What do you do with the sway bar when endlinks are disconnected?

[JayRolla]

I did this for a while but got tired of bolting and unbolting the front link all of the time so I just got rid of the front sway bar altogether. And I agree with your points about CV's. In my opinion, excessive front lift is what destroys CV's above anything else.

Best Front: No swaybar
Best rear: stock rear 2nd gen 4runner links
:thumb3:

But seriously, it depends on what you're doing. If you want to squeeze the most performance and travel (a whole 7.75" to be exact!) out of your IFS off road, removing the front sway bar is a must.

I completely disagree no front is best option. Night and day difference. Connected is very nice on mountain passes.

Best front. Disconnects.

Best rear: sway bar relocation brackets with oem links.

 

[bugman-74]

what do you guys do with the sway bar when the endlinks are disconnected?

Bringing this thread back from the dead to pass this info along: I find that my sway bar likes to rest on the rack boots if not secured. A strap may not be necessary, but I am experimenting with one I found on McMaster-Carr (#6912K55). It is a Rip-Tie CinchStrap-EG 1"X10". Made in USA and rated to 10,000 release cycles.

There are several mounting options: 1) Attach to the existing hole in the frame as shown below. You will need a nut and bolt, or 2) open up the grommet ID a little (use a tapered punch) and install at the existing brake line bracket. Both options are depicted below. So far I like #1 the best. Time will tell how this holds up.

 

[floatingkiwi]

Guys, unless you have modified suspension (i.e just a lift) all you have to do is completely remove one of the sway bar front links from one side only. The sway bar will not hit the chassis, lower arm or steering linkage at full stuff or droop on either side.

 

[D Farms]

you really shouldnt be disconnecting the rear at all, unless you remove the entire thing. if the sway bar were attached to the frame it would be another story. the sway bar itself will interfere with the links and get bent very quickly or damage something. if you wanted to do a quick disconnect rear, a better option would be making a new sway bar that attaches to the frame and the links go down to the axle. plus you save some unsprung weight haha...

 

[AssBurns]

Removing one link on the front is fine and it does help a little bit with flex. I just completely removed my front sway bar and never put it back on. I don't recommend it but I haven't had any issues.
The rear is a different story. I have tried pretty much every combination. The safest thing is obviously to just keep them on all the time. Also disconnecting one link will help with flex a little but you will hear one side hitting your lower control arm when flexed, which could possibly end up being a really bad thing like bent control arms. Disconnecting both while leaving the sway bar on is not a good idea either because they will bind with the lower control arms and also bounce around and cause damage to your links. You can't really tie up the rear sway bar because it moves with the axle and will either rip whatever is strapping them up or simply bind with itself. The best bet would be to just completely remove the whole sway bar. It's definitely not safe for highway use so unless you are going to be going straight to and from the trail and not going down winding roads then you'll probably be fine. Just gotta know you have to be extremely cautious. I've driven a lot with both sway bars removed and I wouldn't recommend it and I don't let anyone drive my vehicle on the road when the rear sway bar is off.

 

[MountainBiker]

I'm underwhelmed. Only one post with pictures that directly(and seriously) answers the original question: "What do you do with the sway bar when endlinks are disconnected (using quick disconnects)?" I suppose that the answers saying "just let them hang" could be serious, but I'd like to see some photos with them hanging down, and not hitting the ground or anything else.

My experience:
I removed my rear anti sway bar after installing the lift, since the lift made it impossible to use the rear bar without it rubbing on the e-locker motor housing. With the damping rates and springs I'm using, I feel safe with the rear bar removed. However, if I had longer links, I'd probably but the bar back on. YMMV

I've experimented with disconnecting one link on my front ASB, and I really enjoy the improved ride comfort! Although I'm not sure it helps articulation enough to be worth it, the ride comfort is definitely worth it. However, with my lift the disconnected end of the bar hits the steering rack bushing, so it isn't a good long term solution.

Once we get some better answers to the OP's question, I'll be able to choose a path forward between these two options:

1. Get longer front end links, and run with just one removed (the longer links would keep the bar from crashing into the rack bushing)
2. buy/make some disconnects for both ends of the front bar, disco both and attach bar to something

 

[JayRolla]

I'm underwhelmed. Only one post with pictures that directly(and seriously) answers the original question: "What do you do with the sway bar when endlinks are disconnected (using quick disconnects)?" I suppose that the answers saying "just let them hang" could be serious, but I'd like to see some photos with them hanging down, and not hitting the ground or anything else.

