originalg00kster
New member
Installed a Kicker HS10 powered 10” Subwoofer Under the passenger seat to add a little bass that was much needed.
are you using the oem radio headunit? also, did you hook up an amp to the sub? if so, where? looks great!
What did you do with your 4runner today?
- Thread starter NorthGa4R
- Start date
are you using the oem radio headunit? also, did you hook up an amp to the sub? if so, where? looks great!
cwilliams563
Member
Thank you, I tried to make it a clean install.
This is a powered subwoofer which contains an amp inside (all inclusive). I have an aftermarket Pioneer AVH-2550NEX Head unit. You can use the original HU as it only has Hi input (speaker wires from HU) signal from amp, no RCA’s which is how I wired it.
They do have an adapter which you purchase separate and wires into RCA jacks and can then plug into HU Subwoofer output which I was considering. Going to do more research to see if it improves sound quality or not. This was my short term plan for a quick cost effective install. Long term plan is to get a 5 Channel amp under driver seat and add a real sub I can take out and still have a little bass when it’s removed for trips.
originalg00kster
New member
Ah thank you thank you. please keep us updated, would love to see the future setup. Yeah, I just want a little thump but don't want to waste space for a sub/box.Thank you, I tried to make it a clean install.
This is a powered subwoofer which contains an amp inside (all inclusive). I have an aftermarket Pioneer AVH-2550NEX Head unit. You can use the original HU as it only has Hi input (speaker wires from HU) signal from amp, no RCA’s which is how I wired it.
They do have an adapter which you purchase separate and wires into RCA jacks and can then plug into HU Subwoofer output which I was considering. Going to do more research to see if it improves sound quality or not. This was my short term plan for a quick cost effective install. Long term plan is to get a 5 Channel amp under driver seat and add a real sub I can take out and still have a little bass when it’s removed for trips.
benztech82
Member
Replaced engine mounts, vibration is gone, no thump feeling when stopping.
P.s. this job was a pain, especially l/s mount and also aftermarket mounts had to be modified to fit properly.
Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
P.s. this job was a pain, especially l/s mount and also aftermarket mounts had to be modified to fit properly.
Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
Installed a Kicker HS10 powered 10” Subwoofer Under the passenger seat to add a little bass that was much needed.
Love this. Need a sub without loosing cargo space and minimal wiring. Thanks for sharing.
Aux jack rellocation
So was getting tired of the aux jack and Monster Cable for the mp3 player cutting out. Then it just died. So removed the button slot cover between the heated seat controllers and DAC button. Cut the end of the cover, so that the clip that snaps in is left. Used E-6000 adhesive to hold both pieces in (strong enough it aint goin nowhere, but you could still remove it without destroying anything). Just left the old jack in place, to cover the hole. Cable from the harness is long enough, but you cant lift the console/shifter cover up as far. Jack fits tight and flush.
So was getting tired of the aux jack and Monster Cable for the mp3 player cutting out. Then it just died. So removed the button slot cover between the heated seat controllers and DAC button. Cut the end of the cover, so that the clip that snaps in is left. Used E-6000 adhesive to hold both pieces in (strong enough it aint goin nowhere, but you could still remove it without destroying anything). Just left the old jack in place, to cover the hole. Cable from the harness is long enough, but you cant lift the console/shifter cover up as far. Jack fits tight and flush.
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Bluesky 07
Senior Member
Thank you, I tried to make it a clean install.
This is a powered subwoofer which contains an amp inside (all inclusive). I have an aftermarket Pioneer AVH-2550NEX Head unit. You can use the original HU as it only has Hi input (speaker wires from HU) signal from amp, no RCA’s which is how I wired it.
They do have an adapter which you purchase separate and wires into RCA jacks and can then plug into HU Subwoofer output which I was considering. Going to do more research to see if it improves sound quality or not. This was my short term plan for a quick cost effective install. Long term plan is to get a 5 Channel amp under driver seat and add a real sub I can take out and still have a little bass when it’s removed for trips.
Curious, should that have said, "You can't use the original HU..."?
cwilliams563
Member
Negative, you can use the factory HU or aftermarket.
The signal from the powered sub hooks to the speaker wire outputs.
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
Okay, thanks. I have an old Bazooka tube behind the driver's seat and it's hooked up through the speaker wires. I've had that thing for going on 15 years and it's still pounding away.
southern_runner
New member
Dropped the t-case. Got a used one to replace. Old one had a hole knocked into the side of it after the front driveshaft broke loose.
I got the 4Runner from my neighbor. Replacing the t-case, new driveshafts, new headlight assemblies, new windshield, and a bunch of little stuff like dash lights, hood struts, new stereo and speakers all around, etc.
Once I get the t-case back in it's going for a timing belt, I'm not going to try and tackle that one since I can't get it in the garage.
