape injector harness ( broken shroud gone drivers side)
replace vc gaskets
reconditioned injectors
pcv valve
clean MAF
clean ICV and throttle body
oil change
block heater ( moving to Alaska)
flush cooling system and Toyota red
Deck Plate mod...don't want to debate this..but while housing was out, I thought why not, so I will see for my self..no big deal if its no help.

Part 2 starts tomorrow :
lube driveshafts
trans flush and change my magnafine
power steering flush and reservoir cleaning
new front brake pads (OEM) for my TBU
Maybe LBJ's..Ive got new OEM ones on the shelf, the ones on are about 80k, at least 3/4 of that on forest service gravel roads and light wheeling. It would be one less thing to pack and take and I trust my local alignment shop don't know what I will find in Alaska.
custom roof rack extension for my now full length basket ( was a 3/4)
wash/wax/detail before cramming it full and heading for alaska

Optional part 3 ( can wait till I get to Alaska, leave in 5 days, )
taco whip ( have the parts)
clean blower fan
replace burned out bulbs in center cluster
put stongarm lifts on ( have parts)
mount my light bar ( or as called in Alaska...moose bar)
 
Changed cylinder 4 fuel injector and all spark plugs with ngk brand and cleaned Mass airflow sensor at 331,826....moral of my misfortune lately DO NOT BUY REMANDED FUEL INJECTORS...hope the misfortune is over
 
Changed cylinder 4 fuel injector and all spark plugs with ngk brand and cleaned Mass airflow sensor at 331,826....moral of my misfortune lately DO NOT BUY REMANDED FUEL INJECTORS...hope the misfortune is over
some remans are out there that are junk...in all my years I have seen trash
I know that I was pulling everything apart to do knock sensors and vc gaskets...knock sensors I had to do...vc were ...well im there and 120k since the last time and the had a leak at a half moon.
im tired of doing things two or more times
so I got reman injectors that came across this forum of being a good supplier
figured, im in there..i don't want to do this twice, im old, im beat.
the injectors have been no issue, they were Toyota originals, they were clean, supposedly flow matched and had all new seals
sent my old ones back as cores....so cost me near 30 an injector
worth it...I don't know...but they replaced stock injectors with 200k plus miles that would need seals and I had no issues with the remans
, the pintles on mine it was obvious that flow on pintles was dirty and not equal

pintles are the quirt holes for those that don't know
 
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I'm extending the life of my 'runner by getting another DD. This Subie outback will replace the '04 Civic that was totaled last July. 2.5, 5 speed manual trans so it has the viscous coupler in the rear output for a normal 50/50 torque split with the ability to go from 90/10 to 10/90 ( front to rear) plus it has a Torsen style rear LSD. Overall, it's a pretty nice car with decent cargo room ( for hauling replacement parts for the runner) and it seems to getting 28 MPG on the interstate. That's a nice change!

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I found a 2001 on craigslist all the way in lubbock. It was wrecked with 200k miles on it. He wanted 800$ for it. It has new front CV axles, water pump, and timing chain. I bought a ticket from Austin to Lubbock, flew in and purchased it. I drove it all 7 hours with mostly no issues. The entire passenger side needs to be fixed. So far ive replaced the Front passenger door and fender. Yesterday i was driving and somehow the shock absorber bolt loosened all the way out in the rear. Scary moment. Just ordered a new bolt from grainger. Somehow i have to decompress that shock to get it back on.

Also, when i replaced the door the wiring harness didnt match up. The power mirror wire had a different clip. Not sure how im going to trouble shoot that.
 
First 4runner

Hey everyone I just bought my first 4r, 2002 sr5. I'm hoping to get some good advice and info, anything I can learn about these trucks would be appreciated. But more specifically right now ive noticed when im driving mine seems to "float" or sway a bit and also shakes more than I think it should at 70mph? I do need new tires, but I was wondering what suspension should start to be replaced if everything is original? What tires are best for 80-90% road life but also wanna be able to go discover (hiking, fishing, camping) locations at least 10-15%? Can I fit 32"s on the 02 4r and what's my mpg gonna look like? Are there any other glaringly obvious things I should be checking out with my new(old) girl? Timing belt and water pump done at 130k she now has 200k. Thanks for your patience in advance!
 
