08medic4x4
New member
is there a brand, or type of tint that better matches the factory tint? I want it to look as close to the same as possible, sorry OCD > me! haha
I just tinted mine w/ 20% last weekend. It doesn't even come close to matching the factory rear tint. It's noticeably darker from both inside and out.(I wish I would've read this thread before I spent the time/effort to tint them)
Unfortunately I am a bit OCD about these things, so it bothers me. I will be pulling it off this week and re-doing it in 30%. I found local glass shop that was willing to sell me the last few sheets that they had in that shade. I feel that will be a better match.
I have an appointment for tint this sat. I'm planning on going 35% all around. My main concern is not loosing nighttime visability, so will 35 provide that? If I wanted to go darker can I put 35 or 50 over without turning green?
Also does 220 sound fair for all the windows? And is 50% the lightest you can go? I really want to tint my windshield, not for looks or to go darker, but for the UV pro. I'd put 99% on it if I could. People say 50% isn't noticeable, but cutting out 50% of light, at night in pouring rain seems like a bad idea.
Why not just throw some 50% or 35% on the rears so your entire interior will be protected and the fronts wont be darker than the rear?
Yes, you will see fine with 35% at night. 20% is still easy to see out of, but it becomes more difficult. 5% is hard unless there is lighting on the road. In my neighborhoods I can't see anything unless I roll them down.
You don't have to worry about the fronts looking green unless you have 5% on them and the tint is low grade (most shops). The way they avoid the green with the lower quality tint is placing a "neutral" layer under it such as 35% or 20% so you can add whatever you want onto the 35% with no worries. I have a 5% that does not turn it green and does not need a neutral layer underneath. I had to do that before, and having 5% over 20% on your front windows offers ZERO visibility at night.
50% is the lightest you can go while noticing there is tint. 70% is clear and only provides UV protection. I opted for the 5% strip on the top of the windshield. Too risky to tint the whole thing, and after spending $250 on HID's I saw no reason to cancel them out by reducing my forward visibility.
A couple of reasons. NC has pretty strict tint laws. In order to pass the annual "safety" inspection, I have to peel off my tint every 12 months, get the inspection and then re-tint . If I leave the 20% on the front and do 35/50% on the rears to match, that's just more to remove and re-tint every year. That would become expensive.
Since I tint my own windows, I can do my fronts for less than $15 in less than 20minutes. So the long winded answer is: It's easier/cheaper/less time consuming to match 2 windows the rear, rather than match 5 windows to the front.
Thanks Josh, I appreciate it! The shop I'm going to uses the 3M tint, I think its the color stable stuff.
Hey gents,
Got my tint, and a few questions. I was dumb and thought tint went outside not inside so I took off my stickers. Now my stickers have a shadow on my window when its wet. Like I cleaned off everything, no residue, but when it gets wet the shadow shows up, kind of like the bathroom mirror when it gets steamed, ya know? Any ides on how to fix that?
Also I've got some hard water spots on my windows and I just used these clorox wipes to clean hard water off of my dish rack and it worked great. I want to try it on my windows, but ammonia will destroy the tint. Can I wash the outside with these wipes, or will washing it even on the outside destroy the tint? I don't see how, but when I asked the guy at the tint shop he said no, don't do it...but it didn't really seem like he was too sure.
Thanks Josh, I remember you used to have detailing posts where you used zaino's and your truck looked awesome. I just bought some of that glass polish stuff, but shipping is steep!
:cheers: