What not to spray fluid film on.

Glad to see I am not the only one. I buy it in 5 gallon buckets. I have even used it as car wax. Lasts about a month or 2 on the paint before washes off. Then will bead maybe at most a month more.

From my experience it works on most situations. :)

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I heard it can swell up rubber, but that’s all I could see being an issue on the fluid film can. Either way, I’m going to hit it with a couple cans and call it good. The rust seem to slowdown ever since it moved out west away from the salt belt 3 years ago. The rear diff cover looks the worse and don’t want to touch it being those covers are so thin. Spray it and forget about it.
cc8075cbbc5e39eb1437a7eb7e3ee213.jpg
 
My diff cover looked like that, I spent half a day going at the rear axle with a wire wheel on a grinder and put POR 15 on it, and afterwards continued to spray it with wd40 and over two winters the rust has not gotten any worse or come back on the painted areas.

As for hubs I put anti seize on them to keep the rotors from rusting to them
 
I heard it can swell up rubber, but that’s all I could see being an issue on the fluid film can. Either way, I’m going to hit it with a couple cans and call it good. The rust seem to slowdown ever since it moved out west away from the salt belt 3 years ago. The rear diff cover looks the worse and don’t want to touch it being those covers are so thin. Spray it and forget about it.
cc8075cbbc5e39eb1437a7eb7e3ee213.jpg
Those covers get rust pin holes in the rust belt. Yes Fluid film can swell rubber. I can validate that one.

Be best to wire brush the axle housing first then hit it with film. As the scale could fall off as it's already flaking off. But that's up to you. :)

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My diff cover looked like that, I spent half a day going at the rear axle with a wire wheel on a grinder and put POR 15 on it, and afterwards continued to spray it with wd40 and over two winters the rust has not gotten any worse or come back on the painted areas.

As for hubs I put anti seize on them to keep the rotors from rusting to them
Yeah do full spray of WD40, I spray everything before every winter. Super cheap and easy and only takes 30 minutes. No rust at 389K on my 99 chassis and body living in the salt belt.
SEASONAL RUST PROOFING using WD-40 only
 
I heard it can swell up rubber, but that’s all I could see being an issue on the fluid film can. Either way, I’m going to hit it with a couple cans and call it good. The rust seem to slowdown ever since it moved out west away from the salt belt 3 years ago. The rear diff cover looks the worse and don’t want to touch it being those covers are so thin. Spray it and forget about it.
cc8075cbbc5e39eb1437a7eb7e3ee213.jpg

hit this with a descaler. dont be afraid to puncture it. if you puncture it now its better than roadkill doing it LOL. But honestly though, that thing is far from being rusted through, even in the salt belt usually when they rust through its more of a pinhole than anything because once the diff fluid leaks out theres no more rusting. I just got done pounding on a housing that looked far worse to get the corroded elocker out of it. Hit it with a 5lb dead blow for at least 30 minutes while torching all around to break free the gasket seal. worst comes to worst, get marlin crawlers armor welded onto it. ive got a quality locker housing and im adding eimkeiths supports to it in addition to the housing armor and locker armor before i install it.

EDIT: My rule of thumb living in michigan, if factory paint is still present, you've got a brand new vehicle component still! I joke, but I don't joke.
 
Oh I didn't doubt you have rust. High humidity and salt air can cause oxidation.

I just never heard of FF having salt in it or made from animal fat.

I know I put FF on rusty steel and it dosent get any worse and I haven't seen oxidation being caused by it. I seen FF wear off and start rusting where is gone

Wheel well and axle areas it's going to wash away.

Going to need a different solution then FF in your wheel area. As I am heading to cosmoline type solutions for my wheel area.


As I know it only last a month or 2 at the most in wheel wells as I been monitoring that on my experimental rig.

The wheel wells are basically getting power washed every time it rains. So it dosent last long in that area of the rigs. :)



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Fluid film base is made from boiled lanolin, when I bought it I was told they use it to coat parts when they ship them by boat to Australia but when they dock they have to have someone degrease all the fluid film off to pass customs, biological checkpoint I guess. Most of the parts I used it on where exposed to higher heat so I can see how it can trap particulates and when it boils off they start rusting.
 
