What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
- Thread starter pin8246
- Start date
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Looking good! What kind of poke are you getting with Wildpeaks? I hear they are overall wider than most 285's...Got new socks and shoes...
Previous
17x7 +15 5th gen 4runner wheel
1" spacer
255/75R17 Goodyear Duratrac
to 16x8 -10 Level 8 MK6
No spacer
285/75R16 Falken Wildpeak AT/3
Fiffa
Member
Danke! It's maybe an extra 1/2" compared to the Duratracs. The way the offset was from before, they essentially had the same centerline on the hubs. This website was what helped me make the call on the -10 offset with no spacers rather than the 0 offset with the 1" spacers:
Wheel Offset Calculator
I just put in JBA UCA's, so I think it would've been really tight on the inside with the stock ones in there. I was shocked that my initial fender trimming for the Duratracs was enough for these guys! lol
norcalassassin
New member
Yes and no, the roof sheet metal and sunroof were removed. The body is reinforced with aluminum sheet and plate. Also internal roll bar
Single or twin?
G_Raw
New member
Minor things I've been neglecting. Broke my battery tie down bolt. So I retapped it and put a new bolt in. Snapped a bolt I used to mount my arb compressor in the engine bay. So I tack welded a nut to underside of fender and made a rubber sleeve to absorb vibrations and protect the stud from the 1 inch of open space between the compressor mount foot and the curve of the fender where it's mounted in engine bay. Cleaned air filter. Swapped wiper blades since rainy season is coming.
Hello everyone
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Last edited:
G_Raw
New member
Hello everyone
We've been looking at one of these in pretty good shape for my dad for $6000. He offered the guy $4500 and they counter offered $5500. I did some reading on the forums and it seems $4000 = good; $6000 = high. So, question 1, is this guy going to be able to easily sell this for $6000?
Second question is the question I always ask on forums before buying a new vehicle. You know, don't buy a 2000 Celica or 2002 Camry because they burn oil, etc. So, question 2, what are the main faults of a 2000 V6 4Runner?
Question 3: just out of curiosity, is there a way to tell on Craigslist listings if a 4Runner is 4WD?
Thanks!
1: Depends on your area. Here in the Bay Area 6k is close to starting for listing.
2. Depends on previous owners care and maint. Various things come to mind, just like any vehicle. Folks worry about pink milk shake. Check trans fluid and clean shifting. Check valve covers for leaking. Depending on your area rust. Etc. Normal things like that.
3. 2 shifters tells you it's 4wd
Last edited:
Pics of compressor mount?
99blkx
New member
Kept on with reassembly of the front end. Stripped one of the 4 ball joint bolts on the passenger side so disassembled and am ordering all new hardware tomorrow. Lame.
Also... ordered a new steering rack which comes with inner tie rods. Also ordered new outers. Realized I now don't have jam nuts because Toyota (and aftermarket companies for these trucks) puts the jam nuts with the inners. Farking dumb.
I'm a new owner of a 99 and it's my first 4Runner. I did a lot of searching for common issues and this site proved quite valuable. I just torn into it and I'm replacing ball joints, steering rack, etc. It has 270k miles, not much maintenance history aside from a timing belt sticker at 218k, and has been well loved. I paid $4100 here in the PNW and sold $800 of bits it came with so not bad.
We need a lot more details about what you're looking at and for to help. As mentioned, look at interior pics and look for the 4wd shifter. Easiest way to see.
Also... ordered a new steering rack which comes with inner tie rods. Also ordered new outers. Realized I now don't have jam nuts because Toyota (and aftermarket companies for these trucks) puts the jam nuts with the inners. Farking dumb.
Hello everyone
We've been looking at one of these in pretty good shape for my dad for $6000. He offered the guy $4500 and they counter offered $5500. I did some reading on the forums and it seems $4000 = good; $6000 = high. So, question 1, is this guy going to be able to easily sell this for $6000?
Second question is the question I always ask on forums before buying a new vehicle. You know, don't buy a 2000 Celica or 2002 Camry because they burn oil, etc. So, question 2, what are the main faults of a 2000 V6 4Runner?
Question 3: just out of curiosity, is there a way to tell on Craigslist listings if a 4Runner is 4WD?
Thanks!
I'm a new owner of a 99 and it's my first 4Runner. I did a lot of searching for common issues and this site proved quite valuable. I just torn into it and I'm replacing ball joints, steering rack, etc. It has 270k miles, not much maintenance history aside from a timing belt sticker at 218k, and has been well loved. I paid $4100 here in the PNW and sold $800 of bits it came with so not bad.
