What did you do with your 4runner today?

While not 4th gen related, I know there's GX470 guys that browse this forum, plus it's something that could be applicable to 4R's should there be a need.

Apparently the GX470 key+fob assemblies are notorious for cracking right where the metal shoulder of the key is molded into the plastic housing. I modeled up and printed a form-fitting brace that reinforces the key, even if it is already cracked like this one was. May try doing something similar to reinforce the weak keychain loop on the 4th gen fob, but that'll be a bit more difficult as there's no screws I can take advantage of to fasten it.

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Changed out my front brake pads...old ones were about done. Couldn't find my lug key, said **** it, got a BFH and a 19mm socket. Hammered that sucker on there and some breaker bar therapy got the lock off. Oddly, the other side already had a regular lug instead. :der:
Also had been hearing some groaning when I cranked the wheel to the right...only the right. Started poking around the steering rack and lo and behold...a screwdriver wedged in by the rack. A ****ing screwdriver made me think my rack was done for. :laugh:.
Last but not least...a changed my tail tipe to a turndown after the rear axle, adds a slight bit more volume to that flowmaster.

And all that before lunch. :thumb:
 
Removed and cleaned all intake ductwork and throttle body, Removed carbon filter, and pulled EFI fuses for a reset.
After 120k and the throttle body was pretty dirty.
 
It's clean as a whistle now, 3 weeks, and many miles, later.

Same thing happened to mine. I replaced mine. I didn't want to take the chance. It would lose a few tablespoons of fluid going up and down mountain passes, but nothing in normal daily driving.

Why take the chance? Got a radiator shipped to me cheaply, and it took a six pack and 2 hrs to swap it.
 
My wife drove my 4runner from NC to WI.


I drove the 26 ft. moving truck pulling a Honda on a tow dolly. Made it in 18 hrs, 15 1/2 on the first day. My wife can drive!

Fried cheese curds are the best!!!!
 
Passing through California, but first a quick stop.

Nearly 18 hours after arriving from a 3 day drive from Georgia to California, I stopped into see Mitch & Brian at GOOSE GEAR to have electrical work completed for the GOBI Stealth, Rigid Industries lighting and sPOD Source system. Mitch's professionalism left me leaving confident that I chose the #wiredbygoosegear to complete the job! I will defiantly bring my vehicle by again for future electrical applications.

Next is to test the lights north of SLO in the mountains and hills along the California coast (pictures to come).
 
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My version of the OEM cargo net up top, thanks for the idea. I know it's not purty, but it's effective and that's all I care about. It needs some work though, I'd like to get the D-ring anchored on the bottom. The 5-gallon buckets with the D-rings added in are stable. Critiques are needed and welcome. Do not shy away from giving a flaming critique. The brown tube on the driver side is the antique Heddon bamboo 9' fly rod. I love those old bamboo fly rods, search and find, there are a lot of classic bamboo rods that are better than the new ones.
 

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Replaced UCAs with 170k on them with a stock pair that has 3k on them. Replace lbjs with new greasale moogs. All to chase done a popping noise under moderate to hard braking. Didnt work. Next stop sway bar bushings and new links. She's at the shop now getting an alligment.
 
Replaced UCAs with 170k on them with a stock pair that has 3k on them. Replace lbjs with new greasale moogs. All to chase done a popping noise under moderate to hard braking. Didnt work. Next stop sway bar bushings and new links. She's at the shop now getting an alligment.

Is it repeatable? Or is it a once off occurrence?
 
Replaced UCAs with 170k on them with a stock pair that has 3k on them. Replace lbjs with new greasale moogs. All to chase done a popping noise under moderate to hard braking. Didnt work. Next stop sway bar bushings and new links. She's at the shop now getting an alligment.

Torque UCA and LCA correctly? Could also possible be tie rods.
 
Put some 4" spindle and SS exteended brake lines.

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Fixed my stripped nut and messed up washer on my front shocks. Cut it with a dremel then spread it out with chisel and popped it off. Replaced with new lock nuts. Used my old uca washers double stacked to take up the space and make sure it never bends like that again.
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Swapped out SPC ball joints for new style. The nut/washer design was different, no shoulder step on the new and different washer OD so I reused the old to make my alignment marks match up. Of course I broke a bolt on the abs wire bracket, turning a quick job into a run for an easy out. All back together and it fixed my clunk when the wheel drops off a bump, tighter steering, much better handling all around without all that slop in the upper bj. Great customer service from SPC too.

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