I got the 4Runner from my neighbor. Replacing the t-case, new driveshafts, new headlight assemblies, new windshield, and a bunch of little stuff like dash lights, hood struts, new stereo and speakers all around, etc.
Once I get the t-case back in it's going for a timing belt, I'm not going to try and tackle that one since I can't get it in the garage.
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Had to go back to the dealer to fix a VIN cut key. I only received 1 keyset with the car that was so worn, it only worked in the Ignition, no luck in the door or hatch.
Decided to have the dealer cut a new VIN key so I would have a clean primary key. I should have checked it when i was there, but did not. When I got home I programmed it following a thread here with success. But then found out it only worked in one direction on the door and hatch (dot down).
Took it back to the dealer they cleaned it up, and was able to get it to work both direction in the door. Cleaned it up a second time and with a little force was able to get the trunk to work in both direction. Third time was a charm.
Lesson is, if you have a dealer cut a vin key, test it all before you leave :nod:
Decided to have the dealer cut a new VIN key so I would have a clean primary key. I should have checked it when i was there, but did not. When I got home I programmed it following a thread here with success. But then found out it only worked in one direction on the door and hatch (dot down).
Took it back to the dealer they cleaned it up, and was able to get it to work both direction in the door. Cleaned it up a second time and with a little force was able to get the trunk to work in both direction. Third time was a charm.
Lesson is, if you have a dealer cut a vin key, test it all before you leave :nod:
I was able to get a couple things done that desperately needed to be done.
Had to do a full front brake service. I had a seized caliper on the front left, so that meant everything new had to go in. Duralast calipers (for the lifetime warranty), Duralast “Elite” pads and Duralast rotors. I did not have time to order the slotted rotors I would like to have or the Powerstop pads to match the rear. No one carried these parts local and RockAuto shipping was WAY too much to have them in a day. Had to have it done over the weekend to get to work the following. Had to paint the calipers because one came finished and the other came unfinished.
Next was lower ball joints. While I was in there, new sway bar end links and bushings to the frame went in to get rid of the clunks I had going on. I went with MOOG on all these parts.
Couple months before that, I had to replace the radiator. Ordered a Denso from RockAuto and it went in without a hitch.
All these repairs give me peace of mind but I have been chasing neglect from the previous owner. One day I’ll be able to get into some real mods.
Lastly I finally got around to Plastidip the emblems. Chrome be gone.
Had to do a full front brake service. I had a seized caliper on the front left, so that meant everything new had to go in. Duralast calipers (for the lifetime warranty), Duralast “Elite” pads and Duralast rotors. I did not have time to order the slotted rotors I would like to have or the Powerstop pads to match the rear. No one carried these parts local and RockAuto shipping was WAY too much to have them in a day. Had to have it done over the weekend to get to work the following. Had to paint the calipers because one came finished and the other came unfinished.
Next was lower ball joints. While I was in there, new sway bar end links and bushings to the frame went in to get rid of the clunks I had going on. I went with MOOG on all these parts.
Couple months before that, I had to replace the radiator. Ordered a Denso from RockAuto and it went in without a hitch.
All these repairs give me peace of mind but I have been chasing neglect from the previous owner. One day I’ll be able to get into some real mods.
Lastly I finally got around to Plastidip the emblems. Chrome be gone.
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WyEast-08
New member
Did some exploring in Central Oregon.
Unfortunately, on the way home, opened up the glove box to find that something had gotten into the glove box and made a nest during the trip.
Got home and replaced the cabin filter (chewed seeds and parts of a tissue)
Opened up the engine cowling and made a steel mesh covering for cabin air intake using Kwik Mesh from Home Depot.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=383603&stc=1
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=383604&stc=1&d=1624260317d=1624260306
Unfortunately, on the way home, opened up the glove box to find that something had gotten into the glove box and made a nest during the trip.
Got home and replaced the cabin filter (chewed seeds and parts of a tissue)
Opened up the engine cowling and made a steel mesh covering for cabin air intake using Kwik Mesh from Home Depot.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=383603&stc=1
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=383604&stc=1&d=1624260317d=1624260306
Attachments
gm350reratliff
New member
Finally replaced the chrome door handles with black handles.
I also detailed it today inside and out since it was pretty filthy. What started as a simple wash and vacuum snowballed into a full detail, buff and wax thanks to my OCD and a can of Red Bull. Should be good for a while now.
I also detailed it today inside and out since it was pretty filthy. What started as a simple wash and vacuum snowballed into a full detail, buff and wax thanks to my OCD and a can of Red Bull. Should be good for a while now.
montijo505
Senior Member
Finally replaced the chrome door handles with black handles.
I also detailed it today inside and out since it was pretty filthy. What started as a simple wash and vacuum snowballed into a full detail, buff and wax thanks to my OCD and a can of Red Bull. Should be good for a while now.
Got a link or part number for the handles?
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