We need a lot more details about what you're looking at and for to help. As mentioned, look at interior pics and look for the 4wd shifter. Easiest way to see.
JBurt
Senior Member
Hi Zoripadu. Welcome to the board!
All your answers can be found in this thread, which has gotten quite long over the years! But only the first few pages are really critical
3rd Gen 4Runner Buyer's Guide
In short though
1) Price really depends on area. $6000 for a 4x4 in good shape with low miles could go fast in Socal.
2) The 3.4v6 is a really really good engine. The two biggest problems in my opinion are the transmission oil cooler failing and getting coolant into the tranny which destroys it, and the lower ball joints failing catastrophically. Both can be taken care of preventatively and aren't hard jobs. Just replace the radiator (~$100) or bypass the OE cooler with an external one, and you can replace the lower ball joints, (I'd recommend OEM, I personally didn't have good luck with parts store brands). The OEM ones aer $200-300 per pair.
The other thing is that most of these engines are due for a timing belt replacement, but it's not an interference engine so you'e got that going for you.
3) Easiest way to tell if it's a 4x4 is look for the transfer case lever. Some have badges on the back, some don't. Depending on the pictures you can look for front axles too.
Good luck. I'm sure your dad will enjoy it!
All your answers can be found in this thread, which has gotten quite long over the years! But only the first few pages are really critical
3rd Gen 4Runner Buyer's Guide
In short though
1) Price really depends on area. $6000 for a 4x4 in good shape with low miles could go fast in Socal.
2) The 3.4v6 is a really really good engine. The two biggest problems in my opinion are the transmission oil cooler failing and getting coolant into the tranny which destroys it, and the lower ball joints failing catastrophically. Both can be taken care of preventatively and aren't hard jobs. Just replace the radiator (~$100) or bypass the OE cooler with an external one, and you can replace the lower ball joints, (I'd recommend OEM, I personally didn't have good luck with parts store brands). The OEM ones aer $200-300 per pair.
The other thing is that most of these engines are due for a timing belt replacement, but it's not an interference engine so you'e got that going for you.
3) Easiest way to tell if it's a 4x4 is look for the transfer case lever. Some have badges on the back, some don't. Depending on the pictures you can look for front axles too.
Good luck. I'm sure your dad will enjoy it!
shawnathan9
New member
Bilstein 5100/OME 880
After having my Amazon order misdelivered/ stolen, I luckily found a seller and picked up a pair of Bilstein 5100 and OME 880 along with some hardware to manage the install. *I ran into quite a few hardware issues which was caused by using KYB mount plates and my lack of having a good c-clamp to compress the shock bushings to install
On late Tuesday evening, after work, I started to compress my OME 880's and then installed the first coil onto the 5100.
Bilstein 5100
<a href="https://ibb.co/rQqc8zC"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/wd8wGP9/20201208-105800.jpg" alt="20201208-105800" border="0"></a>
OME 880
<a href="https://ibb.co/XxxWP8r"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/CKKwy23/20201208-110330.jpg" alt="20201208-110330" border="0"></a>
I started to compress the springs and this was going just fine:
<a href="https://ibb.co/khQt4ms"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/brzksbM/20201208-115835.jpg" alt="20201208-115835" border="0"></a>
I totally blanked out as I was watching a movie while doing this and I placed the ring on the 4th perch!!! - I was having a hell of a time compressing the coil; my lack of sleep made my really not focus on the reality of what I was doing. By the time I figured this out, I had already uncompressed my coil to the shock as you can see in this picture:
<a href="https://ibb.co/QCGBbkX"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/D8nXVYL/20201208-235743.jpg" alt="20201208-235743" border="0"></a>
As I was taking this photo, I was not considerate of the perch and began to decompress the coil onto the shock:
<a href="https://ibb.co/J2yYZkd"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/1KdCc2n/20201208-235745.jpg" alt="20201208-235745" border="0"></a>
I spent about an hour going through the ordeal of re-compressing the spring and then removing it from the shock, and then decompressing the spring once I adjusted the perch settings correctly.
Later on, I ran into an issue installing the Bilstein bushings as there was little to no room to screw on the nut to the top of the shock. I had to McGyver my way through it using clamps and made it work.
