What is up with driver's side brake problems...

[RDOOGZ89]

Not even 3k on my gen 5 front brake upgrade and the driver side is throwing a shit load of brake dust....

The driver side is what seized up on me last time.

Someone please tell me its only because of the added weight from the gas tank being on the driver's side or something like that.

 

[Supersonic]

You may have to provide more information, but I would say check your calipers as my guess having never done brakes on a 4Runner.

From my experience on 1999 Prism, I will always try to replace the caliper when replacing the pads if I have the funds to. One side seized and a couple of days later the other showed signs of seizing, just old calipers and they needed replacing, as opposed to rebuilding, which should also be considered an option.

 

[RDOOGZ89]

Not sure how much more info i can share. Complete front end brake upgrade. Now the driver's side is throwing a lot of brake dust compared to the passenger.....

 

[AuSeeker]

Did you replace the rubber brake lines during the upgrade?

I ask because they can deteriorate on the inside and look perfect on the outside causing restricted flow of the pressure to the caliper or release of pressure casuing the pads to drag.

Another possibility is that the caliper even though it was replaced is dragging, you can check the temperature after driving around a bit and then check the rotors, if it's hotter than the other side, it's the line or caliper at fault.

 

[keakar]

Not sure how much more info i can share. Complete front end brake upgrade. Now the driver's side is throwing a lot of brake dust compared to the passenger.....

here are two "very important" details you failed to provide

1 - did you put brand new everything or were the calipers used?

2 - did you replace the brake lines?

brake lines swell up inside to the point of having no hole left and can act like check valves locking up perfectly good calipers because the line pressure cant be released.

some people have been know to use salvage yard parts to upgrade the calipers rather then buy all new so we cant just assume they are new if you dont say they are. that said, even new parts can be bad so it wouldnt be the first time brand new calipers were bad and locking up.

if the caliper is grabbing then you crack loose the bleeder screw and if that frees up the wheel, then its the brake line that is bad, if its still tight then the caliper is bad.

 

[RDOOGZ89]

Brand news everything, including new stainless steel lines. I apologize if i was being ambiguous. I have a serious love hate thing going on with my runner right now.

I was underneath poking around the brakes and i also noticed the boots covering the ball joints on my lca's are torn.

This damn truck!!!

 

[AuSeeker]

You still need to check the teperature of each rotor to see if the one with the problem is getting hotter than the other, if it is that caliper is sticking and needs to be replaced.

What brand of calipers did you get and do they have a warranty?

 

[RDOOGZ89]

I have no IR gun, but just putting my hand on the rotor after driving one side is not noticeably hotter than the other.

I did note that the driver's side is covered in surface rust while the passenger side isnt really. It was the same case before i changed the calipers. Idk if it just in my case but untill i installed my lift and changed the brakes the whole driver's side was more rusted than the passenger.

I got the calipers and rotors from centric. Not sure what the warranty is but i am going to call them on monday.

 

[AuSeeker]

IR gun can be had very inexpensively these days, for under $15 or so, good to have for many things.

Here's just one example.

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Temperature-Infrared-Thermometer-Laser/dp/B00QYX6F5G

 

[RDOOGZ89]

Excellent, i will be picking this up. Just blowing my mind that this issue could be popping up so soon after replacing everything.

It coulf be worse though, when my caliper froze before it would make the whole truck violently shudder when i tried to brake at highway speeds.