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Fluid Film is a tried and true product with an overwhelming amount of high reviews. Of course, you will always have those 1 or 2 people who think it doesn't work because of their own lack of ability to follow instructions.


FWIW: I have my complete frame and underbody coated in it. Rubber, metal, plastic, everything. The truck has been exposed to salted roads (both brine and rock salt) for 5 years, and I have not noticed any rust formation at all. Period. All of the bolts, nuts, clips, inside channels are clean from rust.

As long as you keep reapplying and not let it dry out
 
Glad to see I am not the only one. I buy it in 5 gallon buckets. I have even used it as car wax. Lasts about a month or 2 on the paint before washes off. Then will bead maybe at most a month more.

From my experience it works on most situations. :)

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I'd rather not waste my time and money on spraying goat milk grease all over my runner year after year.
 
Fluid Film dosent cause things to rust. That was what the forum users point they were trying to make. If that point was missed. It needs to be stressed.

Everyone has their opinions on things as well as have their methods of preventing oxidation. :D



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Fluid Film dosent cause things to rust. That was what the forum users point they were trying to make. If that point was missed. It needs to be stressed.

Everyone has their opinions on things as well as have their methods of preventing oxidation. :D



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Ignorance is bliss Brillo! If anything, anyone convinced of this will only ask us how we keep our runners so mint ;)
 
Yeah do full spray of WD40, I spray everything before every winter. Super cheap and easy and only takes 30 minutes. No rust at 389K on my 99 chassis and body living in the salt belt.

SEASONAL RUST PROOFING using WD-40 only



I sprayed it with WD-40 and other parts of the frame last spring. It seem to stick for about 6 months. I guess it’s enough time for winter in the salt belt states.


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I personally wouldn't spray fluid film in any door cavities, tailgate, or rocker panels because of the smell. This is likely personal tastes/or dislikes.

I use fluid film everywhere else but use less smelly products for any space leading to the interior. Rust Cure 3000 is an excellent and less smelly alternative.
 
hit this with a descaler. dont be afraid to puncture it. if you puncture it now its better than roadkill doing it LOL. But honestly though, that thing is far from being rusted through, even in the salt belt usually when they rust through its more of a pinhole than anything because once the diff fluid leaks out theres no more rusting. I just got done pounding on a housing that looked far worse to get the corroded elocker out of it. Hit it with a 5lb dead blow for at least 30 minutes while torching all around to break free the gasket seal. worst comes to worst, get marlin crawlers armor welded onto it. ive got a quality locker housing and im adding eimkeiths supports to it in addition to the housing armor and locker armor before i install it.

EDIT: My rule of thumb living in michigan, if factory paint is still present, you've got a brand new vehicle component still! I joke, but I don't joke.



I should just take off that paint layer of rust because it’s pretty much flaking off. I’ve just heard these pumpkin covers are thin and figured picking at the scab will make it worse. I have the e-locker as well and I hope it never gives me trouble because the unit looks brittle and rusted pretty bad. Side-note, I love the elocker and feel fortunate to have it.

I’m glad they don’t use salt just plow, sand and gravel in Oregon on the mountain passes. But it sure is slippery and if you don’t have 4wd or Awd you’ll need to chain up. I was back in Wisconsin visiting last thanksgiving and they got a few inches of snow and forgot how much salt melts ice and snow. Makes it a lot easier for 2wd cars and all those shit talkers in the Midwest thinking they can drive in the snow[emoji6].
 
I personally wouldn't spray fluid film in any door cavities, tailgate, or rocker panels because of the smell. This is likely personal tastes/or dislikes.



I use fluid film everywhere else but use less smelly products for any space leading to the interior. Rust Cure 3000 is an excellent and less smelly alternative.



It smells like beer that got soaked up in the carpet at a house party.
 
My buddy says it smells like stale piss. I sprayed in on internal panels. Smells for a few weeks to a month. I can understand folks wanting to use something else. I would head to a cosmoline based product that hardens slightly more as FF will not.

I just wanted to document my experiments with Fluid film. :) I also know its best to use semi solids for rust prevention and paints as an indicator. Semisolids can move and flow which helps protect metal for better then most products ever will. However, lots of products are semi solids.

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