What else to do while front diff and LCAs are out

W

WeakSauz

New member
Hi guys,

I'm about to tear into the front end of my 3rd gen to replace the front diff and LCAs (poly bushings). I'm going back with new OEM LBJs and new bolts while I'm there. Also doing new alignment cams and bolts.

Anything I need to consider replacing while I'm that far into the job with all of those parts removed?

Already new:
CVs, Steering rack, intermediate shaft, inner and outer tie rods, durobump diff mount bushings, wheel bearings, brakes, brake lines.

Anything else I may be missing? In other words, once I install this diff, I really dont want to have to wrestle it back out ever again haha :)
 
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If you have the front diff out, consider dropping the oil pan and resealing it if it shows signs of leaking. The oil pan can't come out unless the diff is out of the way.
 
mtbtim said:
If you have the front diff out, consider dropping the oil pan and resealing it if it shows signs of leaking. The oil pan can't come out unless the diff is out of the way.
Click to expand...

Thank you, Tim! I will have a better look at the pan when the diff is out of the way. No visible leaks from what I can see now, thankfully.

I'll be using your video as a guide when maneuvering the diff out! Jacking the engine up a little with a piece of wood sounds like the way to go to avoid cussing.

Thanks for your videos!
 
WeakSauz said:
Hi guys,

I'm about to tear into the front end of my 3rd gen to replace the front diff and LCAs (poly bushings). I'm going back with new OEM LBJs and new bolts while I'm there. Also doing new alignment cams and bolts.

Anything I need to consider replacing while I'm that far into the job with all of those parts removed?

Already new:
CVs, Steering rack, intermediate shaft, inner and outer tie rods, durobump diff mount bushings, wheel bearings, brakes, brake lines.

Anything else I may be missing? In other words, once I install this diff, I really dont want to have to wrestle it back in ever again haha :)
Click to expand...

mtbtim said:
If you have the front diff out, consider dropping the oil pan and resealing it if it shows signs of leaking. The oil pan can't come out unless the diff is out of the way.
Click to expand...

I will double that suggestion from [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]. if you have access to the pan you should just re-seal the pan regardless. The seal pac starts to break down after about 18-20 years and will leak.
 
sleepydad said:
I will double that suggestion from [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]. if you have access to the pan you should just re-seal the pan regardless. The seal pac starts to break down after about 18-20 years and will leak.
Click to expand...

You guys typically use the orange FIPG on it?
 
SeaBassHWD said:
Replace the needle bearing on the drivers side of the front diff if you're lifted.
Click to expand...

Good idea, and it just so happens [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] have a video for it.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/sXIfHArtvF8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
mtbtim said:
Good idea, and it just so happens [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] have a video for it.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys! My front diff is a ECGS unit with the clamshell bushing installed already. (needle bearings eliminated)

I am so glad I made this thread now-- didn't even think about the oil pan! Might as well while i'm 90% there
 
mtbtim said:
Good idea, and it just so happens [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] have a video for it.
Click to expand...
Was not aware this was a thing. Tim and Sean saving our asses again. Hate trying to gather all these little things needed/recommended for a lift
 
mtbtim said:
If you have the front diff out, consider dropping the oil pan and resealing it if it shows signs of leaking. The oil pan can't come out unless the diff is out of the way.
Click to expand...
So I was under the impression the diff needed to be much more removed for the drop and went ahead and got stuff preemptively to do this re-sealing, only to find out the diff just needs to be lowered an inch or two for the spacers to slide in (and is a very easy job all around). That being said, does the diff need to come FULLY out to to drop the oil pan, or can it simply be lowered some and perhaps tilted out the way to allow clearance?
 
Devbot said:
So I was under the impression the diff needed to be much more removed for the drop and went ahead and got stuff preemptively to do this re-sealing, only to find out the diff just needs to be lowered an inch or two for the spacers to slide in (and is a very easy job all around). That being said, does the diff need to come FULLY out to to drop the oil pan, or can it simply be lowered some and perhaps tilted out the way to allow clearance?
Click to expand...


The diff needs to come all the way out to drop the oil pan.
 
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