What did you do with your 4runner today?

Installed some extended front mud flaps finally. No running boards is torture on the paint. Just a set of cheap flaps from your favorite junk parts store.
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I installed new wheel bearing assemblies on the front, no more noise. I got them with the bearings already pressed in from Bluepitbearings.com and it was super easy. No need for a press, and they shipped super fast.

Bill
 
Removed running boards, got the windows tinted (5% all around including brow, 25% on driver and passenger), USA decal on back window, t4r.org decal, blacked out all the chrome minus door handles, front badge gray plastidip. Ordered new socks and shoes (285/70/17 Falken wildpeak w/ HELO he878 17x9). Will install wheels and tires after I put on the daystar 2.5/1.5 this weekend!
 

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Finally warmed up to finish the last paint on the brush guard. Tried a few cheaper cans, but the best results came from the $8 cans of rollbar and chassis paint from autozone. I added new stainless hardware to hold it together. Left off the headlight crossbars for now. They make it a little more dated than it already is. I was going to leave off the sides, but went ahead and stuck them on again.
 

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Debating on what to do next. I can do one of these and they all will cost about the same +/-$150.

1) Wheelers T1/T12 lift with new Bilstein Shocks in front
2) Magnaflow Stainless steel Cat-back exhaust
3) AFE Cold air intake and an AGM Battery

I plan on doing all of these but I dont know what to start with.
 
Debating on what to do next. I can do one of these and they all will cost about the same +/-$150.

1) Wheelers T1/T12 lift with new Bilstein Shocks in front
2) Magnaflow Stainless steel Cat-back exhaust
3) AFE Cold air intake and an AGM Battery

I plan on doing all of these but I dont know what to start with.
The lift will probably be the most beneficial. The exhaust would be last on my list as it's just noise, no real performance gain. So I guess that means the AFE and AGM second. My thoughts at least.
 
Not glamorous, but needed...

Drained and filled (w/ Mobile 1 full syn) my front & rear differentials and T-case. T-case and rear oils looked good... but the front not so much. Wondering if the stealership neglected to change it last time I had them do their "4x4 service" (The front drain plug was stripped pretty bad and it was a PITA to get loose and drain ... guess I am just wondering out loud, cause they'd never fess up to something like that). I guess that's why they say if you want it done right, do it yourself (thanks [MENTION=34218]snowbizx[/MENTION] for the great write up w/ pictures on this - made it super easy to do). Anyhow, its done and it now has full syn in there... so, Im happy about that. :party:
What is the suggested mileage for said service?

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I did my first spark plug change at 115k. One of the old plugs was completely loose, and one of the coil cylinders looked like it was holding rust water. I was only getting 11.2 mpg, so hopefully it gets a little better with the new plugs.
 
LED Reverse Bulbs & Cleaned Weep Holes

Swapped reverse bulbs for LED, very easy and well worth the time and money. I've read a couple of post about rusted hatches and frozen locks, so I cleaned out the 'weep holes' in the hatch and wire brushed and lubed the lock mechanism. The holes were not clogged, I got some gunk out of them.
 
Im looking to get 5100 shocks for my lift. I can save a lot of money buying them from Amazon, but I will get no warranty. For about $150 more I can get them at Autozone and have a lifetime warranty through them. Which route is better? :help:
 
Discovered that my foglights are full of water... Toyota wants $380 a piece. New headlights from toyota are cheaper. Im thinking of getting a cheap set to replace and try to reseal the stock ones. Any one heard of the Winjet ones? Are they any good?

https://www.carid.com/2005-toyota-4...-247657967.html?parentsubmodel[]=SUBMODEL|SR5


Take your old ones out, pull the bulbs and put the foglight in a low ( 210 degree) oven until the waters evaporated. Pull out and allow to cool.
Seal around the lens / body seam with RTV. Allow to cure overnight, reinstall bulb, reinstall in vehicle, should not leak anymore. Cost ~$8.00 for a tube of RTV.

Works on headlights too. I did mine in the spring.
 
Take your old ones out, pull the bulbs and put the foglight in a low ( 210 degree) oven until the waters evaporated. Pull out and allow to cool.
Seal around the lens / body seam with RTV. Allow to cure overnight, reinstall bulb, reinstall in vehicle, should not leak anymore. Cost ~$8.00 for a tube of RTV.

Works on headlights too. I did mine in the spring.

+1 I guess I can try this first. I am hesitant about baking light assemblies, I bought a cheap set of tail lights for my 86 Toyota pickup once and they had moisture in them. I baked them at 200 F and within 15 minutes they shrunk to half their original size like shinky-dinks. Probably due to inferior plastics being used.
 
+1 I guess I can try this first. I am hesitant about baking light assemblies, I bought a cheap set of tail lights for my 86 Toyota pickup once and they had moisture in them. I baked them at 200 F and within 15 minutes they shrunk to half their original size like shinky-dinks. Probably due to inferior plastics being used.

Shrinky Dinks....you're old too ?

The Toyota plastic is quite a bit better than the aftermarket. You can go to a lower temp ~170 degrees but it'll take longer for the water to evaporate.

I've donr this for both my old Highlander, and current 4runner, no problems here from it.

As always YMMV.
 
Replaced one of my worn out keyfobs with one from ajtdesign-llc.com

It is plastic but it looks and feels quite nice. Swapped internals from older fob into new one (takes at most 5 mins). Very happy with it and will probably swap out my second key fob too.
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