What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[Wedgy]

Odd thing happened 2 weeks ago on a road trip, ABS light came on after I shifted out of 4WD then a few minutes later the cruise control turned off when I used the turn signal. No other issues until about 150 miles later with the AC on the tach dropped to zero. Drove it 4 days later for an hour around town and everything was fine. 5 days later(sunday) I drove it 3 places 15 minutes apart and it started fine each time but on the way back it lost power and the speedometer and tach dropped to zero while going 40 mph, would idle but nothing when I stepped on the gas so I pulled over and looked under the hood and it wouldn't restart, dead battery. Strange as I have a ~1.5 year old Interstate. Good thing I had the Genius Boost GB70 still in the car from the camping trip, it fired right up. Then it died after about 4 miles and I jumped it again repeating this 4 times to get home, recharging the battery a bit each time. So the stories about cheap remanufactured alternators are true, the OP had installed a Pro Start 1.5 years and ~3,000 miles ago so it is a POS. I charged the battery sunday night and it read 12.6 Volts Tuesday, when started with lights and AC on the was 10.2 and dropping slowly. I ordered a reman Denso($110 + $34 core) from Rock Sunday night and had it Tuesday afternoon(added $7 to the shipping for 2 day= $14 total) and installed last night. I knew it was going to be hard to get it in the bracket as the old one had to be tapped on with a wooden block and the new one was .003" wider. There is a metal sleeve in the holding bracket that can be pressed outwards to give some space(see socket and bolt pic). Other than that it went in fine, pretty straight forward. There was never any slow cranking, charging light(if it has one) or any other signs of a low battery until it died. I have to say I was skeptical of the battery boosters and did a ton of research before I bought one but this thing started it 6 times from a dead battery, click only, wouldn't come close to turning over, and it was still at 100% charge. Hope I have better luck with this Denso

 

[marcus clarkus]

I knew it was going to be hard to get it in the bracket as the old one had to be tapped on with a wooden block and the new one was .003" wider. There is a metal sleeve in the holding bracket that can be pressed outwards to give some space(see socket and bolt pic).

Pushing that sleeve outwards before putting the alternator back in saved me so much time. I remember watching the video from [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] where they struggled to get the alternator back in and thought “there’s got to be a trick that full time mechanics use for that.” Sure enough, this video shows it around the 2:30 mark.
YouTube

 

[cstmg8]

Replaced the bad battery after not driving it since last fall and she fired right up!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Wedgy]

Pushing that sleeve outwards before putting the alternator back in saved me so much time. I remember watching the video from [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] where they struggled to get the alternator back in and thought “there’s got to be a trick that full time mechanics use for that.” Sure enough, this video shows it around the 2:30 mark.
YouTube

I looked for a video from Timmy but only found one for replacing the brushes. This was my solution(pic), pretty sure I learned from pressing control arm bushings.

 

[pechep]

California 1998 T4R auto 4wd. Love the car but I've had it sitting in my driveway for a few years because of health issues. A while back I went to smog it and knowing my luck it failed due to high Nox. Lately I've looked over some diagnostics of the O2 Sensors I've replaced. I've had no CEL's, like ever, but my catalyst efficiency monitor hasn't checked out over 3+ drive cycles. The front and back of the cat is the same temp at any state. O2 Sensor reading before and after new sensors has been the same before and after replacing them. Due to the year of the car I also only have 1 cat. It's going on over 350k Miles, been looking for replacement cat(s). Anyways, I slapped some Faulken Wilkpeak AT3's on, and so far love them on road, looking forward to 4wheelin' in a few months.

