What else should I be doing here?

[Dubdoubt]

I have a 97 limited that I plan on starting to freshen up come October. It has 190k miles on it currently, not a daily driver. At 152k I put new plugs, wires, timing belt, water pump, radiator, hoses, and valve gaskets. Just recently around 185k I put a new master cylinder in, front and rear brakes and rotors, rear shocks and coils. So next month I want to do front struts, tie rods, lower and upper control arm bushings, lbj, cv's, rack and pinion, fuel filter, do the fluids for front and rear diff, and trans. Is there anything else I could replace in the front while I'm at it?

Also, other than LBJ being OEM is there anything else that really needs to be replaced with OEM parts? I know stirring the pot with that question.

This is not lifted and stock height and I use it to drive on the beach to fish and around town once or twice a week right now.

 

[Brian.]

Looks like you've got things pretty well covered from the mechanical point ~ I'd do all the bushings though, and not Just the control arms (panhard, steering rack, swaybars ~ and rear control arms if you're thinking of doing just the front). I did everything but the Panhard and still had some handling weirdness, all corrected once I did those final 2 bushings.

Vacuum lines are the only other thing that comes to mind that I've done. And I've been meaning to address the rear heater coolant system as that's been an area I've seen other have problems with as time marches on (you may not have a rear heater though).

 

[Dubdoubt]

Looks like you've got things pretty well covered from the mechanical point ~ I'd do all the bushings though, and not Just the control arms (panhard, steering rack, swaybars ~ and rear control arms if you're thinking of doing just the front). I did everything but the Panhard and still had some handling weirdness, all corrected once I did those final 2 bushings.

Vacuum lines are the only other thing that comes to mind that I've done. And I've been meaning to address the rear heater coolant system as that's been an area I've seen other have problems with as time marches on (you may not have a rear heater though).

Yeah I think I'm just going to go with energy bushings throughout except in the arms and use whiteline there is the plan. But I didn't think of the rear not sure why, but will add it to my list.

My vacuum lines looked decent when I was looking under the hood yesterday figuring out a buzzing noise from what I took as the evap canister. Yeah my rear heater does not work not even sure when it worked last.

 

[mtbtim]

Yeah I think I'm just going to go with energy bushings throughout except in the arms and use whiteline there is the plan. But I didn't think of the rear not sure why, but will add it to my list.

My vacuum lines looked decent when I was looking under the hood yesterday figuring out a buzzing noise from what I took as the evap canister. Yeah my rear heater does not work not even sure when it worked last.

For all the work you have planned, we have videos for. I'm assuming you know about our channel, but in case you don't, here's a link.
Timmy The Toolman - YouTube

Definitely use Whiteline for the control arm bushings. I don't know if they make bushings for the front uppers though. It is a good idea to do the rear control arms as well. It will help with the handling of your rig especially when going over humps or bumps. The rear end will stay more steady and not sway.



t

 

[Bad Luck]

I have a 97 limited that I plan on starting to freshen up come October. It has 190k miles on it currently, not a daily driver. At 152k I put new plugs, wires, timing belt, water pump, radiator, hoses, and valve gaskets. Just recently around 185k I put a new master cylinder in, front and rear brakes and rotors, rear shocks and coils. So next month I want to do front struts, tie rods, lower and upper control arm bushings, lbj, cv's, rack and pinion, fuel filter, do the fluids for front and rear diff, and trans. Is there anything else I could replace in the front while I'm at it?

Also, other than LBJ being OEM is there anything else that really needs to be replaced with OEM parts? I know stirring the pot with that question.

This is not lifted and stock height and I use it to drive on the beach to fish and around town once or twice a week right now.

I would add spark plugs (30k mile service interval) to your maintenance list. I would also add cleaning the power steering fluid reservoir and flushing it with new transmission fluid (Dexron 3 compatible fluid). Transfer case could use new fluid too while you are there. Don't forget to replace the lower ball joint bolts with OEM as well.

Apart from LBJ and LBJ bolts, OEM is not required for the rest of things you listed. Make sure you get new crush washers/seals for the front/rear diff and transfer case drain and fill plugs. OEM ones are pretty reasonably priced for those in my opinion. Since you are servicing the front diff now would be a good time to replace the drain and fill plugs with hex head plugs. If you are interested in that I can give you the OEM part numbers for it.