Here's a pic of the previous owners work: He installed 3" spacers on the front:
<a href="https://ibb.co/z4QL4jt"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/d5j351H/20201209-124154.jpg" alt="20201209-124154" border="0"></a>
Out with the old. In with the new:
<a href="https://ibb.co/YD78X8c"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/db06t6P/20201210-145019.jpg" alt="20201210-145019" border="0"></a>
After having my Amazon order misdelivered/ stolen, I luckily found a seller and picked up a pair of Bilstein 5100 and OME 880 along with some hardware to manage the install. *I ran into quite a few hardware issues which was caused by using KYB mount plates and my lack of having a good c-clamp to compress the shock bushings to install
On late Tuesday evening, after work, I started to compress my OME 880's and then installed the first coil onto the 5100.
Bilstein 5100
<a href="https://ibb.co/rQqc8zC"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/wd8wGP9/20201208-105800.jpg" alt="20201208-105800" border="0"></a>
OME 880
<a href="https://ibb.co/XxxWP8r"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/CKKwy23/20201208-110330.jpg" alt="20201208-110330" border="0"></a>
I started to compress the springs and this was going just fine:
<a href="https://ibb.co/khQt4ms"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/brzksbM/20201208-115835.jpg" alt="20201208-115835" border="0"></a>
I totally blanked out as I was watching a movie while doing this and I placed the ring on the 4th perch!!! - I was having a hell of a time compressing the coil; my lack of sleep made my really not focus on the reality of what I was doing. By the time I figured this out, I had already uncompressed my coil to the shock as you can see in this picture:
<a href="https://ibb.co/QCGBbkX"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/D8nXVYL/20201208-235743.jpg" alt="20201208-235743" border="0"></a>
As I was taking this photo, I was not considerate of the perch and began to decompress the coil onto the shock:
<a href="https://ibb.co/J2yYZkd"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/1KdCc2n/20201208-235745.jpg" alt="20201208-235745" border="0"></a>
I spent about an hour going through the ordeal of re-compressing the spring and then removing it from the shock, and then decompressing the spring once I adjusted the perch settings correctly.
Later on, I ran into an issue installing the Bilstein bushings as there was little to no room to screw on the nut to the top of the shock. I had to McGyver my way through it using clamps and made it work.
Here's a pic of the previous owners work: He installed 3" spacers on the front:
<a href="https://ibb.co/z4QL4jt"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/d5j351H/20201209-124154.jpg" alt="20201209-124154" border="0"></a>
Out with the old. In with the new:
<a href="https://ibb.co/YD78X8c"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/db06t6P/20201210-145019.jpg" alt="20201210-145019" border="0"></a>
Last edited:
Starting cleaning up some of the awful faux wood garbage. OFC you can't really get it off w/o damaging the pieces so I decided to sand it down and try my hand at some carbon fiber wrap. I'm reasonably sure after some research that the stuff I bought was counterfeit because it didn't behave like true 3M vinyl should have so the job didn't turn out too good but I've ordered a new batch of 3m vinyl from a more reputable online source and will probably end up redoing this. At any rate, it still looks way better.
<a href="https://imgur.com/M8eHKUr"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/M8eHKUrl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/G2Q1ICF"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/G2Q1ICFl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/e4T7JB5"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/e4T7JB5l.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/M8eHKUr"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/M8eHKUrl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/G2Q1ICF"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/G2Q1ICFl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/e4T7JB5"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/e4T7JB5l.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
shawnathan9
New member
Replaced old Upper and Lower Balljoints
I just purchased this '96 from a guy who had the truck for a few months and looks like he put on a cheap lift kit which compromised the boot of the upper balljoints. The lower balljoints looked to have been there for a while and didn't show much issues but I don't know the history of how this truck was driven and so I decided to replace them.
