What is your favorite skid plate

[mybabydaddy]

Correct; need the "filler plate" if you want a seamless look.


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[STX4Runner]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong....

But the RCI front skid will only replace the factory engine skid and not the secondary skid behind it. You will remove the plastic air dam in front of the factory engine skid. Get the RCI filler plate.. Worth it!

The RCI front skid replaces the factory engine and mid skid. It extends from the front radiator support to the back of the oil pan.

 

[Koddo]

RCI Steel here. I chose steel because the strength of steel over aluminum far outweighs the marginal weight difference. I only have the front skid though (not full). I'm still using the Trail factory skids for everything else. The front takes the most punishment and, for me, is generally the guinea pig on what I can clear. I don't go fast offroad, especially in uncertain circumstances, so a front steel skid is perfect.

The weight difference between an RCI aluminum (18lbs) and steel (35lbs) front skid is a meager 17 lbs. This is absolutely nothing when all is considered. The difference in weight for a full RCI skid setup is 50 lbs....still nothing in my book. If I bring a friend along or extra equipment (mining equipment - motors, dredges, etc) the weight of my 4runner can be easily vary 200-400 pounds on any given trip. A 17lb heavier skid plate is peanuts....or 50lb for that matter, if I had a full setup.

And you'll appreciate it that one day your in new territory and are getting worn out and not being as careful as you should and you hear that *smack* down below. Steel baby.

 

[Hugo Stiglitz]

BUD BUILT hands down!

 

[AZrunner11]

Budbuilt! Mine are have scars but do what they should.

 

[Jono.ful]

FWIW - IMO every lb matters. All else equal a lighter 4runner will outperform a heavier one. If you add 5-800lbs of weight and go from 265s to 285s, I'd guess you're actually getting worse not better capability offroad.

By carefully choosing all of your mods/accessories you can realistically end up as much as 500lbs less. I built steel sliders, but aluminum ones would be better. At some point when I set up to weld aluminum for by boat I might take them off and sell them to replace with aluminum sliders. Aluminum skids. Synthetic winch rope, etc. A little here and there adds up.

OTOH most of the weight from skids is probably in the mud they hold. Adding more drain holes could go a long way toward reducing weight even with steel ones.

I would agree with keeping weight down, but aluminum sliders? exactly what kind of wheeling do you do? not only do I use my sliders as a hi-lift jacking point, but they have taken several hard hits with the full weight of the truck and look good as new - perhaps more importantly, my doors still function.

the debate over aluminum or steel sliders has been done to death: if you're overlanding and the worst you plan to see are dirt trails and tree roots, go with aluminum. If you're crawling over rocks, doing deep water crossings or otherwise plan on abusing your truck, go with steel.

@OP consider your needs carefully. the most expensive thing you can buy for your truck is any accessory you have to buy twice. Case and point, soon after I bought my truck, I picked up a set of ARB skids which served a purpose for a time, but once I started getting more into it, the ARB's just couldn't keep up - the coverage was inadequate, and despite the fact that they were steel, they bent and folded if you so much as looked at them the wrong way.

I've recently - as recently as last week - upgraded to the Hefty Fabworks steel skids. Planning to go shake them down this weekend, but my initial impressions are these things will be bomb proof. All the welds are top notch, the coverage is massive, they have a creative solution for the exhaust y-pipe, and are substantially attached to each side of the frame. I only have two criticisms: they should have used rounded hardware or bolt rings, and the transfer case skid should attach to both frame rails rather than just to one side.

 

[ubergoober3]

My schrockworks sliders paid off big time this past weekend at Bill Moore Lake. Factory skids did just fine. But sliders took a beating as I tool a wrong turn and got into a gulley that way too narrow with very large rocks. Without sliders I would have easily done $1000's in damage. I gouged the heck out of sliders. But, $4 for rustoleum flat black paint, and I am good to go.

2014 4runner Trail Premium. Shrockworks sliders, Weather tech floor mats, ebay LED interior and exterior lights. Some sort of high falutin tint, and clearbra.

 

[MeefZah]

The RCI front skid replaces the factory engine and mid skid. It extends from the front radiator support to the back of the oil pan.

Thanks!

 

[Engineer]

I would agree with keeping weight down, but aluminum sliders? exactly what kind of wheeling do you do? not only do I use my sliders as a hi-lift jacking point, but they have taken several hard hits with the full weight of the truck and look good as new - perhaps more importantly, my doors still function.

I may be off base (I am no fabricator/welder or materials engineer) but I don't think there would be any issue with aluminum sliders. However I am not aware of anyone who offers them.

 

[Antman]

I may be off base (I am no fabricator/welder or materials engineer) but I don't think there would be any issue with aluminum sliders.

Only if you changed the name to "Grabbers", lol.

