What did you do with your 4runner today?

Yes sir. t-man (I haven't figured out the "mention" feature) has done a ton of cutting and banging on his. He is very utility oriented to say the least. You may want to check out his "clearance mods" :thumb:

Oh trust me his was one of the first I looked at. I just hope I don't need to persuade the fire wall back with the sledge.
 
Did the Satoshi mod. Many thanks to [MENTION=72408]Mytoy4[/MENTION] for sharing knowledge and encouragement, and to Matt at customcargrills.com for prompt replies to my questions, the great selection of products, and terrific customer service. I used the precut 4Runner insert, which uses the Small Hex pattern mesh. The emblem is a Land Cruiser 40 series from eBay with the letters hand-painted Testors Dark Red.

While I'm very pleased with the outcome, if I had it to do over, I would buy the larger, rectangular mesh designed for any application and follow Mytoy4's thread instructions for the flush-style grill. I wanted the deep style but after the experience, IMO the difference in appearance is not worth the significantly greater time and effort needed to create the deep style grill.

I plan to write a "Lessons from My Satoshi Mod" thread, which came perilously close to being titled "I Fought the Grill and the Grill Won." ;-)

IMG_3795_zps266tl2nv.jpg~original


IMG_3798_zpspp4jddin.jpg~original
 
I think it's great and as I've said, I love the red on that emblem!

Did the Satoshi mod. Many thanks to [MENTION=72408]Mytoy4[/MENTION] for sharing knowledge and encouragement, and to Matt at customcargrills.com for prompt replies to my questions, the great selection of products, and terrific customer service. I used the precut 4Runner insert, which uses the Small Hex pattern mesh. The emblem is a Land Cruiser 40 series from eBay with the letters hand-painted Testors Dark Red.

While I'm very pleased with the outcome, if I had it to do over, I would buy the larger, rectangular mesh designed for any application and follow Mytoy4's thread instructions for the flush-style grill. I wanted the deep style but after the experience, IMO the difference in appearance is not worth the significantly greater time and effort needed to create the deep style grill.

I plan to write a "Lessons from My Satoshi Mod" thread, which came perilously close to being titled "I Fought the Grill and the Grill Won." ;-)

IMG_3795_zps266tl2nv.jpg~original


IMG_3798_zpspp4jddin.jpg~original
 
Finally got around to cutting back my body mounts today. Rubbing wasn't too bad at all until I put spacers on a couple weeks ago. The spacers fixed the rubbing in 1 spot, but then created rubbing in 2 more spots,haha. I clear everything now on flat ground, but I have a feeling on rough, bumpy roads I'm gonna hit the mounts if my wheels are turned too much. After work tmrw I'm gonna get the grinder out and try to get a little more room to play .
 
Does anyone know the length of the front factory wheel studs? Overall length, and visible length? I am about to buy a cheap set of wheel spacers for an experiment, and would like to buy 1" spacers rather than 1.25". I would hate to buy 1" spacers to find out the hard way that the studs are to long.

I'm posting this in the picture thread, and the today thread rather than starting a new one. Thanks in advance!
 
Does anyone know the length of the front factory wheel studs? Overall length, and visible length? I am about to buy a cheap set of wheel spacers for an experiment, and would like to buy 1" spacers rather than 1.25". I would hate to buy 1" spacers to find out the hard way that the studs are to long.

I'm posting this in the picture thread, and the today thread rather than starting a new one. Thanks in advance!

I think you'll be fine with 1" spacers. At least up front. I ran 3/4" spacer for a while and had to cut my studs down a little to clear them. IIRC, I think [MENTION=165]momo.75[/MENTION] and maybe a few others ran some one inch spacers at some point. Hope that helps.
 
Does anyone know the length of the front factory wheel studs? Overall length, and visible length? I am about to buy a cheap set of wheel spacers for an experiment, and would like to buy 1" spacers rather than 1.25". I would hate to buy 1" spacers to find out the hard way that the studs are to long.

I'm posting this in the picture thread, and the today thread rather than starting a new one. Thanks in advance!

The front studs are about 7/8 of a inch long. The rears are longer, prob 1.25 inches. I bought eBay 1.25 spacers and had to buy et lug nuts because I wasn't comfortable with 5 turns of the nut holding my spacer on. Started a thread on it... "eBay spacers"
 
I think you'll be fine with 1" spacers. At least up front. I ran 3/4" spacer for a while and had to cut my studs down a little to clear them. IIRC, I think [MENTION=165]momo.75[/MENTION] and maybe a few others ran some one inch spacers at some point. Hope that helps.