 

[brianjasinski2003]

I called to find out when my TNF bumper is ready

 

[Bad Luck]

I got a new phone (iPhone SE 2020 128gb) and as usual that led to other new things. I "needed" a new head unit with bluetooth due to no aux port now. Old aftermarket radio didn't have bluetooth. Went with a Kenwood Excelon KMM-X503. Since I had a phone that could now do wireless charging I thought I would try to get a wireless charging phone mount. Bought this din switch plate 1st Gen Tacoma Din Switch plate (6 switch holes)



– Paranoid Fabrications but got it custom made with only the 3 rocker switch holes on the right. Mounted this ball mount to the blank spot AMPS Pattern to 20mm Aluminum Ball | Tackform then used this arm Enduro Arm 20mm Socket to 20 Socket - 100mm Modular | Tackform and finally used this adapter ball Aluminum Double Ball Shaft - 17mm to 20mm - Tackform to go from 20mm to 17mm ball. That allowed me to mount this wireless charger from Anker Amazon.com: Anker Wireless Charger, PowerWave 7.5 Car Charger with Air Vent Phone Holder, 7.5W for iPhone 11, 11 Pro, 11 Pro Max, 10W for Galaxy S10 S9 S8, Note 10 Note 9 (Quick Charge Car Charger Included): Home Audio & Theater. There is a little bit of shake when you hit bumps but I think I'll be able to live with it.

 

[Dezert4Runner]

I got a new phone (iPhone SE 2020 128gb) and as usual that led to other new things. I "needed" a new head unit with bluetooth due to no aux port now. Old aftermarket radio didn't have bluetooth. Went with a Kenwood Excelon KMM-X503. Since I had a phone that could now do wireless charging I thought I would try to get a wireless charging phone mount. Spent waaaaaaaaaaay too much money achieving this, but I'm very pleased with the results. Bought this din switch plate 1st Gen Tacoma Din Switch plate (6 switch holes)



– Paranoid Fabrications but got it custom made with only the 3 rocker switch holes on the right. Mounted this ball mount to the blank spot AMPS Pattern to 20mm Aluminum Ball | Tackform then used this arm Enduro Arm 20mm Socket to 20 Socket - 100mm Modular | Tackform and finally used this adapter ball Aluminum Double Ball Shaft - 17mm to 20mm - Tackform to go from 20mm to 17mm ball. That allowed me to mount this wireless charger from Anker Amazon.com: Anker Wireless Charger, PowerWave 7.5 Car Charger with Air Vent Phone Holder, 7.5W for iPhone 11, 11 Pro, 11 Pro Max, 10W for Galaxy S10 S9 S8, Note 10 Note 9 (Quick Charge Car Charger Included): Home Audio & Theater. I think it all turned out great. There is a little bit of shake when you hit bumps but I think I'll be able to live with it. I may try to switch the radio to below the din switch plate eventually.

I’d like to see some photos of your setup. I essentially did the same thing with the Paranoid Fab bracket. I had mine made sans the 2 outer cutouts which were left solid aluminum. I drilled holes for the Ram ball studs as close to the mounting brackets as possible while still allowing room for the Ram mounts to swivel, but still get a little bit of shake.

 

[shazbot]

found a new non transponder plastic key and got some strongarm 6815s

 

[Bad Luck]

I’d like to see some photos of your setup. I essentially did the same thing with the Paranoid Fab bracket. I had mine made sans the 2 outer cutouts which were left solid aluminum. I drilled holes for the Ram ball studs as close to the mounting brackets as possible while still allowing room for the Ram mounts to swivel, but still get a little bit of shake.

It's a bit more shake than I would like and most of it seems to be coming from the Paranoid Fabs bracket. The aluminum allows it to flex quite a bit. I could try a shorter arm, but that would put my phone lower than I would like. I'm using a bit of 8lb fishing line to tension the arm towards the vents and that seems to help some. I think a small bungee cord would work better, but I think the best solution would be to find a miniature ratchet strap to allow for best tension adjustment and add a bracket that comes out above the ac controls to attach the strap to.