 

[Dubdoubt]

For all the work you have planned, we have videos for. I'm assuming you know about our channel, but in case you don't, here's a link.
Timmy The Toolman - YouTube

Definitely use Whiteline for the control arm bushings. I don't know if they make bushings for the front uppers though. It is a good idea to do the rear control arms as well. It will help with the handling of your rig especially when going over humps or bumps. The rear end will stay more steady and not sway.



t

Yeah watching your videos has helped me a lot in preparation for what I plan on doing here soon. I really do appreciate you putting those videos out, it has helped me tremendously

 

[Dubdoubt]

I would add spark plugs (30k mile service interval) to your maintenance list. I would also add cleaning the power steering fluid reservoir and flushing it with new transmission fluid (Dexron 3 compatible fluid). Transfer case could use new fluid too while you are there. Don't forget to replace the lower ball joint bolts with OEM as well.

Apart from LBJ and LBJ bolts, OEM is not required for the rest of things you listed. Make sure you get new crush washers/seals for the front/rear diff and transfer case drain and fill plugs. OEM ones are pretty reasonably priced for those in my opinion. Since you are servicing the front diff now would be a good time to replace the drain and fill plugs with hex head plugs. If you are interested in that I can give you the OEM part numbers for it.

I'll put them on the list, thank you. Yeah sorry meant to mention transmission and transfer case are in with the front and rear diff. Sometimes I don't type as fast as my brain thinks at times. I did get new crush washers and new drain and fill bolts. But I didn't get hex bolts for the front, so if you have those parts numbers I would greatly appreciate it.

Yeah I was doing oem lbj and new bolts, oem rack and pinion is what I'm leaning towards and napa cv and tie rods.

I'll also add the power steering res flush to my list.

 

[Bad Luck]

I'll put them on the list, thank you. Yeah sorry meant to mention transmission and transfer case are in with the front and rear diff. Sometimes I don't type as fast as my brain thinks at times. I did get new crush washers and new drain and fill bolts. But I didn't get hex bolts for the front, so if you have those parts numbers I would greatly appreciate it.

Yeah I was doing oem lbj and new bolts, oem rack and pinion is what I'm leaning towards and napa cv and tie rods.

I'll also add the power steering res flush to my list.

Lexus front diff drain plug (14mm head) 90341-24016
Lexus front diff fill plug (14mm head) 90341-18060

An OEM rack will come with the inners. I think OEM outers are only $60/ea on amayama.com
L Outer Tie Rod 45047-39215
R Outer Tie Rod 45046-39335

Make sure to pull the power steering reservoir off the pump and clean the screen. Makes a HUGE difference! You'll need a new o ring for the reservoir when you put it back on 90301-11016. [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] has a video on removing it and cleaning it that I'll promote for him: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2881368-post422.html

 

[nissanh]

Do you plan to keep the truck for another 10+ years? If yes, then I'd use OEM parts. Truly, the price gap between OEM and A/M parts are not significant. I did all front bushings OEM and I am happy the old bushings lasted 25 years and the new bushings would last at least the same! I am at 220K miles and the steering components are still factory! At the alignment, a guy asked me to get inner-end of the steering rack (said it is faulty): This is 20K miles ago! I know Toyota parts so I pass his suggestion. I am glad I did that!

You can get bushings for less at partsouq.com: The inner-rack ends come with the steering (OEM):

 

[Mark_BC]

Check the coolant lines running underneath back to the rear heater for corrosion. If they rust through then you will lose all your coolant one day and overheat. ideally just remove them and plug.

 

[Dubdoubt]

Lexus front diff drain plug (14mm head) 90341-24016
Lexus front diff fill plug (14mm head) 90341-18060

An OEM rack will come with the inners. I think OEM outers are only $60/ea on amayama.com
L Outer Tie Rod 45047-39215
R Outer Tie Rod 45046-39335

Make sure to pull the power steering reservoir off the pump and clean the screen. Makes a HUGE difference! You'll need a new o ring for the reservoir when you put it back on 90301-11016. [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] has a video on removing it and cleaning it that I'll promote for him: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2881368-post422.html

Thank you for this!

