What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Also in between the rear locker and the connections in the pics above I noticed this small connector and 2 cut wires , one blk and one white. Any help would be awesome!

Post 1882 might help, and maybe 1861. Keep in mind my info was for a not-prewired truck and I didn't use an aftermarket harness. I did have and use most of the locker harness, just not the ecu and connector for it.
habanero's 1996 4Runner Build-Up Thread - Page 94 - YotaTech Forums

The pic by the rear spring with the little connector looks like one of the two that attach to the e-locker EDIT: Nevermind, yours looks to be male and the one on the e-locker harness is female. Could throw out a guess like ABS wiring connector, but it's only a guess.
RMdESMyl.jpg

On a more general note, if you are having intermittent trouble with the locker not working, or working poorly test this portion of wiring for continuity. I've found two harnesses with degraded broken wires under the hard covering.

I did not splice into the harness, but I did move some connector pins over. That's post 1861 in the above link.
 
Last edited:
19e13daa294c9be882b01b1615b52973.jpg

9cd628adedf49f0546ea51f3cb35e84c.jpg

1e55cf86c099e680630f11ce1cd37418.jpg

7ae28fae560bee73a13584c2a898043e.jpg
d7246d13369ea4c38e7d4b0275d332a2.jpg

It’s been a min .. Got a BBL yesterday [emoji1787] Nguyen Works Dual Swing out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Also inbetween the rear locker and the connections in the pics above I noticed this small connector and 2 cut wires , one blk and one white. Any help would be awesome!

my first was a rerofit into a non locker, so I too had to make a harness. However I did just wire it into a light up rear diff locker switch. this of course gave me the ability to use locker at any time not just 4low, my current came factory locker, which of course I then did the gray wire mod to it ( or is it blue)...i think it was called gray wire mod because who figured it out was on a taco and taco wire is gray
 
Let us know how full poly effects the ride quality. I'm contemplating doing this but I might do OEM rubber on some of them (I've heard doing rubber on the lower trailing arms is better).

Just throwing my .03 in (Inflation), but for me, the SPC 25945 lower links were by far the best thing ever for the rear end of my 4Runner. I went through 2 sets of OEM arms where the bushings just couldn't deal with the rear locker and the bigger tires. OEM suspension components are good for the stock suspension and tires. Once you lift and put bigger tires on, add a locker, etc. you really ought to strongly consider upgraded suspension links.

The SPC 25945 links have an upgraded, heavy-duty rubber bushing on the frame side and a spherical bearing on the axle side for better flex off-road. These made a HUUUUUGE positive difference on my truck. I bought mine from O'Reilly's.

Also, while we're at it, the Mevotech Supreme rear upper links I put on were also a noticeable upgrade over the stock links. I bought those from Rock Auto.
 
The Runner's running perfect now. Recap, head rebuild last few weeks, after, had a high idle. Quickly realized that I should have checked the IAC valve while I had the top of the engine(3RZ)off. But anyway the original one was junk, besides being filthy it wouldn't trip with power to it.
A new one(factory OEM ouch) installed and she runs beautifully. My Colorado temp plate is expired and my DMV appointment isn't till next week so it's got to sit until then. I can't wait to drive it.
 
Replaced my steering rack with a OEM one as the one that was in there wasn't. My inner tie rods were getting floppy so I figured i'd just spend the extra money and replace the entire rack. Also flushed out the power steering reservoir while the system was drained. It seemed to fix a front end clunk I was having while turning also.
 
Just throwing my .03 in (Inflation), but for me, the SPC 25945 lower links were by far the best thing ever for the rear end of my 4Runner. I went through 2 sets of OEM arms where the bushings just couldn't deal with the rear locker and the bigger tires. OEM suspension components are good for the stock suspension and tires. Once you lift and put bigger tires on, add a locker, etc. you really ought to strongly consider upgraded suspension links.

The SPC 25945 links have an upgraded, heavy-duty rubber bushing on the frame side and a spherical bearing on the axle side for better flex off-road. These made a HUUUUUGE positive difference on my truck. I bought mine from O'Reilly's.

Very few folks look at rear trailing arm bushings as part of baselining the vehicle. I went with Rokman arms, and like the idea of x-axis bushings, and might consider updating to these (modifying the Rokman arms if necessary) to make the SPC x bushings fit them (Rokman is .25 DOM tubing vs SPC 3/16")
 
Mounted/balanced/road forced a set of 245/75R17 tires on new FJ Steelies in an effort to find a vibration. I road forced/balanced my old tires/wheels and found two with excessive road force. Put the new wheel/tire combo on and vibration has vanished. I wish I would have tried this sooner! I bought a couple extra steelies and used 245/75R17 tires to replace the two spares for my 4Runners.

For anyone wanting to go with FJ steelies, the outside edge of the rim lines up really close to even with the black plastic SR5 fender flares. I'm glad I didn't get any spacers. You'll also need acorn bulge nuts if you want to run these long term IMO. The OEM shank lug nuts do have a chamfer for use with the spare tire, but I don't think they were designed for long term use.
 
Been doing body and paint work. Repaired 1 dent on rear drivers side door, 1 massive dent on drivers rear quarter panel on the bottom right as it wraps around to the back, 3 scratches/dents on tailgate. All of those I'd give my fix a 90% or above, I need a light wet sand at maybe 2000 grit, and then a polish and buff.

Also did the hood. It had been keyed in like 3 or 4 different locations plus a bunch of rock chips. So I got it looking good, put on clear coat and a whole bunch of shit got in the clear coat. I had a fan running in the garage which was a huge mistake. So I had to take off probably 2/3 of the clear coat and now am waiting on more of the clear coat from amazon so I can redo it.

Rest of the day hoping to get the audio working for the first time in 4 years.
 
Last edited:
Damaged 1996

Do you save it or not scrap it? SR5 2wd
Unfortunately the vehicle was in a accident. Popped the airbags and has some body damage. Body shop wants $4k to repair and insurance co only paid $1600. I would also have to have a rebuilt title. I have owned it for 3 years and have done all the maintenance and it runs like a top. The rack and pinion steering was even replaced this year.
It a $2300 question yes or no?
 
Cooper S/T Maxx in 255-85/16. A bit pricier than most, but one of the only AT options in that size.


I thought they looked familiar...
5997b40e67207f029033c5b365e360a4.jpg


Great tire, IMO, worth the premium


Would have to agree. I had the ST Maxx’s a few years ago, although mine were 285/75/16’s. I managed to squeeze out a little over 62K miles on mine and was meticulous about rotations every 5K. Told myself I’d get them again in the future but in 255. One day, one day…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top