what is the best motor oil for runner98

[Nunyabiz]

This is one of those religious kinda questions.

I think I would stick with 5W30 regardless of what type. Though in a climate that stays hot 10W30 wont kill you.

Basically ANY oil will do fine for the most part for general driving as long as you change it at 3000 miles for petroleum oil. You couldn't pay me to run petroleum much more than that.
If you do a lot of towing or put mostly hard miles on it, stop and go, very short trips in very cold weather etc then you would be better served by using a true 100% synthetic like Amsoil or Redline or whatever the one version of Mobil One that is actually a real Class IV synthetic.
Then use the highest quality Oil Filter you can get your hands on.

Change it every 8000 miles or 1 year which ever comes first.

If you do a lot of highway driving your best bet is to go with 100% synthetic and install a Bypass Oil filter, the filter will keep the oil cleaner far longer which is really the key.
I still wouldn't run the oil anymore than about 12,000 miles though at the most and thats if its mostly all highway miles.

I average about 8,000 or less miles a year so to me going 100% synthetic and doing one oil change a year makes the most sense, doesn't cost me anymore than cheap petroleum and is better for the engine its a win win no brainer.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I've used Pennzoil platinum or ultra in everything that calls for a 5w30.

Though with 255,000 miles I'm thinking about Rotella T6 5w40

 

[amalik]

The Maxlife will serve you well.

Mobil Super High Mileage is also a good choice.

hey LC,

I just put in Valvoline Maxlife 5W-30 @ 231k, previous 231k was dino oil, lol. I wanted to finally make the switch.

Quick question, it took 6 damn quarts. Dino normally took 5.5. Sounds normal to you?

Also, is this a full synthetic, the product you mentioned? https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-super/mobil-super-high-mileage

Asking since the Maxlife is a blend. I'd prefer full synthetic.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

With the larger Motorcraft oil filter it's 6qt for me. And I ran the 5w40 T6 in the 3.4 for 2 years before it got wrecked.


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[amalik]

With the larger Motorcraft oil filter it's 6qt for me. And I ran the 5w40 T6 in the 3.4 for 2 years before it got wrecked.


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My filter is OEM Toyota.

 

[StreetCreeper]

hey LC,

I just put in Valvoline Maxlife 5W-30 @ 231k, previous 231k was dino oil, lol. I wanted to finally make the switch.

Quick question, it took 6 damn quarts. Dino normally took 5.5. Sounds normal to you?

Also, is this a full synthetic, the product you mentioned? https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-super/mobil-super-high-mileage

Asking since the Maxlife is a blend. I'd prefer full synthetic.

Not speaking for LC, but 5.5 quarts is normal and even more if you are running a bigger filter like a Toyota D3. Like 1996.3.4lsr5 mentioned above, the bigger filters will make you add about 6 quarts or so.

Also, if you like Valvoline MaxLife oil but want a full synthetic, they do make it in a regular and a high milage variation too.

​

 

[amalik]

Not speaking for LC, but 5.5 quarts is normal and even more if you are running a bigger filter like a Toyota D3. Like 1996.3.4lsr5 mentioned above, the bigger filters will make you add about 6 quarts or so.

Also, if you like Valvoline MaxLife oil but want a full synthetic, they do make it in a regular and a high milage variation too.

​

Damnit!

I picked up the 'semi' syn MaxLife from my local Walmart, they didn't stock (or out of stock) that full syn one but I was looking everywhere for it!!!

In ~4-5k miles or so, I'll check and compare prices on the M1, Max-Life full syn, etc. I'm officially converted to synthetic though, mainly doing it for the OCI as I'd rather *not* have to think about an oil change every 3k. Even if I use a 6k OCI, still double the time/mileage compared to the 3k schedule I've been on forever.

 

[johnbyebye]

I've heard of full synthetic slipping past seals in engines that had previously run conventional. Seems to be purely anecdotal, but I'd take it in mind if a leak pops up.

Personally, I use Castrol High Mileage 5W-30 continuing from the PO.

With the OEM filter I did add closer to 6 quarts.

 

[JZiggy]

I've heard of full synthetic slipping past seals in engines that had previously run conventional. Seems to be purely anecdotal, but I'd take it in mind if a leak pops up.

Personally, I use Castrol High Mileage 5W-30 continuing from the PO.

With the OEM filter I did add closer to 6 quarts.

That was more true in the past when seals were typically made with lower performance rubber materials. Could still happen with worn out seals though.

 

[StreetCreeper]

Well I run full synthetic M1 and it doesn't use anymore than when I used full dyno or synthetic blends.

@419,000 miles, using some oil between 5000 mile oil changes is to be expected. I lose about half a quart per 5k these days and most of that is from the rear main seal and valve covers leaking.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Here of late I've been using Pennzoil platinum high mileage. (When it's on the shelf at Walmart anyway) 5w30 in the lower mileage 97.


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[LittleCaesar]

[MENTION=115590]StreetCreeper[/MENTION] found the better Maxlife; I only use the red jug semi since it is cheaper. And I have some leaking valve stem seals that seem not to leak with semi synthetic oil vs full synthetic.

But if one wants to use a full synthetic high mileage oil, this stuff is golden:
https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-Synthetic-MaxLife-Technology-5W-30/dp/B000GAQSNC

 

[amalik]

I've heard of full synthetic slipping past seals in engines that had previously run conventional. Seems to be purely anecdotal, but I'd take it in mind if a leak pops up.

Personally, I use Castrol High Mileage 5W-30 continuing from the PO.

With the OEM filter I did add closer to 6 quarts.

I have leaks anyway. Might as well get the added performance of synthetic.