 

[Dubdoubt]

Do you plan to keep the truck for another 10+ years? If yes, then I'd use OEM parts. Truly, the price gap between OEM and A/M parts are not significant. I did all front bushings OEM and I am happy the old bushings lasted 25 years and the new bushings would last at least the same! I am at 220K miles and the steering components are still factory! At the alignment, a guy asked me to get inner-end of the steering rack (said it is faulty): This is 20K miles ago! I know Toyota parts so I pass his suggestion. I am glad I did that!

You can get bushings for less at partsouq.com: The inner-rack ends come with the steering (OEM):

Yeah, I plan on keeping this thing going forever. It was my grandfathers since 97 and when he passed I bought it off my grandmother to keep it for sentimental purposes for all the good times we had in it when I was growing up. I want to keep it rolling and continue the good times with my kids in it. So I want to do it right and not cut corners and if that means OEM then that's the way I will go.

 

[Dubdoubt]

Check the coolant lines running underneath back to the rear heater for corrosion. If they rust through then you will lose all your coolant one day and overheat. ideally just remove them and plug.

I'll have to look and see. Can i replace the line or does everyone just remove and plug?

 

[Mark_BC]

I'll have to look and see. Can i replace the line or does everyone just remove and plug?

Some people replace. The 01-02's had aluminum lines so some people look for those. Most people just remove and plug the lines; depends if you want to use the rear heater. I'm just mentioning because you are in the rust belt and if it's been driven in winter then corrosion will have started on those lines. In Phoenix, don't worry about it, worry about your paint....

 

[CougarHound]

I would check your differential breathers to see if it is clogged...Or you can just wait for the axle seals to bust like mine did. Mission creep sucks.

I do OEM for anything safety related (suspension), electronics, or when I don't want any headaches on tough jobs with fitment issues (ujoints). I also like the OEM steering feel and would rather not have sloppy steering from substandard parts. Control arms for example.

 

[cblock406]

Sounds like you've covered just about everything. I'd also do sway bar bushings and new endlinks while you are at it. I've replaced everything you've mentioned in your suspension and it made a BIG difference and feels great for a 25 year old SUV.

 

[Dubdoubt]

Some people replace. The 01-02's had aluminum lines so some people look for those. Most people just remove and plug the lines; depends if you want to use the rear heater. I'm just mentioning because you are in the rust belt and if it's been driven in winter then corrosion will have started on those lines. In Phoenix, don't worry about it, worry about your paint....

I'll most likely lean towards replacing them so my kids could have heat. Yeah it's not to terrible in DE with the snow, salt and all. There surface rust underneath that I'm going to wire wheel this fall and treat with por-15 before applying a top coat. Seemed to work really well on my 7.3 before I got rid of it for the 4runner.

 

[Dubdoubt]

I would check your differential breathers to see if it is clogged...Or you can just wait for the axle seals to bust like mine did. Mission creep sucks.

I do OEM for anything safety related (suspension), electronics, or when I don't want any headaches on tough jobs with fitment issues (ujoints). I also like the OEM steering feel and would rather not have sloppy steering from substandard parts. Control arms for example.

I ordered the breathers too when I ordered the drain and fill bolts and crush washers and all. Just easier to do it while I'm replacing everything else.

From what I can tell from all his records from the time he had it was he used oem for majority of it all.

 

[brillo_76]

I'll most likely lean towards replacing them so my kids could have heat. Yeah it's not to terrible in DE with the snow, salt and all. There surface rust underneath that I'm going to wire wheel this fall and treat with por-15 before applying a top coat. Seemed to work really well on my 7.3 before I got rid of it for the 4runner.

I pull those lines off at the pick and pulls. I think you can buy them new. 01 and 02 are stainless steel lines to the rear heater.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[CougarHound]

My rack was also leaking at the steering column input seal but I used a little bit of atp-205 and it stopped the leak. I didn't feel like replacing it after replacing the inner tie rods and power steering lines.

I plan on doing the oil cooler to prevent that pink milkshake problem. I'm sorta skeptical about this issue though. I think it probably happens because of improper maint.