What load range tires (C,D,or E) is everyone running?

schneidermj

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Been looking at new tires and will most likely stick with the Nitto TG's but am curious if there are any benefits of going with an E load rated tire. Pros or Cons?
 
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I'm running C rated because I have an 18 month old and a picky wife. Also, for a DD I didn't want to bounce all over. I think you will hear that the E rated tires will ride very stiff. If you are offroading quite a bit, the thicker sidewall may be better. For my use, the C rated was plenty. I go offroad maybe two - five times a year at best with this rig. Got a 69 CJ for the other stuff...
 
Will be looking for tires very soon. What are the stock tires- C? I certainly do not want E. I'll go with C or D- probably whatever came stock or whatever is recommended by Toyota. I don't like overly stiff and bouncy rides and at most, will be towing a pop-up camper.
 
Will be looking for tires very soon. What are the stock tires- C? I certainly do not want E. I'll go with C or D- probably whatever came stock or whatever is recommended by Toyota. I don't like overly stiff and bouncy rides and at most, will be towing a pop-up camper.

Stock tires are typically C or Standard (4 ply). Run them at 35-36 psi. If you go with what Toyota recommends they will be at 32 psi with a slightly softer ride, worse gas mileage, and shorter life.

I'm posing the question because I recently tried the Hankook Dynapro's and they bulge waaaaay to much.
 
I am running them at 34 but 35-36 will work well..maybe better. I need to buy a compressor since I prefer 30 when on forest service roads. So a D may be the ticket for you if you can find them in the brand/model you want. Are you looking at the Hankooks or something else now. I can tell you from personal experience that the Michelin LTX in E will wear like iron....and feel like it. :)

Let us know what you end up getting. All this info helps when we make tire decisions.

Stock tires are typically C or Standard (4 ply). Run them at 35-36 psi. If you go with what Toyota recommends they will be at 32 psi with a slightly softer ride, worse gas mileage, and shorter life.

I'm posing the question because I recently tried the Hankook Dynapro's and they bulge waaaaay to much.
 
I am running them at 34 but 35-36 will work well..maybe better. I need to buy a compressor since I prefer 30 when on forest service roads. So a D may be the ticket for you if you can find them in the brand/model you want. Are you looking at the Hankooks or something else now. I can tell you from personal experience that the Michelin LTX in E will wear like iron....and feel like it. :)

Let us know what you end up getting. All this info helps when we make tire decisions.

I'm more than likely going to go back to the Nitto TG's 4 ply (standard C). I was happy with them before even while doing a ton of 4 wheeling when I lived in CO. Since I live now in AL the only wheeling I do here is moderate when I go hunting, so it is more town and hwy driving. The E rated tires are more cash and will be a much stiffer ride. If I was in CO it would be a different story...

Some folks say the Nitto's are to squishy but with all that I have done in them in the past they are a good mix of road and off road comfort. While in CO durring a blizzard I was pulling cop cars, cabs, and larger trucks up hill. Their tires would just spin and slide off the side of the road. With my assistance they were able to make it up the hill. Wet and icy conditions I haven't used a better tire. This coming from someone who grew up in ND...
 
I just upgraded tires to a stiffer sidewall and am pleased with the difference. I had the Michelin Cross Terrains in stock 265/65/17 size which I believe are considered a "P" rated tire. Very soft sidewall and meant for mostly on road. Max pressure was only 35psi. I tow a 20' trailer and found them too soft.

Just installed BFG A/T upsized to 265/70/17 which are available in D and E rating. Mine are D rated and are very nice on road, they are still soft. (Its mostly for my wife too, but I like to mud it once in awhile :D and it's our tow vehicle) Minimal difference in road noise and comfort. The sidewalls are stiffer but the feeling is lost in the taller profile and deeper tread. They tend to track the ruts a little more but are better for towing since you can air them up more.

I imagine the Nittos are similar.
 
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schneidermj, E-rated tires are very stiff and your 4Runner will ride like a dump truck.

I think Nitto TGs are awesome tires, and will probably get them for my GX.

Like paraordnance, I run Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors on my 4Runner. I keep them at 35psi and they ride just fine. 37-38psi makes the tires too stiff for my taste.

CrossTerrains are P-rated. I had them on my 4Runner prior to SAa and they were great.
 
I run E rated BFG MT's at 40-45psi.

