fatherdoug
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That looks very nice! I'm not familiar with the red on/off switch in the drivers side next to the firewall. Is that for 4WD?
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Spiker Engineering
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I❤️4runners
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Replaced my rear axle seals and replaced drums and shoes on both sides. Unfortunately, didn't catch that the seals were leaking until they had completely slicked upped and wrecked the rear brakes. Also serviced rear diff. New set of BFGs coming tomorrow!!!
I❤️4runners
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Finally finished my engine bay refresh project!
Then spent over two hours trying to properly line up the wiper motor shaft with the linkage so that the wipers don't move into the cowl at some points. The FSM is useless on that topic, and I have yet to find any Youtube video that explains it (correctly).
Dang man! That looks sweet. Guess there is such a thing as engine bay envy. LOL!
fatherdoug
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Looks like a pretty heavy duty switch.
Spiker Engineering
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Yup, it's used to disconnect a pretty serious electrical load.
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Finally finished my engine bay refresh project!
I can't stop looking at how nice this looks. Pardon my ignorance, but what is the reason for the the unused 'hole' on the intake plenum gasket(?)
Spiker Engineering
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That's a good question - these gaskets have three holes with the copper washer, but none of them line up with anything on the manifold:
Ed_C
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Spiker Engineering
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Mystery solved :thumb:!
Rushthezeppelin
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This, it's not something you want to chance IMO. The risk is that your whole rear end blows up when the bearings decide to lockup. It's not easy to get them changed but the peace of mind is totally worth it IMO.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Changed my fuel filter today. Followed Timmy's video, definitely recommend the unplugged the pump and purging the line method, made it to where very little gas came out, at least once I remember to open my gas cap. Totally forgot about that at first and was just watching this stream of gas that wasn't slowing for a solid 2 minutes before I realized that fuel tanks hold pressure >< As far as the result I'm always so worried about placebo effect with things related to the drivetrain but I genuinely think my engine is running smoother. I didn't have the OEM filter on there (I think it was a Duralast and I put a Wix on) but who knows how many miles it did have. Seemed like a no brainer to baseline that part of my truck just to know when it was done.
fatherohenry
Member
That's the beauty of buying a used 4Runner. I get to change all the things just so I know they've been done.
Took the steering rack out yesterday evening. With the front diff out, very easy to ge to those hydraulic lines. And that top center bolt. All in all 15 easy minutes of taking bolts off until I got to that bottom splined fitting between the rack shaft and the steering column. Bolt came out easily, but it wouldn't budge. I pried and tapped a chisel into the split. Spritzed it with PBLaster. Pried at it. Tapped at it with a drift and hammer. Pounded on it with the same. Used a pickle fork on it. Nothing, didn't budge at all.
I finally switched tactics and took off the upper splined connector (upper side of the rag joint) which came off with an entirely reasonable amount of effort. And then continued trying to separate that lower fitting off of the rack. And spent a long very frustrating amount of time making absolutely not progress on it. I'd have heated it up, but that would ruin the rubber rag joint. FWIW I tried unbolting that as well so I could heat up the fitting itself, but with both nuts (very, very hard to budge) off, it didn't come loose. And there's nothing really to pry on to separate it that isn't rubber and would just tear if forced.
Anyhow, after way too much grief and struggle, managed to get it off with a combination of an open end wrench on the shaft and a pickle fork, got it to budge, and then managed to fight it off one half millimeter at a time. Just rusty and crusty from being bolted together under there for 24 years. Salt belt stuff.
And after all that, I belatedly decided to just replace that part anyhow, the rubbers not bad, but not great, 24 years old. And the splines are still crusty, and it's slightly boogered up from the process of removing it.
If only I'd had the thought to replace it earlier, I could have skipped that EPIC STRUGGLE to remove it, and just left it on the old rack. *sigh*
I finally switched tactics and took off the upper splined connector (upper side of the rag joint) which came off with an entirely reasonable amount of effort. And then continued trying to separate that lower fitting off of the rack. And spent a long very frustrating amount of time making absolutely not progress on it. I'd have heated it up, but that would ruin the rubber rag joint. FWIW I tried unbolting that as well so I could heat up the fitting itself, but with both nuts (very, very hard to budge) off, it didn't come loose. And there's nothing really to pry on to separate it that isn't rubber and would just tear if forced.
Anyhow, after way too much grief and struggle, managed to get it off with a combination of an open end wrench on the shaft and a pickle fork, got it to budge, and then managed to fight it off one half millimeter at a time. Just rusty and crusty from being bolted together under there for 24 years. Salt belt stuff.
And after all that, I belatedly decided to just replace that part anyhow, the rubbers not bad, but not great, 24 years old. And the splines are still crusty, and it's slightly boogered up from the process of removing it.
If only I'd had the thought to replace it earlier, I could have skipped that EPIC STRUGGLE to remove it, and just left it on the old rack. *sigh*
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Took the steering rack out yesterday evening. With the front diff out, very easy to ge to those hydraulic lines. And that top center bolt. All in all 15 easy minutes of taking bolts off until I got to that bottom splined fitting between the rack shaft and the steering column. Bolt came out easily, but it wouldn't budge. I pried and tapped a chisel into the split. Spritzed it with PBLaster. Pried at it. Tapped at it with a drift and hammer. Pounded on it with the same. Used a pickle fork on it. Nothing, didn't budge at all.
I finally switched tactics and took off the upper splined connector (upper side of the rag joint) which came off with an entirely reasonable amount of effort. And then continued trying to separate that lower fitting off of the rack. And spent a long very frustrating amount of time making absolutely not progress on it. I'd have heated it up, but that would ruin the rubber rag joint. FWIW I tried unbolting that as well so I could heat up the fitting itself, but with both nuts (very, very hard to budge) off, it didn't come loose. And there's nothing really to pry on to separate it that isn't rubber and would just tear if forced.
Anyhow, after way too much grief and struggle, managed to get it off with a combination of an open end wrench on the shaft and a pickle fork, got it to budge, and then managed to fight it off one half millimeter at a time. Just rusty and crusty from being bolted together under there for 24 years. Salt belt stuff.
And after all that, I belatedly decided to just replace that part anyhow, the rubbers not bad, but not great, 24 years old. And the splines are still crusty, and it's slightly boogered up from the process of removing it.
If only I'd had the thought to replace it earlier, I could have skipped that EPIC STRUGGLE to remove it, and just left it on the old rack. *sigh*
I found with mine that separating the rag joint and taking the whole rack out made this much easier. I let it soak in PB for a few hours and it came off without too much struggle.
fatherohenry
Member
It's garbage. I have tons of links saved from my local dealership for parts I might need and they're all broken. I sure hope they add some redirection. I don't like change.
EDIT: Also, I can't access it when using a VPN. That's going to be a headache.
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Rushthezeppelin
New member
Well that sucks. And my local cheap dealership just recently switched from their own system to being one of the last to jump on parts.toyota. Hopefully I won't have to use it for a while yet and they will get stuff fixed up.
Edit: LMAO I just went to look up ball joints both upper and lower on there and when I try to open the page for any of the parts it just says page not found.....
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