There are two types of 4runners out there...those with stripped skid plate bolts and those not yet with stripped skid plate bolts.
After the Great Oil Debacle of 2017, I decided to start changing my own oil. Lo and behold, two of my skid plate bolts were stripped. :tsk:
So I ordered four more (I figured it's always good to have extras).
part # 90080-11373 .
I had to learn this the hard way: if your skid plate bolts are stripped, and you put a new one in where the old stripped one was, chances are it's going to strip the new one, too. And it will seem like you didn't even have to use enough force to strip it. (Good thing I got those extras.) So you'll need these two things:
1. 8mm x 1.25 tap
2. T-handle tap wrench.
Secure your tap in the T-handle tap wrench, and slowly, carefully screw the tap into the bolt threads by hand. There will be a bit of resistance, as if the threads feel like they're dirty. Well, they are dirty...with the pieces of thread that were stripped off your bolts. Once you run the end of the tap through the end of the threads, it will become far easier to turn. I went ahead a few more turns before backing it out.
When installing the new skid plate bolts, coat them in some anti-seize, and start each bolt by hand. Then, you can use your torque wrench to set them at 21 ft-lbs.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
I'm changing my TRD skid plate bolts and the new bolt kit came with 2 spacers. Do they go on the front or the back?
There are two types of 4runners out there...those with stripped skid plate bolts and those not yet with stripped skid plate bolts.
After the Great Oil Debacle of 2017, I decided to start changing my own oil. Lo and behold, two of my skid plate bolts were stripped. :tsk:
So I ordered four more (I figured it's always good to have extras).
part # 90080-11373 .
I had to learn this the hard way: if your skid plate bolts are stripped, and you put a new one in where the old stripped one was, chances are it's going to strip the new one, too. And it will seem like you didn't even have to use enough force to strip it. (Good thing I got those extras.) So you'll need these two things:
1. 8mm x 1.25 tap
2. T-handle tap wrench.
Secure your tap in the T-handle tap wrench, and slowly, carefully screw the tap into the bolt threads by hand. There will be a bit of resistance, as if the threads feel like they're dirty. Well, they are dirty...with the pieces of thread that were stripped off your bolts. Once you run the end of the tap through the end of the threads, it will become far easier to turn. I went ahead a few more turns before backing it out.
When installing the new skid plate bolts, coat them in some anti-seize, and start each bolt by hand. Then, you can use your torque wrench to set them at 21 ft-lbs.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
If the oem weld nut provides no bite after getting re-tapped, I suggest going with a riv nut or plus nut, especially if you use the "skid plate" as designed.
When I went with the RCI, the front plate replaced two OEM sections, so I didn't have to worry about the busted mounting points that would not be used for the RCI. ymmv
Run a die over the OEM bolts. They're surprisingly bad in my experience. I cut a lot of metal off of a few of them. Not sure what changed. I've never had this issue with other Toyota models.
Careful with those riv nuts.
They can loosen and then both the bolt and the riv nut will just spin.
That will be a worse nightmare.
Easiest is to just redrill the weld nuts for the next size up tap and tap them for the next bigger bolt.