Dismantling the front end. I noticed that the someone had recently replaced the Tie rods as the rod, boot, castle nut, and retaining wire was pretty new:
<a href="https://ibb.co/2ctydVs"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/6DPmF91/20201209-122528.jpg" alt="20201209-122528" border="0"></a>
I used a OTC puller set which made the job a breeze. On the upper ball joint, I used this puller and rigged electric tape around it to prevent it from kicking back when the upper ball joint pops out of place. It worked like a charm:
<a href="https://ibb.co/QQxK7hx"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/nmKLq4K/20201209-124151.jpg" alt="20201209-124151" border="0"></a>
Here's a picture of the whole knuckle, removed, and the lower ball joint boot looks okay, there was no play, but I've decided to proceed with the replacement for peace of mind:
<a href="https://ibb.co/wpZkPRX"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/DwPJvty/20201209-124156.jpg" alt="20201209-124156" border="0"></a>
This is the condition of the upper ball joint and the main reason why I've removed the knuckle so I have better leverage to press it out on a vice:
<a href="https://ibb.co/8KJwCZD"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/cgP9Bnc/20201209-124242.jpg" alt="20201209-124242" border="0"></a>
Upon removing the boot and inspecting it, the ball joint appeared in good condition and could've used a reboot kit but I already committed to replacing it so I might save it for a reboot kit project later on:
<a href="https://ibb.co/Twy2Tm2"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/fXJFS4F/20201209-125126.jpg" alt="20201209-125126" border="0"></a>
I have a Makita impact driver but there wasn't enough torque to move the press; Using a press without an impact driver was one hell of a workout:
<a href="https://ibb.co/1RJ53HD"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/bNRZxpS/20201209-125843.jpg" alt="20201209-125843" border="0"></a>
Here we go, I finally popped that sucker out:
<a href="https://ibb.co/GPdCW7s"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/Jkcrvnx/20201209-130755.jpg" alt="20201209-130755" border="0"></a>
Once I pressed in the upper ball joint, I removed the lower ball joint and then I realized that the flange bolts were not ordered and so I had to place a call to Magnussen Toyota to order them for the next day:faint2:
<a href="https://ibb.co/87NJRtb"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/FDm9fCX/20201209-133750.jpg" alt="20201209-133750" border="0"></a>
I decided to proceed and use the old bolts only to hold them in firmly until I received the new flange bolts. *From here, I began to work on the driver side knuckle and noticed that upper ball joint was functional, boot was intact, and so I did not remove that knuckle.
Instead, I decided to remove the lower ball joint while the knuckle was still on:
<a href="https://ibb.co/hW1z8QY"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/yyBjsv4/20201210-145016.jpg" alt="20201210-145016" border="0"></a>
This morning, I received my flange bolts and started to prep them and began the install:
<a href="https://ibb.co/jywTPSN"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/K2sXpJP/20201210-145014.jpg" alt="20201210-145014" border="0"></a>
*Remember to double check your torque specs. I had inadvertently used the castle nut torque spec for two of the flange bolts before I ended up questing why the hell am I torqueing this so tight and then the second bolt SNAPPED OFF!
I had to disassemble the entire knuckle and bring it to my work table. Luckily, it was the one that had a bolt end sticking up and so I was able to get a pair of vice grips and twist it through the other end. I was just thinking how luck I was that it didn't happen to the ones closest to the brake/dust cover. :reddance:
I just called Toyota to order two more flange bolts which I'll be picking up tomorrow. For now, I've installed 3 sets on each lower ball joint and 1 set of the old flange bolts (no loctite) until the replacements arrive tomorrow.
*Update, all is well now as I received the 2 flange bolts and torqued to spec.
I love what you do for me...Toyota!!!
I just purchased this '96 from a guy who had the truck for a few months and looks like he put on a cheap lift kit which compromised the boot of the upper balljoints. The lower balljoints looked to have been there for a while and didn't show much issues but I don't know the history of how this truck was driven and so I decided to replace them.
