What did you do with your 4runner today?

Finally got around to getting a rear dash cam. Not to bad for $35. So far its just plugged into the 12v
 

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i think i am running my fair share of rigids thru ottraw switches
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/129154214@N04/16071687019" title="20150111_083632 by gshadow3225 .., on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7538/16071687019_1968d2a57f_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="20150111_083632"></a>

take #3 and run it to your relay.

relay gets wired like this,

30 12 volt in
87 12 volt out to lights
85 ground
86 in from #3 on your switch

now #2 on your switch you wire to something that is controlled via ignition inside the truck.

easy peasy

indeed you do and I was waiting for you to chime in... so what you're saying is I don't have to change anything except (adding the fuse block if I want to clean up the battery positive terminal and) remove the red wire from the RI harness to my ottrattw switch #2 (let it hang free?) and then what color wire should/can I tap that's convenient behind the lower dash to make the new connection to #2 on the OTTRATTW switch?
 
Finally got around to getting a rear dash cam. Not to bad for $35. So far its just plugged into the 12v
That's the one with built in battery? Something g1 model? Return it back to amazon. It's a turd.you will get corrupted files from it crashing on its own. Your file dates will be all wrong because the cam will not save the dates right. It will all be 2011 file dates. You will find out quick that is going to get bumped off. I had the same model. I also thought to skimp on the dash cam. Then came the compustar dash. I have been happy ever since

indeed you do and I was waiting for you to chime in... so what you're saying is I don't have to change anything except (adding the fuse block if I want to clean up the battery positive terminal and) remove the red wire from the RI harness to my ottrattw switch #2 (let it hang free?) and then what color wire should/can I tap that's convenient behind the lower dash to make the new connection to #2 on the OTTRATTW switch?

I am lost with what is going on. Might be because I only read your last post.

Blue sea, I don't see the need for one. All you need is one line to feed your relays
 
[MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION] don't sweat it. I'm an electrical retard and confused myself so I'll figure it out eventually. I think what you're saying makes sense, I'm just afraid to alter the RI harness is all.

the blue wire on the RI harness is connected to #3 on my OTTRATTW switch on one side and 86 on the other end (so it sounds like this is already correct from your advice).

The reason I think my lights are always hot now is because the RI harness taps the power line from the battery (with the 15A fuse in it) before it enters #30 on the relay (for the high voltage circuit to the lights when the relay coil gets energized) and uses that for switch trigger power as well since the RI harness has a red wire connected to #2 on the switch.

Assuming the above is correct I have two questions....

1) When I disconnect the red RI harness wire from #2 on the switch, what is the proper way to cap it off? it's a live wire essentially directly from the battery and don't want a parasitic drain...
2) what oem color wire should I tap and connect to #2 on the switch?
 
@nuckearn8 just figure out what you are doing. What is the wiring at the rigid industries switch?

I don't know, I'm not using the round rocker switch supplied by RI... I'm using the SPST OTTRATTW switch.... how I have it shown in my previous post above it works correctly, it just works anytime (car on or off) and want to only be able to turn on the lights if the car is running is all I'm trying to achieve.
 
That's the one with built in battery? Something g1 model? Return it back to amazon. It's a turd.you will get corrupted files from it crashing on its own. Your file dates will be all wrong because the cam will not save the dates right. It will all be 2011 file dates. You will find out quick that is going to get bumped off. I had the same model. I also thought to skimp on the dash cam. Then came the compustar dash. I have been happy ever since.

Don't think its the same one, it doesn't have a built in battery and I didn't get it from Amazon. So far the dates are fine and even if they do get messed up I'm not too worried about it, the front camera will have the correct info and both footage will correspond with each other.

I'll be happy if it lasts 6 months, I can't afford a couple hundred dollars for a dash cam right now and if I could I'd get the same one I have in the front.
 
I scheduled my DT header install for Monday and ordered new Denso A/F and O2 sensors. Also have 2 stainless bungs I am going to have installed.

I didn't expect to get it done this quickly, but when I called the shop they happened to have an opening. :)
 
[MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION] don't sweat it. I'm an electrical retard and confused myself so I'll figure it out eventually. I think what you're saying makes sense, I'm just afraid to alter the RI harness is all.

the blue wire on the RI harness is connected to #3 on my OTTRATTW switch on one side and 86 on the other end (so it sounds like this is already correct from your advice).

The reason I think my lights are always hot now is because the RI harness taps the power line from the battery (with the 15A fuse in it) before it enters #30 on the relay (for the high voltage circuit to the lights when the relay coil gets energized) and uses that for switch trigger power as well since the RI harness has a red wire connected to #2 on the switch.

Assuming the above is correct I have two questions....

1) When I disconnect the red RI harness wire from #2 on the switch, what is the proper way to cap it off? it's a live wire essentially directly from the battery and don't want a parasitic drain...
2) what oem color wire should I tap and connect to #2 on the switch?

1) What I usually do is cut the wire, fold it back onto itself, and put some heat-shrink tubing over the end of the wire
2) If your power outlet/cigarette lighter only turns on with the car on, connect #2 on the switch to the positive on the outlet or splice it into the radio harness switched power (not sure on the colors, if you have an aftermarket radio with an adapter cable it'll be the red wire)
 
Are you the Marlboro man? And do landscaping? Or roll your own smokes ALL THE TIME? lol That's bad for that amount of time I would think.

LOl I don't smoke or anything. I was really surprised when I took the old one off, especially I installed that one myself. I am just going to take a look at it again in 6 months and see how dirty it gets.
 

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