Hey everyone I just bought my first 4r, 2002 sr5. I'm hoping to get some good advice and info, anything I can learn about these trucks would be appreciated. But more specifically right now ive noticed when im driving mine seems to "float" or sway a bit and also shakes more than I think it should at 70mph? I do need new tires, but I was wondering what suspension should start to be replaced if everything is original? What tires are best for 80-90% road life but also wanna be able to go discover (hiking, fishing, camping) locations at least 10-15%? Can I fit 32"s on the 02 4r and what's my mpg gonna look like? Are there any other glaringly obvious things I should be checking out with my new(old) girl? Timing belt and water pump done at 130k she now has 200k. Thanks for your patience in advance!
I'm told 31" is the biggest you can go w/o spacers/lift. As far as the float the easiest thing is to take it to an trusted alignment shop and have them align it and if they are good they will tell you what's wrong. Otherwise get under it and pry/shake/ have someone turn the wheel back & forth and look for movement on the steering and suspension parts and joints. Look up ball joint failure threads, use OEM only to replace. If it's an automatic check how old the radiator is and if over 5 years replace it with a Denso. Get a scan gauge Ultra to monitor the engine temp as the overheating light only comes on after you need a new engine.
There's plenty in the "3rd Gen Informational Threads --- A MUST READ For New Members " thread at the front of this section to keep you busy reading for quite a while ! Congratulations and post some picture of your new rig !!
 
Also, when i replaced the door the wiring harness didnt match up. The power mirror wire had a different clip. Not sure how im going to trouble shoot that.

Did you get the replacement door from a '99-02? Earlier models ('96-98) had three pin mirror connectors, the newer ones had five-pin (for the mirror heaters).
 
Over the last week I have replaced the front brakes, gas tank strap and rear sway bar end link. And now just yesterday my hatch stopped opening so I'm gonna rip into that tonight and see whats going on. I guess you can only ask for so much from a 21 year old truck that cost me $2500.
 
Did you get the replacement door from a '99-02? Earlier models ('96-98) had three pin mirror connectors, the newer ones had five-pin (for the mirror heaters).

Im not sure. The pick a part place didnt give me the year. I didnt even pull the mirror and the door. They pull the parts for you. The mirror and door didnt come from the same vehicle (paint doesnt match). The door also didnt come with the inner panel. Which means i have to use the original power buttons. But looking at it the mirror has 5 pins/wires, which doesnt match up to harness (which has 3). I think what i have to do is pull the window regulator from the original door and use the original wire harness. I have to pull the original window regulator bc with the original harness the connectors dont match. PITA!
 
Im not sure. The pick a part place didnt give me the year. I didnt even pull the mirror and the door. They pull the parts for you. The mirror and door didnt come from the same vehicle (paint doesnt match). The door also didnt come with the inner panel. Which means i have to use the original power buttons. But looking at it the mirror has 5 pins/wires, which doesnt match up to harness (which has 3). I think what i have to do is pull the window regulator from the original door and use the original wire harness. I have to pull the original window regulator bc with the original harness the connectors dont match. PITA!

Right, your '02 door harness has the 5 pin connector at the mirror, and you got a '98 or earlier door harness (with 3 pins).

I installed '99 heated mirrors into my '97, and did the conversion of the wiring harness connector from 3 pins to 5 pins. If I recall correctly, the harnesses have other significant differences (other than the 5 vs 3 pin mirror connector), so you cannot easily use an early harness in a later vehicle. I know that because I took the entire '99 door harness with the mirror, planning to use it in my '97, but the connectors at the body were completely different. So I used the earlier harness, and ran two additional wires for the mirror heater.

So I agree, your best bet is to pull the original harness from the damaged door, and put it into the new door. It's a pain, but probably the easiest path forward at this point.
 
Cleaned the engine bay and roadtrip gunk

After multiple road trips this Spring, the bugs, rock chips and a windshield crack added up and the ride was a mess. Decided to do a deep clean and started today with the engine bay and the front clip. Saw some posts on here regarding best steps, and I finally have a power washer, so overall it was easy. The pictures may not show much of a difference but in person it looks great. Not bad for a 20 year old vehicle!

Cleaner: Simple Green
Power Washer
Finish: Stoner Trim Spray
 

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Right, your '02 door harness has the 5 pin connector at the mirror, and you got a '98 or earlier door harness (with 3 pins).

I installed '99 heated mirrors into my '97, and did the conversion of the wiring harness connector from 3 pins to 5 pins. If I recall correctly, the harnesses have other significant differences (other than the 5 vs 3 pin mirror connector), so you cannot easily use an early harness in a later vehicle. I know that because I took the entire '99 door harness with the mirror, planning to use it in my '97, but the connectors at the body were completely different. So I used the earlier harness, and ran two additional wires for the mirror heater.

So I agree, your best bet is to pull the original harness from the damaged door, and put it into the new door. It's a pain, but probably the easiest path forward at this point.

Well i switched everything out that needed to be. Put everything back together. Only to realize i didnt change the handle assembly on the outside. FML.
 
Sound

Today I tackled installing some sound. Kenwood Excelon DDX9905S, ARC AUDIO KS amplifiers, Focal Expert series seperates, and two JL Audio 10w3's.

Tore everything out down to the sheet metal. Dynomatted the floor, doors and used Foil-Grip to hold down all the wires. No rattles for this 4Runner. Hope to put it all back together by tomorrow.
 
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