What did you do with your 4runner today?

Question: Is this grease ideal for using on my drive shaft ship joints? This truck is new to me and it clunks badly, so I want to put the best grease in there. This says moly-fortified so it should be what I want right? Also good to go for the u-joints? (I mostly ask because every other grease I've seen referenced is red, but this is black. Want to make sure I'm using good stuff.)

Here is what I have in my notes: (stolen from a previous write up)
# NLGI #2 Molybdenum Disulfide Lithium Based Grease for slip joints (Refer to manual to validate)
# NLGI #2 Lithium Base Grease for U-Joints (Again refer to manual, I use Mobil 1 grease as it is pink)
 
Thanks! I actually already had that thread bookmarked haha from when I read about it last week. I plan on trying Wipe New first. Cladding looks decent at the moment but will surely look crappy soon since I can't garage the vehicle.

Previous owners did timing belt, exhaust manifold, fluid changes, interior LED swap, brakes, added the flowmasters, lift, and wheels. So I'm trying to see what I still have left to do on this thing to make it fresh and reliable. (147,000 miles) Just got an alignment and tire balance, which was not able to be aligned perfectly because of the lift I guess, along with a bent flange on the passenger side camber alignment bolt.

I have the same truck. I used Mr. Clean Magic Erasers, and I am amazed how new the cladding looks. I follow-up with a coat of 303 protectant about once a quarter.
 
Didn't do the wiring today, but got the custom locking rocker switch for my VSC Disable mod and popped it in.

Jt35B0G.jpg

[MENTION=92273]EdmundGTP[/MENTION], is this the USB charger in the adjacent switch location? Does it fit the cutout, or did you have to modify anything? Finally, how's it wired? Thanks for any insight; the POS I bought for 11 bucks isn't cutting it in terms of charging power.
 
[MENTION=92273]EdmundGTP[/MENTION], is this the USB charger in the adjacent switch location? Does it fit the cutout, or did you have to modify anything? Finally, how's it wired? Thanks for any insight; the POS I bought for 11 bucks isn't cutting it in terms of charging power.

In order to fit any Contura rocker switch body into the OEM button openings, they do have to be enlarged slightly. If you buy the charger and then hold it up to the opening in the console, it will be immediately obvious which portions of the opening need to be shaved down. A utility knife works pretty well for this. It's wired to the pos and ground leads for the cigarette lighter socket in the center console.

Since you're the second one that's asked about it, the charger is a Blue Sea model 1039.
 
Replaced the wheel bearing and hub assembly on front passenger side, only to quickly discover it was the driver side that was bad. DOH! Put the good one I had just removed from the passenger side on the driver side and all is quiet and smooth now. Then I exchanged out the power steering fluid. Wow it turns so much easier now!
 
Hood wouldn't open today.

Looked under the interior pull switch and noticed the cable popped out of the pull lever. Must've popped out when I tore the dash apart to redo my head unit. Realigned the rubber cable outside into the "holder" and the metal end back into the lever. Good to go!
 
In order to fit any Contura rocker switch body into the OEM button openings, they do have to be enlarged slightly. If you buy the charger and then hold it up to the opening in the console, it will be immediately obvious which portions of the opening need to be shaved down. A utility knife works pretty well for this. It's wired to the pos and ground leads for the cigarette lighter socket in the center console.

Since you're the second one that's asked about it, the charger is a Blue Sea model 1039.

Thanks. Would you recommend the 1039 based on your experience using it to charge an iPad, etc.?
 
I'll be damned. You make the 3rd white with cladding I've ever seen. Looks good. What do you have done to it?
Just tint, 16s and 33s, daystar lift front and rear, and 5100 bilsteins on the 2nd notch. Looking at rack and ladder next, and paint the cladding silver

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
 
Just tint, 16s and 33s, daystar lift front and rear, and 5100 bilsteins on the 2nd notch. Looking at rack and ladder next, and paint the cladding silver

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

I wanted to paint my cladding at first too. I've grown to love it though. Can't wait till I can shorten my commute, and put the bigger tires back on. Either way, cool truck.
 
replaced the battery

I replaced the original battery with a DieHard Advanced Gold AGM size 34r battery. The swap took about 5 minutes. Now I just need to reprogram the windows and sunroof, and with the help of this site I know how. Thanks.
 
Thanks. Would you recommend the 1039 based on your experience using it to charge an iPad, etc.?

:noidea: It seems to work well enough charging my phone. That's about all I've used it for. Honestly I only bought it because I happened to see it at my local off-road parts place, and it was a much more elegant solution than what I'd been using previously.

The fact that it will flow upwards of 4+ Amps DC of charge current to a device has to count for something I guess.
 
Finally got my Total Chaos UCAs installed. Mechanic charged me $267 to buy and install a new bearing for the driver's side and install the UCAs. That seems reasonable to me.

Now I have to get it aligned.
 

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