What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

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Ordered the Land Tank elocker rebuild kit and decided to go ahead and take apart my actuator to see how it was doing. Good news is other than the dried out body grease W it's pristine. Also I managed to get those JIS screws out with a regular Philips without stripping them. Looks like the breather had always done its job and the seals held up. Apparently the seals only barely held up though. The seal for the motor itself was not in great shape but I managed to get it off and scrape off the remnants. Glad I did this before doing my elocker swap and then doing a bunch of water crossings and killing those seals the rest of the way. I also screwed up and didn't take the motor housing off before taking apart the limit switch area and so the whole commutator/rotor coil assembly came out with the magnets and let the brushes fly out of their holders. Thankfully I didn't lose the brush springs so I just have to figure out a way to hold those brushes in when I reinstall the commutator/rotor coil (I'm thinking I might be able to hold them in with some scotch tape or something). Other good news is the glue for the stator magnets is still in great shape, didn't lose any of those thankfully. On a side note who was the genius who designed this thing, there's so many places on the third and the actuator that seem DESIGNED to catch and hold dirt >< I'm seriously tempted to drill a drain hole into the third to give this stuff a path out.
 
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...let the brushes fly out of their holders. Thankfully I didn't lose the brush springs so I just have to figure out a way to hold those brushes in when I reinstall the commutator/rotor coil...
toothpicks did the trick for me
P91vutBm.jpg


Some, but not all, actuators have these little balls, pic is the bottom one, it was the top one I had the most trouble with...steel vs close proximity magnets...argh
bWh77WYm.jpg
 
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toothpicks did the trick for me
P91vutBm.jpg


These little balls, pic is the bottom one, it was the top one I had the most trouble with...steel vs close proximity magnets...argh
bWh77WYm.jpg

You had me going for a sec there as I didn't remember seeing (or hearing) those balls. I managed to get the commutator back in last night. Double checked though and I must have lucked out grabbing a 96, it just has bushings on both ends. The ball must be a later minor revision. On a side note holy smokes you got a dirty actuator.
 
Here's what I'm dealing with on mine

img_20231019_075707449-jpg.122158

img_20231019_074841785-jpg.122159

img_20231019_081827435-jpg.122161

img_20231019_074810275_hdr-jpg.122160


Habenero, did you have a nice shielded ball bearing below your brushes by chance? Maybe that's the difference here, my commutator rides on that bearing and little bushings at the end but it seems mostly the bear, it's a nice snug fit in there.
 
You had me going for a sec there as I didn't remember seeing (or hearing) those balls. I managed to get the commutator back in last night. Double checked though and I must have lucked out grabbing a 96, it just has bushings on both ends. The ball must be a later minor revision. On a side note holy smokes you got a dirty actuator.

Ugh, I'm not doing you any favors, am I? I must've deleted that part of my statement when I edited it, I'll go put that info back on my post.

It does have nasty corrosion, welcome to the salt belt. Aluminum, steel, whatever it wants to eat, it eats.

Habenero, did you have a nice shielded ball bearing below your brushes by chance? Maybe that's the difference here, my commutator rides on that bearing and little bushings at the end but it seems mostly the bear, it's a nice snug fit in there.
I repaired it in 2015, would have to pull it apart to see what I've got. I don't remember a ball bearing, but that doesn't mean there isn't one. Now I'm going to want to tear one of my spares apart and take a gander, if I can find the time.
IBomteQm.jpg


jEMPzSXl.jpg
 
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Here's what I'm dealing with on mine



img_20231019_075707449-jpg.122158


img_20231019_074841785-jpg.122159


img_20231019_081827435-jpg.122161


img_20231019_074810275_hdr-jpg.122160




Habenero, did you have a nice shielded ball bearing below your brushes by chance? Maybe that's the difference here, my commutator rides on that bearing and little bushings at the end but it seems mostly the bear, it's a nice snug fit in there.
Did I see these pics on FB today?

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Ugh, It does have nasty corrosion, welcome to the salt belt. Aluminum, steel, whatever it wants to eat, it eats.

Truth there, was hatched spent 22 yrs. in Arnold Fenton area just visiting the snow belt causes issues. :)
Snow getting around seat belt floor mount caused rust to develop.
 
So today l am trying to get my 1999 SR5 to start and to release the key.. I am desperate as l have to drive to NC from TX on Sunday.

What l have done is (1)removed the ignition switch safety lock actuator under the dash to release the key, (2) have removed the shifter cover and the little plug(don't know name) that allows shifter to move freely.

What is happening is, key will still only released when on disconnect battery. HOWEVER, once power comes back and l try to start car, it all shuts down... no start, no horn, no light, etc. So l remove battery terminal, key releases, power comes back. But when l turn key again...it all shuts down. I am sooo frustrated. I don't know what else to do , and l can't seem to be able to start a new thread for help yet. Guess l need more posts. I am open to any idea...and if anyone is in Austin TX willing to assist...l am willing to reward your time. Thank you for reading.
 
Installed ARB Safari Snorkel a couple days ago using one of yota tech guides. Currently don’t have a build thread since I don’t have enough posts and replies so figured I’d start here. Been using this forum for a few years now without posting anything since everything has already been discussed and just a little digging will get you all the answers you’re looking for.
d4b9d0e79ffe4a55826f17989c750af4.jpg



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looks great man. Lift, wheel, tire setup?
 
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