My experience:
I removed my rear anti sway bar after installing the lift, since the lift made it impossible to use the rear bar without it rubbing on the e-locker motor housing. With the damping rates and springs I'm using, I feel safe with the rear bar removed. However, if I had longer links, I'd probably but the bar back on. YMMV

I've experimented with disconnecting one link on my front ASB, and I really enjoy the improved ride comfort! Although I'm not sure it helps articulation enough to be worth it, the ride comfort is definitely worth it. However, with my lift the disconnected end of the bar hits the steering rack bushing, so it isn't a good long term solution.

Once we get some better answers to the OP's question, I'll be able to choose a path forward between these two options:

1. Get longer front end links, and run with just one removed (the longer links would keep the bar from crashing into the rack bushing)
2. buy/make some disconnects for both ends of the front bar, disco both and attach bar to something

I disconnect front and just hangs. I push bar up. Drive for years like this no issues. Rear I have SS lift brackets on the bar. They work great. Need to get some longer ones soon though.

 

[BrianSD_42]

I'm underwhelmed. Only one post with pictures that directly(and seriously) answers the original question


...

Once we get some better answers to the OP's question, I'll be able to choose a path forward between these two options:

1. Get longer front end links, and run with just one removed (the longer links would keep the bar from crashing into the rack bushing)
2. buy/make some disconnects for both ends of the front bar, disco both and attach bar to something

The answer is:

1) If you are lifted get extended links for the front

2) If you decide to temporarily disconnect the front links DO BOTH SIDES

3) Do not remove your rear sway bar. There is not a significant benefit worth the risk. Removing the rear does not noticeably increase travel. I can hit max travel in the rear with the rear sway bar fully attached. Also several members have stated that they almost lost control of their vehicle on dirt roads after removing the rear sway bar.

Here is me in Anza-Borrego at a drop off with both sway bars on and yes extended links in the front.


@55sec

<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/_9EpAKwYNwo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


:usa2:

 

[Nottoday]

Sorry for newb question! I just picked up at 2000 4Runner and the sway bar links in the front are all broken. The bushings are gone also. I plan on replacing the links and bushings within the next few months. However this being my "camping" rig, I'm not in a hurry to part with the cash. I wanted to take my sway bar off since it is rattling around like a SOB. I wanted to know:

Can I remove the links safely with the truck on the ground or do I need to jack it up and or it on Jack stands. I am asking because I do not have Jack stands yet. I don't want to start Unbolting it and find it it needs to be jacked up to have the load off by the bar violently popping off the link!!!

Thanks for the help!!!!

 

[AssBurns]

You should be able to remove the front without jack stands. The rear requires you to pull off the wheel to get the sway bar out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MountainBiker]

The answer is:

1) If you are lifted get extended links for the front

2) If you decide to temporarily disconnect the front links DO BOTH SIDES

3) Do not remove your rear sway bar. There is not a significant benefit worth the risk. Removing the rear does not noticeably increase travel. I can hit max travel in the rear with the rear sway bar fully attached. Also several members have stated that they almost lost control of their vehicle on dirt roads after removing the rear sway bar.

Thanks!

Oddly, removing the rear bar improved my on-road handling. After I installed my lift, I had a few very scary trailing-throttle-oversteer moments when entering downhill corners. As a former roadracer, I can see the "fun" of a tailhappy vehicle, but that is not how I want to drive my 4x4! I also found that the rear bar was rubbing the sheet metal guard that is over the e-locker motor, so I took it off, and my trailing-throttle-oversteer went away.

Everyone's vehicle set up is different, and thus different solutions are needed. THere are so many variables, with damping, lift height, tires, spring rates being just a small fraction of them. I'm constantly experimenting with different set ups to find the optimum. I can't stop myself from tinkering, I'm an engineer!

I'll be getting a set of links from Mstudt, I just have to decide if I'll bother to buy the rears. I probably will, but I hope they don't end up back on the shelf after trying them out. I also have some lighter springs to try out on the front... the tinkering continues, my list is long!

 

[brighterside]

No you can't!

If you think about this situation it's very bad. On the front or rear if you keep one side connected that other side will move the exact same way. So if you're stuffed into the front wheel well on the passenger side the other side is doing the same (you're connected on that side). Now you're at full droop on the passenger side the other side is doing the same thing. Opps, there goes your CV!

That reason is why I always give my personal advise. I don't want to be responsible for ****ing up someons's 4runner. Just don't do it on one side. Do both sides or nothing at all.

this happened to me. its true