What did you do with your 4runner today?

The 115v outlet was a factory option, but not standard equipment on all models, standard on Limited model only, if you have it you would have the switch seen in the photo and the outlet is located in the console storage compartment in the front at the bottom



Thank you. I sadly lack this feature.
 
The 115v outlet was a factory option, but not standard equipment on all models, standard on Limited model only, if you have it you would have the switch seen in the photo and the outlet is located in the console storage compartment in the front at the bottom

A favorite of mine, no need for the under powered charger people use to charge phones and such. I use a "custom shortened" extension cord for a couple devices to charge simultaneously.
 
Went camping on Flagpole Knob in VA for father's day (the Ranger is dad's).

Great views, fun trail and some unpleasant wildlife (he ended up looking it right in the eye while searching for firewood. Scary, but his reaction was hilarious)...

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The 115v outlet was a factory option, but not standard equipment on all models, standard on Limited model only, if you have it you would have the switch seen in the photo and the outlet is located in the console storage compartment in the front at the bottom

Was it even standard on limiteds? if it was, several of the 4rs i looked at before I bought mine had had theirs removed.
 
Was it even standard on limiteds? if it was, several of the 4rs i looked at before I bought mine had had theirs removed.

The 115v outlet is listed on all 4th Gen Limits as standard equipment on all Toyota documentation.
It's possible that some Limited owners remove the switch and replaced it with another switch for an aftermarket accessory, if I did that for some reason I would bypass the 115v switch so the outlet in the console was either always on or put the original switch somewhere under the dash but I would never disable or eliminate the 115v circuit.
 
MJT Satoshi grill

Put my satoshi grill in today. I have my own badging in mine I'm going to do at a later date, but I'm thrilled with the final product.


Recommend MJT grills to anyone, solid product and great customer service. Thanks [MENTION=135677]michaeljtomey[/MENTION]
 

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Quick question, I had a shop do my front/rear diff and transfer case. I gave them 7 quarts of amsoil synthetic and they gave me 1.5 quarts back when I picked the truck up. This is a Toyota shop (not dealer) and most of the employees own tacomas or 4runners. Should I be concerned? According to the thread in the maintenance forum I should of got only 1 quart back at most, not 1.5

Owners manual shows 6.2q's for all three - 1.5q front, 1.5q transfer, 3.2q rear.

If you got shorted in the transfer or front .5q is 33% low. It's possible the front got shorted, it's the most difficult to fill from a bottle, have to use a transfer pump.

I like Toyota trucks but changing the front diff oil is always a PITA. Those 10mm Allen plugs are ridiculous. Frankly, if you buy a used Toyota and the 10mm Allen drain plug is rounded that indicates the front diff oil has never been changed since it came out of the factory. Most peoplle just skip the step once they've rounded the drain plug.
 
Went on a short ride in the Black Hills to let the new C4Fab bumpers and sliders get some fresh air. Not quite ready for the real trails yet so I took a few poser shots-






Sent from The Far Side
 
I fixed my stuck t-case actuator today. I engaged it yesterday and got the dreaded beep-beep-beep.

I jogged the forum and followed the advice I found. Engage 4Lo - roll forward & back - disengage 4Lo - roll forward & back - repeat-repeat-repeat FIXED!!!! I got lucky, but I wanted to share this in case anyone else is feeling stuck with the same issue.

Hang in there friends! Before for you drop big $$$$$ on replacing parts rock it back & forth, tap it with a hammer, loosen it up and spray some lube in it.



2005 SR5 V6 4X4[/QUOTE


Thanks for this info. I've been trying to get 4Lo to engage with no luck. I'll give this a shot, hopefully I'll get lucky too!
 
They torched more towards the middle / bottom of the Moog replacement coils I bought. Those Moogs are part# MC81045. There are lots of things under the rear end of the 4th gen that are in the way that prevent heating them completely at one end or the other while under load mounted on the vehicle. The Moogs were cheap, so I heated them and kept the originals if and/or when I decide to go back to stock or if a spring sags or bends/breaks. I wish I could have had them cut, but the mount points don't allow for that.

Next I think I am going to replace the Rancho RS5000 dampers with Bilstein HDs at all 4 corners.

Yeah, well, I got tired of the stiffer ride in the back with the torched springs, even though I really, REALLY liked how it looked, so today I had the factory springs swapped back in. Fun just messing around.