Dismantling the front end. I noticed that the someone had recently replaced the Tie rods as the rod, boot, castle nut, and retaining wire was pretty new:
<a href="https://ibb.co/2ctydVs"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/6DPmF91/20201209-122528.jpg" alt="20201209-122528" border="0"></a>
I used a OTC puller set which made the job a breeze. On the upper ball joint, I used this puller and rigged electric tape around it to prevent it from kicking back when the upper ball joint pops out of place. It worked like a charm:
<a href="https://ibb.co/QQxK7hx"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/nmKLq4K/20201209-124151.jpg" alt="20201209-124151" border="0"></a>
Here's a picture of the whole knuckle, removed, and the lower ball joint boot looks okay, there was no play, but I've decided to proceed with the replacement for peace of mind:
<a href="https://ibb.co/wpZkPRX"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/DwPJvty/20201209-124156.jpg" alt="20201209-124156" border="0"></a>
This is the condition of the upper ball joint and the main reason why I've removed the knuckle so I have better leverage to press it out on a vice:
<a href="https://ibb.co/8KJwCZD"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/cgP9Bnc/20201209-124242.jpg" alt="20201209-124242" border="0"></a>
Upon removing the boot and inspecting it, the ball joint appeared in good condition and could've used a reboot kit but I already committed to replacing it so I might save it for a reboot kit project later on:
<a href="https://ibb.co/Twy2Tm2"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/fXJFS4F/20201209-125126.jpg" alt="20201209-125126" border="0"></a>
I have a Makita impact driver but there wasn't enough torque to move the press; Using a press without an impact driver was one hell of a workout:
<a href="https://ibb.co/1RJ53HD"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/bNRZxpS/20201209-125843.jpg" alt="20201209-125843" border="0"></a>
Here we go, I finally popped that sucker out:
<a href="https://ibb.co/GPdCW7s"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/Jkcrvnx/20201209-130755.jpg" alt="20201209-130755" border="0"></a>
Once I pressed in the upper ball joint, I removed the lower ball joint and then I realized that the flange bolts were not ordered and so I had to place a call to Magnussen Toyota to order them for the next day:faint2:
<a href="https://ibb.co/87NJRtb"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/FDm9fCX/20201209-133750.jpg" alt="20201209-133750" border="0"></a>
I decided to proceed and use the old bolts only to hold them in firmly until I received the new flange bolts. *From here, I began to work on the driver side knuckle and noticed that upper ball joint was functional, boot was intact, and so I did not remove that knuckle.
Instead, I decided to remove the lower ball joint while the knuckle was still on:
<a href="https://ibb.co/hW1z8QY"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/yyBjsv4/20201210-145016.jpg" alt="20201210-145016" border="0"></a>
This morning, I received my flange bolts and started to prep them and began the install:
<a href="https://ibb.co/jywTPSN"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/K2sXpJP/20201210-145014.jpg" alt="20201210-145014" border="0"></a>
*Remember to double check your torque specs. I had inadvertently used the castle nut torque spec for two of the flange bolts before I ended up questing why the hell am I torqueing this so tight and then the second bolt SNAPPED OFF!
I had to disassemble the entire knuckle and bring it to my work table. Luckily, it was the one that had a bolt end sticking up and so I was able to get a pair of vice grips and twist it through the other end. I was just thinking how luck I was that it didn't happen to the ones closest to the brake/dust cover. :reddance:
I just called Toyota to order two more flange bolts which I'll be picking up tomorrow. For now, I've installed 3 sets on each lower ball joint and 1 set of the old flange bolts (no loctite) until the replacements arrive tomorrow.
*Update, all is well now as I received the 2 flange bolts and torqued to spec.
I love what you do for me...Toyota!!!
Last edited:
shawnathan9
New member
Also installed a Rack and Pinion bushing kit
Amongst other things I did today, I also installed an Energy Suspension Rack and Pinion bushing kit:
<img src="https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/ens-8-10103r_ml.jpg" border="0">
I had one hell of a time figuring out how to free up slack in order to move the center retaining bolt from it's mount but I learned that there's a steering fluid line bolt that is mounted to the frame right on the drivers side and that gave me enough slack. Then, I was able to move it forward enough to use a press and push out the middle bushing. Get ready for a blurry photo:
<a href="https://ibb.co/vJB82xj"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/p3PpCvL/20201210-170429.jpg" alt="20201210-170429" border="0"></a>
Instead of using the same ball joint press, I've box cutters to trim off the lip of the old bushings, used a screw driver to go between the bushing and washer and give it play and then tap the rest out using socket and a rubber mallet. Afterwards, I cleaned it up to get install the new bushing kit:
<a href="https://ibb.co/DpwJ24B"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/74rfmv3/20201210-170427.jpg" alt="20201210-170427" border="0"></a>
I watched Timmy's video but I decided not to remove my sway bar I was able to make this all work so you can go either way apparently. The passenger side bushing is a breeze to remove:
<a href="https://ibb.co/4pGLNHS"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/XtgPJq5/20201210-170431.jpg" alt="20201210-170431" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/vBC69Sr"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/BPH5k97/20201210-170441.jpg" alt="20201210-170441" border="0"></a>
Got them installed and now realize how dirty my rack and pinion look from the previous owners valve cover leak:
<a href="https://ibb.co/qJnM4S2"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/7kzJTf0/20201210-201824.jpg" alt="20201210-201824" border="0"></a>
For the price of the bushing kit, it was worth the install.