The ride is actually not bad at all, but my suspension is far from stock. I mean you feel small bumps/its a slightly more busy ride than stock, but the pros of the stronger tire off roading far outweigh the cons.
 
One thing I forgot to add is I have an 18' aluminum boat (with trailer about 1500 pounds). I "try" to go as often as I can. Drive is typically within 15 mins but also drive a good hour on occasion as well as a trip or two to Florida every year (6-14hrs). Yet another equation thrown in. Still somewhat undecided...
 
Running load E Revo 2, was running load C BFG KO.

Much of the reputation high load range tires have for ride stiffness comes from the fact that they tend to be used at higher pressures which, of course, increases stiffness. Cancelling out the pressure issue leaves the issue of construction, and that varies from tire to tire. Some LTs have a large, stiff bead filler area that extends up the sidewall quite a ways and is more pronounced in higher load ranges. That will contribute to a stiff feel. Others, like Revo 2 LT load E, for example, are constructed more similarly to the P-rated version. A tire like this will feel more similar to it's P-rated counterpart at the same pressure.

So, generally, the difference in stiffness for a high load range tire is probably less than many people assume at comparable pressures, but it varies from tire to tire.

Stock tires are typically C or Standard (4 ply).

C is a load range designation and that means the tire is a Light Truck tire (LT). Almost all vehicles 4runner size on down, these days, come stock with P-rated tires and so are standard load (SL) tires (not load range C,D, or E). It's rare to find LT tires stock so it's just as rare to find a stock load C tire.

Will be looking for tires very soon. I certainly do not want E. I'll go with C or D- probably whatever came stock or whatever is recommended by Toyota. I don't like overly stiff and bouncy rides and at most, will be towing a pop-up camper.

Toyota recommends passenger (P) tires which is what come stock and also means the load carrying capacity is not described by a load range letter. Load range letters are for Light Truck (LT) tires which have less load carrying capacity at the same psi than P-rated tires. In typical use, Ps are superior, in most aspects, to LTs. On paper, there is just one reason to get LTs for a 4runner: Off road performance/toughness, and even this is often given more weight than is warranted compared to what a P-rated all-terrain could deliver.

The thing to keep in mind that clarifies the issue is that the big dividing line in tires is between passenger (P) and Light Truck (LT). The discussion of load works much better when a distinction is made between the two tire types. Generally, load range is used for LTs and load index for Ps. It's one of those things where one system would be nice, but two are in use. LT is an older system that still works for very large vehicles but happens to have the side benefit of providing extra toughness for off-pavement use. The P-metric standard has encroached on a lot of former LT territory (or the european equivalent) and is much more widely used worldwide and better understood as a result. I only blather about this because LTs have kind of a rugged, romantic reputation that can make people think they'd be better off with them when the opposite is more often true.
 
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Thanks to all those who responded. I ended up going with the Nitto TG's P rated. I figure they worked for me before so don't screw with it.

JB-Thanks for the lengthy explanation. You explained it well. I tend to over think and "anal"yze things in great detail and wasn't sure what to do.
 
I know this thread is a few months old, but I'm bumping it up with a question.

I was all set to pull the trigger on a set of Nittos today, but I'm getting conflicting information. Two shops tell me to buy the E and two are telling me the C is fine. I'm really confused. Can somebody chime in that might be running the C rated tires? The only offroading I do will be fire roads and old mining type roads. This is also our daily driver, so the wife will need to be comfortable with the ride.
 
I'd get the D load rated version if it's an option but C is still a much better choice than E for what you described as your driving.

I ran D rated Nittos for 5 years and switched to C load rated Duratracs and am very happy with either. E is way too much for a truck weighing only 4000lbs and simply to harsh for a daily driver.
 
I'd get the D load rated version if it's an option but C is still a much better choice than E for what you described as your driving.

I ran D rated Nittos for 5 years and switched to C load rated Duratracs and am very happy with either. E is way too much for a truck weighing only 4000lbs and simply to harsh for a daily driver.


Thanks for the reply. I don't think Nittos come in a D anymore. I see the LT version which is D, and the P version which is apparently C. From my forum searching here and another site, it looks like I'll be fine with the C. If I could find a D rated Nitto, it would make this much easier.

How do your Duratracs compare, road noise, mileage, snow traction, etc...?
 

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