 

[Dezert4Runner]

It's a bit more shake than I would like and most of it seems to be coming from the Paranoid Fabs bracket. The aluminum allows it to flex quite a bit. I could try a shorter arm, but that would put my phone lower than I would like. I'm using a bit of 8lb fishing line to tension the arm towards the vents and that seems to help some. I think a small bungee cord would work better, but I think the best solution would be to find a miniature ratchet strap to allow for best tension adjustment and add a bracket that comes out above the ac controls to attach the strap to.

The leverage of the longer arms make any deflection magnified. I have some 2” angle aluminum (3/16”?) I was going to use to reinforce the back side of the bracket, that way it makes the front corners of the panel rigid and won’t allow it to flex. Had that project on my to do list for a couple years now lol!

 

[Bad Luck]

The leverage of the longer arms make any deflection magnified. I have some 2” angle aluminum (3/16”?) I was going to use to reinforce the back side of the bracket, that way it makes the front corners of the panel rigid and won’t allow it to flex. Had that project on my to do list for a couple years now lol!

Magnified for sure. I've noticed quite a bit of movement in the face of the paranoid fabrications bracket on a vertical plane but also horizontally. Still trying to troubleshoot this some more before giving up.

 

[calebb]

Gutted my interior, found some rust, taken care of that and cleaning out the crap from underneath the carpets. Anybody know where to get oem factory paint color without buying a whole gallon? Maybe even in a spray can form?

 

[SamSquantchT4R]

Cheap thrills, new console lid

 

[clearock]

 

[T4R2014]

When 5% tints just aren't enough.

 

[Bad Luck]

View attachment 360666

Why did you do that? Looks awesome

 

[Hardizzy]

View attachment 360666

Why? Are you turning your rig into a tornado/storm chaser? Valuable cargo? I need to know.

 

[clearock]

Why? Are you turning your rig into a tornado/storm chaser? Valuable cargo? I need to know.

Once u c the pics of the surplus .50 machine gun, I picked up from my local military armory during the buy 1 get 1 free fire sale, i have mounted in the sunroof location u'll understand... J/J

It's 4 my latest business venture. Given resent events, demand 4 bat meat has reached an all-time high, being the good world citizen I am I felt it was my duty to provided fully cooked bats... I developed the 4RBatsmoker3000... Now, now hear me out, its not what u think or maybe it is... So, being bats like dark places to sleep, all i have to do is leave the back hatch open slightly and the bats fly in to rest and land on the metal rods I have placed based on a scientific bat nesting algorithm (i developed using my speck and spell) pattern pending. Now here's where the closed off windows come in, I piped my exhaust directly into the cab of the 4runner, when I get up in the morning and head into work the bats will slowly get tenderized by the carbon monoxide, the sun beating down onto the metal "windows" will finish off the cooking. By lunchtime u have a fully cooked aids rat ready to serve on a stick... Now I know what ur asking and YES u can get in on the ground floor of this up and coming business before it takes off and u missed ur opportunity. 4 a nominal fee i can convert ur 4runner
into a T4Rbatsmoker3000...

 

[Hewgs]

Loud Noises when turning

Hey Guys - i joined the forum a few months ago but have not been very active. I let my 4runner sit through the winter as i dont have a garage or a place to work on it. It has been beautiful weather and now i can get to work.

So here is what i am running into and i will try to describe it as best as possible.

My 4runner is making a terrible clunk when I turn very tightly in either direction. The clunk is coming from the rear - I have checked it over with 4 different people. there is absolutely no noise when driving straight, it accelerates beautifully, but if i need to make a tight U-turn in either direction it starts to click and then turns into a loud clunk at the apex of the turn. A few things worth noting:

I had to remove my rear sway bar as i broke two of the bolts when trying to reinstall - it is not attached to frame at the moment and i have heard this can cause issues while turning

This clunk only happens when coasting - if i push on the acceleration everything tracks as normal. However, as soon as i let off the gas the inside rear wheel seems to start binding.

Not sure if this makes any sense but I would greatly appreciate any feedback - i would like to see if i can maybe diagnose this without taking it in somewhere. Cheers!