And honestly, I added 6 full quarts of Maxlife 5W-30 blend, and i'm STILL only past the first dot on the dipstick, not fully to the 2nd dot. Unreal!!!
[MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION], still awaiting reply from you if the M1 HM is a full synthetic. I'm surprised the website didn't say.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I have leaks anyway. Might as well get the added performance of synthetic.

And honestly, I added 6 full quarts of Maxlife 5W-30 blend, and i'm STILL only past the first dot on the dipstick, not fully to the 2nd dot. Unreal!!!

[MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION], still awaiting reply from you if the M1 HM is a full synthetic. I'm surprised the website didn't say.

Hey man, sorry about that. A day at the dentist, being a Monday, has made it a long one.

ALL Mobil 1 oils are full synthetic, including their High Mileage. My father ran Mobil 1 10w-30 HM in his Exploder for the last 100K miles to 308k. Excellent oil. The valvetrain was spotless and the compression numbers on the engine were all above 180.

Mobil SUPER and SUPER high mileage are conventional but great oils for the buck, especially the latter. But Mobil does make a SUPER Synthetic. Why? That I don't know. If one wants a synthetic Mobil, I'd buy Mobil 1.

 

[DK327]

I've been using Mobil Super High Mileage since I got my T4R, close to 10K miles ago. I've been told the previous owner did the same and I've done 3 oil changes so far, at 3K mile intervals and it's been performing good. I think nowadays almost any major brand will do the job, so long as you change the oil at regular intervals. I didn't want to go full synthetic because of the age/mileage of the engine but from what I understand Mobil Super High Mileage is synth blend...

One thing to note; I remember seeing in the back of 5QT oil jug that said to use it on vehicles older than year 2000 and the following is a customer comment with title "don't use on anything newer than 2000" on Walmart.com regarding the product.

"The previous API service category rating for gasoline engines was SM, introduced in November 2004 for 2005 and newer engines. SM-rated oils along with the previous SL (2001) and SJ (1997) ratings, are also backwards compatible and can be safely used in older engines with exceptions (see update below). But the opposite is not true. Older obsolete service classifications (SH, SG, SF, etc.) may not meet OEM lubrication requirements for newer engines. Likewise, API SL oils should not be used in 2005 and later vehicles, and SJ oils should not be used in 2001 and newer vehicles."

...for what it's worth.

 

[amalik]

Hey man, sorry about that. A day at the dentist, being a Monday, has made it a long one.

ALL Mobil 1 oils are full synthetic, including their High Mileage. My father ran Mobil 1 10w-30 HM in his Exploder for the last 100K miles to 308k. Excellent oil. The valvetrain was spotless and the compression numbers on the engine were all above 180.

Mobil SUPER and SUPER high mileage are conventional but great oils for the buck, especially the latter. But Mobil does make a SUPER Synthetic. Why? That I don't know. If one wants a synthetic Mobil, I'd buy Mobil 1.

Sorry for the rush, I work online and I'm on T4R a whole lot

Beautiful reply. Thank you.

The Amazon link you posted is the wrong way to go Valvoline full 5W-30 Synthetic.

Check this out:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/23636909...75035&wl11=online&wl12=23636909&wl13=&veh=sem

I will either do that on my next change or below:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-...35&wl11=local&wl12=17018131&wl13=3566&veh=sem

Honestly, both are reasonable cost to me.

Got a good filter recommendation that would pair with either of those?

Honestly, not looking for a 10K OCI or anything like that, would probably be happy with something like 7k-8k for OCI/FCI and would probably send Blackstone a sample to check it out at 7k as I've never been synthetic before this... first 230k miles were dino.

The problem is I drive a Civic more than 4Runner, so a lot of time she is sitting! 8k OCI will take me a long time. But if I only drive her every few days and short distances at that; I'd rather it be with a full synthetic in the engine during the resting periods.

P.S. - A 308k mile Exploder sounds like a Unicorn. I'm impressed.

 

[StreetCreeper]

...
P.S. - A 308k mile Exploder sounds like a Unicorn. I'm impressed.

Hahaha....I think he included all the miles spent hooked to the back of a tow truck as well.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Hahaha....I think he included all the miles spent hooked to the back of a tow truck as well.

Believe it or not the trans finally gave out at 308k miles so my dad sold his 94 exploder to the neighborhood kid for $1. The kid had a remanned one put in for $600 and two years later it has about 330k on it now though the clear coat is finally gone.

The regular change of fluids, a light foot and some luck got my father that far.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Sorry for the rush, I work online and I'm on T4R a whole lot

Beautiful reply. Thank you.

The Amazon link you posted is the wrong way to go Valvoline full 5W-30 Synthetic.

Check this out:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/23636909...75035&wl11=online&wl12=23636909&wl13=&veh=sem

I will either do that on my next change or below:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-...35&wl11=local&wl12=17018131&wl13=3566&veh=sem

Honestly, both are reasonable cost to me.

Got a good filter recommendation that would pair with either of those?

Honestly, not looking for a 10K OCI or anything like that, would probably be happy with something like 7k-8k for OCI/FCI and would probably send Blackstone a sample to check it out at 7k as I've never been synthetic before this... first 230k miles were dino.

The problem is I drive a Civic more than 4Runner, so a lot of time she is sitting! 8k OCI will take me a long time. But if I only drive her every few days and short distances at that; I'd rather it be with a full synthetic in the engine during the resting periods.

P.S. - A 308k mile Exploder sounds like a Unicorn. I'm impressed.

The OEM filter works well. The Purolator PL20195 is a good buy too but these days I use a Bosch D3422. Excellent filter and is only $12 at Walmart where I purchase the Maxlife.

 

[RockyrT4R]

I tend to like Water or antifreeze, whatever is handy:boink: