What to do when you have stripped skid plate bolts.

When drilling mine out to retap the welded nut completely broke off. I ended up just grinding down the weld flat with a dremel, drilling the hole out to fit a nutsert, and installing a nutsert right in the radiator support piece where the m8 bolt goes. Worked perfect!
 
I haven't posted for a long time, but I thought that I would give my experience. My local dealer did all of my oil changes until I saw that they broke off a couple of skid plate bolts. So I started to do my own service but I didn't enjoy dealing with ALL of the OEM skid plate bolts. (12 ?) The best $300 bucks that I've ever spent was on a RCI aluminum skid plate !
 
Tonight I ordered all the parts you recommended. I have not had the issue but might as well get ahead of it all right and do this before I do have an issue. Thank you.

There are two types of 4runners out there...those with stripped skid plate bolts and those not yet with stripped skid plate bolts.

After the Great Oil Debacle of 2017, I decided to start changing my own oil. Lo and behold, two of my skid plate bolts were stripped. :tsk:

So I ordered four more (I figured it's always good to have extras).
part # 90080-11373 .

I had to learn this the hard way: if your skid plate bolts are stripped, and you put a new one in where the old stripped one was, chances are it's going to strip the new one, too. And it will seem like you didn't even have to use enough force to strip it. (Good thing I got those extras.) So you'll need these two things:
1. 8mm x 1.25 tap
2. T-handle tap wrench.

Secure your tap in the T-handle tap wrench, and slowly, carefully screw the tap into the bolt threads by hand. There will be a bit of resistance, as if the threads feel like they're dirty. Well, they are dirty...with the pieces of thread that were stripped off your bolts. Once you run the end of the tap through the end of the threads, it will become far easier to turn. I went ahead a few more turns before backing it out.

When installing the new skid plate bolts, coat them in some anti-seize, and start each bolt by hand. Then, you can use your torque wrench to set them at 21 ft-lbs.

Hope this helps. Good luck!
 
I tapped all of the frame threads when I swapped on the TRD skid plate. Not sure if it was me or a Toyota tech, but I have a nut that's just spinning. The skid plate is stuck in place because the spinning nut won't come out. Looks like I'll have to drill out the nut. Is there easy access to pull any pieces of nut out of the frame that might fall in during drilling? This nut is at the front radiator mount location. Thanks for any guidance.
 
I usually use a cutoff disc to cut the head off the bolts that have seized into the weld nuts that break free. The best way to get them out of the radiator support is to use a magnetic tool - one of those cheap ones that is kinda flexible and pull them to a larger hole.

I'm still really unhappy about the quality of the small hardware on these. Here are two factory bolts I removed about 3 weeks ago. This is on a 2015 4Runner with 50k miles that has lived its entire life in Utah. On one of them the threads just literally fell off while I was backing it out.

zR_ZY9TPNqnp5XrQgoSILGYTrikmiPgbOfWJcFyuwG2TOwNGyQra-5ldIL7nIFUvk4oGF-OVJY57dt9ExW1wvOt67Mw-hFf2-OvOiUHPX6pkMuXIlyv1iB16t1tFD1L_oFoyhugUUKctZlT0gtcnTiYvTKvbQwVNfWUBtp-e1kVPQiwsRRBR1R8v0OARCSLX0T1LtYXldFfS_sXc1wswSZgRucVnc45yLxb3Auaq7OlyWYeFyAMQMc2JLGUZ7o2-GPQHRozdx8EpV5j6ivzwTsgL0vIRaDNsDHTM1T_WNVOwhk2eAiKOlaUcXfW0xlStmtOB3f5fe-zYkuT42CDKrzZPpbyooOKjMREERnk2TNDa5cjoUN_slI8xXXdZnJA6isfBsuNvhWlGRP3r3mGJMfnjLaEnqtnXPB5qxLGEwU9QIHTLT15mKsT4YtNIUCffIVXDAe63jAJ1NpD3XziDiK3yMWB_lSDzVg_6kjZwpBFIVQCaOwLvWK4dZIEpKQ1oAjsgar2AwOipzx8mtLlpfcVZ8VDjb98FGln4a__KioYzP1tNROKyWgSQs9u30FaBbZLyNlfbjN_5Vidv_nS79uFcXcnmUzlb37E6cIePq8vSYJA4uOLIgQWRUuymc4exCwkxjpY0P7YaZ2Q2rnDaLBf1xREY4icPtUcRgXku_XzGqzqf5oiNKHS-Nd2SJU6cWbz9L8xTeRjlYaDwqkIbd6tBfQ=w1656-h1716-no
 
Quick note to all that you can buy these 5 for $3.09 at Lowe's. Stainless steel. 8mm x 1.25x 20mm. Save time and money vs going to the dealer, and get better bolts. I threw some in the skid plate after having a bolt ground down and it holds solid. I know I will have to tap them next time I take it down, but I'll learn how to tap threads in the meantime. Don't have the time or knowledge today.
 
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I'm changing my TRD skid plate bolts and the new bolt kit came with 2 spacers. Do they go on the front or the back?
 
Came across this thread and out of curiosity went to check on the skid plate since I've had a dealership do oil changes thus far... Sure enough 2 of the bolts were stripped. Tapped all 4 holes and put new bolts in. If the 4runner is to ever end up in a dealership for an oil change again (unlikely), I'll make sure to take the skid off so they have one less thing to mess up.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
There are two types of 4runners out there...those with stripped skid plate bolts and those not yet with stripped skid plate bolts.

After the Great Oil Debacle of 2017, I decided to start changing my own oil. Lo and behold, two of my skid plate bolts were stripped. :tsk:

So I ordered four more (I figured it's always good to have extras).
part # 90080-11373 .

I had to learn this the hard way: if your skid plate bolts are stripped, and you put a new one in where the old stripped one was, chances are it's going to strip the new one, too. And it will seem like you didn't even have to use enough force to strip it. (Good thing I got those extras.) So you'll need these two things:
1. 8mm x 1.25 tap
2. T-handle tap wrench.

Secure your tap in the T-handle tap wrench, and slowly, carefully screw the tap into the bolt threads by hand. There will be a bit of resistance, as if the threads feel like they're dirty. Well, they are dirty...with the pieces of thread that were stripped off your bolts. Once you run the end of the tap through the end of the threads, it will become far easier to turn. I went ahead a few more turns before backing it out.

When installing the new skid plate bolts, coat them in some anti-seize, and start each bolt by hand. Then, you can use your torque wrench to set them at 21 ft-lbs.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

Yep. Got my 4Runner 2 mos ago with 25k miles on it. Skid plate bolts were stripped. Bought a tap and a wrench and cleaned it all up. Ordered 10 new bolts and a stick of Loctite anti-sieze.

Thanks for the info, even though you'll probably never ever ever see this post.
 
Gotta do this to mine.

I bought a 13 Trail in Feb '19, I noticed the front skids were missing on the tet drive, but wasn't to concerned.

Fast forward a few months to the summer, and I'm under there changing the oil and decide to investigate further. Four bolts are there, snapped off in the holes.

I've been dragging my feet on the project, but I have a set of RCI skids I need to get on there, because I want to do some winter wheeling.

I'm thinking I'll drill them out, then tap the holes for the next size up bolt. I need new hardware anyway.

It would have been nice if Toyota didn't cheap out so bad on the hardware.
 
I never thought to check the bolts on the skids I rarely or never take off. Thanks for the reminder to check/replace them next time I'm under there.
 
Thanks to the OP for this thread. I've had a front end rattle that's been driving me crazy for a few months. Sounded like it was coming from the front driver's side wheel/suspension area. Turns out 3 of my skid plate bolts are broken clean off.
 
Has anyone tried replacing the bolts with studs so the stud and nut can be replaced without retapping the frame?
 
If the oem weld nut provides no bite after getting re-tapped, I suggest going with a riv nut or plus nut, especially if you use the "skid plate" as designed.

When I went with the RCI, the front plate replaced two OEM sections, so I didn't have to worry about the busted mounting points that would not be used for the RCI. ymmv
 
If the oem weld nut provides no bite after getting re-tapped, I suggest going with a riv nut or plus nut, especially if you use the "skid plate" as designed.

When I went with the RCI, the front plate replaced two OEM sections, so I didn't have to worry about the busted mounting points that would not be used for the RCI. ymmv

Careful with those riv nuts.
They can loosen and then both the bolt and the riv nut will just spin.
That will be a worse nightmare.

Easiest is to just redrill the weld nuts for the next size up tap and tap them for the next bigger bolt.
You can buy flanged SS bolts at Ace hardware to replace the OEM bolts.
Be sure to liberally use a good copper antiseize compound to prevent future problems
 
Last time I was under the truck, I snapped the head off one of the skid plate bolts.

Finished up my work and buttoned it back up without replacing it due to time, but any suggestions on the best way to get the old bolt body out and prep for a new one?Just drill it out and re-tap?

First time dealing with this, I threw anti-seize on the other bolts as it's what I had on hand to hopefully prevent future issues.

Thanks!
 
Without pulling one of my bolts (it's winter out there) can anyone tell me the length of these 8 x 1.25 mm flanged bolts?

I'd like to run over to the local hardware store to buy some SS ones.

Thanks
 
Run a die over the OEM bolts. They're surprisingly bad in my experience. I cut a lot of metal off of a few of them. Not sure what changed. I've never had this issue with other Toyota models.

Then you haven't done an FJ Cruiser.
Same crap- dealer buggered mine up during their "free" oil change..

They aren't touching my 4R
 
Careful with those riv nuts.
They can loosen and then both the bolt and the riv nut will just spin.
That will be a worse nightmare.

Easiest is to just redrill the weld nuts for the next size up tap and tap them for the next bigger bolt.

Yeah, if not "properly installed", it will let loose. One should properly install everything (disclaimer). I wasn't going to explain the whole install procedure with the riv-nut tool, that's another topic. {I mean a metal drywall anchor could possibly work ;) }

I've not had a "properly installed" riv nut fail in this type of application, since it's just one out of the four mounting points, unstressed like a sway bar mount would be. It's amazing what one sees dangling under some vehicles.

Not the easiest fix, but I wanted more threads to bite on than I would have had otherwise. Keep the same size bolts for ease of taking the skid off single handed, with just one socket/ratchet. :biggrin2:
 

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