Aluminum doesn't slide over rocks nearly as easily as steel.

 

[KAK707]

Nice build

 

[nnguyen]

Replacing the oil filter with the RCI skid plates on.

Looking to get the RCI skid plate but question how you remove the oil filter. In the TRD you have to take the whole panel off. How does the RCI plate handle this issue. I see there's an access panel in front and thought this was for the oil filter. Can anyone with the plates confirm this panels usage?

 

[SlickTRD]

Looking to get the RCI skid plate but question how you remove the oil filter. In the TRD you have to take the whole panel off. How does the RCI plate handle this issue. I see there's an access panel in front and thought this was for the oil filter. Can anyone with the plates confirm this panels usage?

You will need to take the panels off to do oil change.

 

[AdventureMan]

Looking to get the RCI skid plate but question how you remove the oil filter. In the TRD you have to take the whole panel off. How does the RCI plate handle this issue. I see there's an access panel in front and thought this was for the oil filter. Can anyone with the plates confirm this panels usage?

If you are referring to the whole front skid plate, yes, the access panel is to access the oil filter. There is a hole further back that allows access to the oil pan drain plug.

This is the latest RCI 5th Gen 4Runner design (just got it last week), which has a few changes that I've never seen in a posted picture:

- There is now a bulge plate below the front diff. It appears to have enough space to easily support a modest diff drop without having to lower the whole skid.

- There are now two vertical supports in the middle of the skid which bolt to the main engine crossmember. :bravo:

- The shape of the front of the KDSS version has changed and now has a vertical lip which covers the lower front edge of the radiator support like the regular version.

A plus for me is that the aluminum version of this skid weighs 20 lbs, which is exactly the same weight as the factory pieces it replaced (don't want to give up towing capacity by weighing the truck down...).

 

[VRunnerSR5]

I just installed my RCI skids. I had to add a couple of washers to the spacers in order to prevent my exhaust from vibrating on top of the plate. They fit great overall!

2010 SR-5, Toytec Ultimate lift with BMC, SPC UCAs, FN Six Shooters, 285/75R17 Nitto Trail Grapplers, SSO Sliders, RCI skids, CBI ditch light brackets, Yakima Megawarrior rack

 

[NZDZRT]

My Favorite Skid Plates: The best ones on the market!

RCI Steel. Hey, I bought them, painted them and installed them, so they must be the best! :flamewar:

NZDZRT

 

[young]

Do the RCI full skids in aluminum affect mpg?

 

[Off-choader]

Do the RCI full skids in aluminum affect mpg?

I don;t own aftermarket skids but from what I can tell stock is 25-30lbs and aluminum RCI are 67 lb.

Not including gas tank skid which looks to be about the same weight both stock and rci aluminum.

I dont think this would be much of a change in MPG but it adds up quick

 

[RainGoat]

Slidability - Aluminum vs. Steel

Only if you changed the name to "Grabbers", lol.

Aluminum doesn't slide over rocks nearly as easily as steel.

I'm curious to get others input. I have read posters who have said both aluminum slides over rocks easier than steel and the opposite, steel slides over rocks easier than aluminum. I have only used steel in the past but I am considering aluminum this time for it's weight & non-corrosion. I understand it's main weak point is cracking if hit hard on something sharp (as opposed to steel). My vehicle will spend a fair amount of time in the Pacific NW where it is always wet - plus I am buying for a 20-25year expected lifetime on this vehicle. Not hard rock crawling, mostly overlanding but there is always the unexpected mud hole or rock.

 

[delgadtn]

I'm curious to get others input. I have read posters who have said both aluminum slides over rocks easier than steel and the opposite, steel slides over rocks easier than aluminum. I have only used steel in the past but I am considering aluminum this time for it's weight & non-corrosion. I understand it's main weak point is cracking if hit hard on something sharp (as opposed to steel). My vehicle will spend a fair amount of time in the Pacific NW where it is always wet - plus I am buying for a 20-25year expected lifetime on this vehicle. Not hard rock crawling, mostly overlanding but there is always the unexpected mud hole or rock.

I live in Utah and have a 2018 TRD ORP and I went with aluminum. I mostly got mine for overlanding but I have wheeled down in Moab and Canyonlands and definitely put them through the paces; including getting high centered. They have held up great and I have not felt that they do not “slide.” They will gouge a bit more than steel would but it’s not noticeable when you are drive a 5,000lbs plus vehicle. For me, the weight savings and not having to deal with corrosion during the Utah winters was a huge selling point. I actually think that having aluminum skids that gouge a bit and flex is an advantage for my purpose. With steel, all that energy is transferred directly to my frame and body. Aluminum acts as a first line buffer of those impacts and I can replace those for a couple hundred bucks if needed; the frame, not so much.




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