Removed the running boards! Does anyone think they’re worth selling? I’m not sure how much trouble they’re actually worth... :shrug:
Before you put the nozzle on the fitting try pushing the ball bearing valve in a little with something pointy. usually thats what causes the grease to shoot out the sides.No cool pics, but I greased the driveshafts. It's been forever since I've worked with zerk fittings and it took some finagling but I finally got it. If anyone has any tips for not getting a bunch of grease coming out the sides of the nozzle I'm all ears.
Also, this was my first maintenance item on my truck. Just bought it a few days ago.
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No cool pics, but I greased the driveshafts. It's been forever since I've worked with zerk fittings and it took some finagling but I finally got it. If anyone has any tips for not getting a bunch of grease coming out the sides of the nozzle I'm all ears.
Also, this was my first maintenance item on my truck. Just bought it a few days ago.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
Thanks for the details! That was my impression when I looked at it, that getting the wire to and down the tailgate was goi t to be a challenge. Will take another look at it. I like those little rock lights!I ran power from the front - I have an aux fuse panel installed for other lighting as well. It's pretty easy to pull up the door step trim pieces and remove the lower rear quarter of the trim to get the wire through to the back.
Getting the wires into the tailgate was more of a challenge. I used the stock rubber covering for the factory wiring entering the tailgate. I ran a couple of 3 wire cables so I'd only have to do this once if I need more wires in the tailgate. The rubber harness protector (top left when tailgate is open) pops out of the tailgate and truck body and then you can run wires through it. You will probably have to cut away the electrical tape on the tailgate side to fit your wires in. If you remove the cargo hook inside on the top left then you can pull the headliner down just enough to route the wire through to the upper quarter panel. You also have to unbolt/unclip the upper quarter panel from the body to get the wire behind it. The hardest part was probably fishing down the side of the tailgate to get to the harness protector (go from the tailgate side up, if you fish down from the hole that the rubber harness protector connects to the wire will get jammed in the sheet metal. I used a piece of 14 ga solid ground conductor to fish through the tailgate. I can take a couple of pictures later to describe the locations if you'd like.
These are what I used based on recommendation by @cb_adv on Instagram:
Amazon.com: 4 Pods LED Rock Lights, Ampper Waterproof LED Neon Underglow Light for Car Truck ATV UTV SUV Jeep Offroad Boat Underbody Glow Trail Rig Lamp (White): Automotive
Change the oil in the transfer case and keep putting it in 4lo, at least once a month, for now I'd say every couple weeks to keep it from getting stuck again. Congrats!Never been able to go 4lo. 2 days after I went for a 6 hour trip in 4hi, I tried to go 4lo coming back from getting chips and bam it went. I'm crying happy I was about a month away from paying to get it fixed [emoji93][emoji93][emoji93] never give up make your dreams reality
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If anyone has any tips for not getting a bunch of grease coming out the sides of the nozzle I'm all ears.
Oops.I went a few miles out & back on a more aggressive trail than I'm used to.
I didn't push it as it was a spur of the moment detour on my way home from work. I was alone and no one knew I was there, but...
It parallels the highway. If I had issues the highway is ¼ mile away. And it is 9 miles from my house.
It's one end of a loop that I've done a bit of each end. Just need to go all the way around (9 miles) some time.
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I did an internship at a rocky quarry and we were always greasing loaders and crushers. Its pretty much unavoidable for greasing to be done cleanly, at least for me. Loaders get caked with rock dust, so I found replacing the problematic zerks and keeping them clean can really make a difference. Any time I had grease coming out around the nozzle, replacing the zerk would fix it. If your grease gun fits loosely on the fitting, then the tips should be replaceable as well.
edit: whoops I thought I was on the last page. Looks like your question has been answered.