Amongst other things I did today, I also installed an Energy Suspension Rack and Pinion bushing kit:
<img src="https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/ens-8-10103r_ml.jpg" border="0">
I had one hell of a time figuring out how to free up slack in order to move the center retaining bolt from it's mount but I learned that there's a steering fluid line bolt that is mounted to the frame right on the drivers side and that gave me enough slack. Then, I was able to move it forward enough to use a press and push out the middle bushing. Get ready for a blurry photo:
<a href="https://ibb.co/vJB82xj"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/p3PpCvL/20201210-170429.jpg" alt="20201210-170429" border="0"></a>
Instead of using the same ball joint press, I've box cutters to trim off the lip of the old bushings, used a screw driver to go between the bushing and washer and give it play and then tap the rest out using socket and a rubber mallet. Afterwards, I cleaned it up to get install the new bushing kit:
<a href="https://ibb.co/DpwJ24B"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/74rfmv3/20201210-170427.jpg" alt="20201210-170427" border="0"></a>
I watched Timmy's video but I decided not to remove my sway bar I was able to make this all work so you can go either way apparently. The passenger side bushing is a breeze to remove:
<a href="https://ibb.co/4pGLNHS"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/XtgPJq5/20201210-170431.jpg" alt="20201210-170431" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/vBC69Sr"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/BPH5k97/20201210-170441.jpg" alt="20201210-170441" border="0"></a>
Got them installed and now realize how dirty my rack and pinion look from the previous owners valve cover leak:
<a href="https://ibb.co/qJnM4S2"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/7kzJTf0/20201210-201824.jpg" alt="20201210-201824" border="0"></a>
For the price of the bushing kit, it was worth the install.
Last edited:
shawnathan9
New member
Installed 2nd gen Stabilizer links
My original stabilizer end link boots were cracked and the bushings were falling apart and so I decided to upgrade them since I've been working on so much of the front end.
I ordered Moog's 2nd gen end links as I learned that they're about 1" longer than the 3rd gen end links for around the same price.
Here's a side by side:
<a href="https://ibb.co/g7MSmgW"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/LPzxYpg/20201210-202111.jpg" alt="20201210-202111" border="0"></a>
Of course, I'm replacing the bushings so I used Energy suspension bushings:
<a href="https://ibb.co/0nn9s45"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/GddMHYm/20201210-202113.jpg" alt="20201210-202113" border="0"></a>
I don't have all night so I'm going to do the rear end shocks, coils, rear sway bar bushing kit, and end links for tomorrow morning.
For today, I was able to finish my front end suspension, rack and pinion bushing kit, and sway bar bushing kit.
<a href="https://ibb.co/H2ZLFrW"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/kyZVHhR/20201210-214224.jpg" alt="20201210-214224" border="0"></a>
*I'm just winding down from two days of work on my new 3rd gen but things are coming along nicely. :becky::becky::becky:
My original stabilizer end link boots were cracked and the bushings were falling apart and so I decided to upgrade them since I've been working on so much of the front end.
I ordered Moog's 2nd gen end links as I learned that they're about 1" longer than the 3rd gen end links for around the same price.
Here's a side by side:
<a href="https://ibb.co/g7MSmgW"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/LPzxYpg/20201210-202111.jpg" alt="20201210-202111" border="0"></a>
Of course, I'm replacing the bushings so I used Energy suspension bushings:
<a href="https://ibb.co/0nn9s45"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/GddMHYm/20201210-202113.jpg" alt="20201210-202113" border="0"></a>
I don't have all night so I'm going to do the rear end shocks, coils, rear sway bar bushing kit, and end links for tomorrow morning.
For today, I was able to finish my front end suspension, rack and pinion bushing kit, and sway bar bushing kit.
<a href="https://ibb.co/H2ZLFrW"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/kyZVHhR/20201210-214224.jpg" alt="20201210-214224" border="0"></a>
*I'm just winding down from two days of work on my new 3rd gen but things are coming along nicely. :becky::becky::becky:
Last edited:
shawnathan9
New member
:flame::flame::flame::flame::flame::flame:
I had to do the same exact thing today, having stripped one of my lower ball joint flange nuts that I torqued too much. I also had to remove the entire knuckle and bench vice it down to remove the stripped bolt.
I've already re-installed everything and put one of the old flange bolts back in that place until Toyota calls me tomorrow and tells me the part is ready for pick up. *Not driving my 4Runner but just leaving it there to install the new bolt when it arrives.
Sucks doesn't it :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
I don't know if anyone else is having a problem, but none of your photos are showing up for me on my pc.
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