When I had my BBS wheels I ran the .75" spacers. They were made by Motorsport Tech. Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings, and much more! | Motorsport Tech They still used the separate nuts to hold them on the hub like the 1.25" Spidertrax.
 
I had the oil changed for the second time after receiving my t4r. right about 3.5k miles after the last one. I go to this 'lube shop' because they offer a free wash and burger with the oil change. I ask them to not worry about the radiator (still not at 100k) and leave the cabin filter alone.

I'm tempted to go to doing it on my own, but disposal of the oil is enough to deter me. I haven't had problems with this place in the 6+ years i've gone, but I am starting to wonder if it's worth doing my own full syn change. Any downsides to switching over to the full syn at this time? No clue what the previous owners would have put in it.
 
I'm tempted to go to doing it on my own, but disposal of the oil is enough to deter me. I haven't had problems with this place in the 6+ years i've gone, but I am starting to wonder if it's worth doing my own full syn change. Any downsides to switching over to the full syn at this time? No clue what the previous owners would have put in it.

The disposal of the oil is really a non-issue, any auto parts store will take used oil for free (services pay them to collect it, so it's not like they're really doing you a favor, don't feel like you're taking advantage of them).

I always advocate DIY oil changes. Aside from the monetary benefit, it's very useful to get under the truck and inspect things with your own eyes every 5000 miles, just so you've got a better idea of your condition. As far as switching goes, I wouldn't worry about it. So long as you switch to synthetic and stay there, you won't have any problems. The best deal is going to be the 5-qt. jugs of Mobil1 at Walmart, and get a good Bosch filter too. It's not like an old BMW or something that needs high zinc content, Toyota engines are pretty benign so long as you change the oil and maintain them at a minimum level.
 
The disposal of the oil is really a non-issue, any auto parts store will take used oil for free (services pay them to collect it, so it's not like they're really doing you a favor, don't feel like you're taking advantage of them).

I always advocate DIY oil changes. Aside from the monetary benefit, it's very useful to get under the truck and inspect things with your own eyes every 5000 miles, just so you've got a better idea of your condition. As far as switching goes, I wouldn't worry about it. So long as you switch to synthetic and stay there, you won't have any problems. The best deal is going to be the 5-qt. jugs of Mobil1 at Walmart, and get a good Bosch filter too. It's not like an old BMW or something that needs high zinc content, Toyota engines are pretty benign so long as you change the oil and maintain them at a minimum level.

Agreed. Some Walmart locations will take the oil and the filter too, so don't let that deter you. I have one of these so I don't have to go dump the oil after every change. I got a small plastic bin with a lid for a buck that holds about 6 used oil filters.

You'll save money and have the satisfaction of knowing it was done right, which is priceless IMO.
 
Ordered wheels and tires! The ones I wanted last week, MB352, were on back order for 30+ days and unknown delivery so I had to haggle down a nicer set of newly released wheels that will only take 2 weeks to order in. I opted to move down to 17" wheels and chose Exo grapplers over the Duratracs. I'll have 5 limited wheels with tires and TPMS for sale plus a set of All pro spacers 1.5 and 2" for sale in a few weeks.
 
I think you'll be fine with 1" spacers. At least up front. I ran 3/4" spacer for a while and had to cut my studs down a little to clear them. IIRC, I think [MENTION=165]momo.75[/MENTION] and maybe a few others ran some one inch spacers at some point. Hope that helps.

The front studs are about 7/8 of a inch long. The rears are longer, prob 1.25 inches. I bought eBay 1.25 spacers and had to buy et lug nuts because I wasn't comfortable with 5 turns of the nut holding my spacer on. Started a thread on it... "eBay spacers"

When I had my BBS wheels I ran the .75" spacers. They were made by Motorsport Tech. Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings, and much more! | Motorsport Tech They still used the separate nuts to hold them on the hub like the 1.25" Spidertrax.


Thanks a ton guys. I got everything figured out and ordered the spacers about 0600 this morning. Going to use a cheap ebay set for mock up before I buy a good pair of hub centric spacers. Again, thanks. Super helpful info.

Momo, still jealous of the bbs wheels you were running
 
Over the weekend and finally completed new UCA sleeves and bushings, swapped back in my FJ front coils, dropped the Bilsteins from max to 0, installed new 4" lift spindles, and alignment. Damm, now I need new rear lift coils, will try the head up ass down look for a bit because longer rear coils call for longer rear shocks.:smash:
 

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