I really wish there was some way to level the 4th gen by dropping the back just a couple inches with some shorter springs with the same spring rate as the OEM's.

Problem for me is that most folks want to lift their rides to do some off-roading, or at least LOOK like they want to do some off-roading, so there is a very small market for such springs, and having springs custom-wound is kinda pricey, and I imagine getting the spring rate right would be hit or miss.

Anyway, next on my to-do list is having a set of Bilstein 5100 dampers mounted. Maybe even lift the front an inch or so with the ride-height adjustment, but I don't think I'd like that look. At least it is simple to adjust (or so I am told) if I don't like the lift. The 5-year-old Rancho RS5000 ones I have now are too "mushy". I want it to ride more like my '07 Tundra TRD. We'll see how it goes.

Also, my grill is loose on one side, and it is not the bolts that hold it together - those are all tight. It appears to be that there are three rubber inserts that pop into the bottom of the plastic grill assembly to anchor it to the frame behind it, and two of mine are missing. The one that is still present is on the driver's side, and that is the side that it still firmly attached. Went by the stealership to find out what and how much those pieces are, and of course they don't show those on the parts diagram, and according to the parts guy, you have to buy the whole $300+ freakin' grill assembly to get them. Any clue on what those inserts are and where I can come by some? Thanks!
 
Yeah, well, I got tired of the stiffer ride in the back with the torched springs, even though I really, REALLY liked how it looked, so today I had the factory springs swapped back in. Fun just messing around.

I really wish there was some way to level the 4th gen by dropping the back just a couple inches with some shorter springs with the same spring rate as the OEM's.

Problem for me is that most folks want to lift their rides to do some off-roading, or at least LOOK like they want to do some off-roading, so there is a very small market for such springs, and having springs custom-wound is kinda pricey, and I imagine getting the spring rate right would be hit or miss.

Anyway, next on my to-do list is having a set of Bilstein 5100 dampers mounted. Maybe even lift the front an inch or so with the ride-height adjustment, but I don't think I'd like that look. At least it is simple to adjust (or so I am told) if I don't like the lift. The 5-year-old Rancho RS5000 ones I have now are too "mushy". I want it to ride more like my '07 Tundra TRD. We'll see how it goes.

Also, my grill is loose on one side, and it is not the bolts that hold it together - those are all tight. It appears to be that there are three rubber inserts that pop into the bottom of the plastic grill assembly to anchor it to the frame behind it, and two of mine are missing. The one that is still present is on the driver's side, and that is the side that it still firmly attached. Went by the stealership to find out what and how much those pieces are, and of course they don't show those on the parts diagram, and according to the parts guy, you have to buy the whole $300+ freakin' grill assembly to get them. Any clue on what those inserts are and where I can come by some? Thanks!
For the grille, check eBay. I know you can find whole grilles for much cheaper than $300, and you may be able to find the inserts
 
Owners manual shows 6.2q's for all three - 1.5q front, 1.5q transfer, 3.2q rear.

If you got shorted in the transfer or front .5q is 33% low. It's possible the front got shorted, it's the most difficult to fill from a bottle, have to use a transfer pump.

I like Toyota trucks but changing the front diff oil is always a PITA. Those 10mm Allen plugs are ridiculous. Frankly, if you buy a used Toyota and the 10mm Allen drain plug is rounded that indicates the front diff oil has never been changed since it came out of the factory. Most peoplle just skip the step once they've rounded the drain plug.

Hmm, do you agree with the other response that it's nothing to worry about or should I call and question them on it?
 
Yesterday, I replaced my ghetto awning mounts with nice n' shiny mounts from FourTreks. They looks awesome and seem bombproof. The 2" mounts fit the Sport Edition stock racks perfectly, like they were made for them.

I also replaced all the interior lights with LED's using a cheap eBay kit. Good times.

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Finally got around to changing the oil in the transfer case and front and rear differentials. I went to harbor freight and got one of those pumps to use to pump the gear oil in. I wasn't sure how it would work being fairly cheap and all, but let me tell you, that thing was beautiful! Made it very easy. I also had the frozen caliper issue so I decided to replace all 4 rotors and calipers. I did the 5th Gen brake upgrade on the front and used the normal 4th Gen calipers on the back. The front calipers were the worst, and locked up solid on both sides. VERY badly rusted. Before I installed the new calipers I painted them with G2 caliper paint. Came out great and hopefully it will help to slow down the rust. We'll see how it holds up.
 

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