Whats the best oil to run????

[TheDurk]

I've been running Castrol Full Syn 5W-30 with a 6.5k OCI, using NAPA Gold filters for the last 50k (before that I did Valvoline blend at 5k OCI and same filter). Sent it off last year for a UOA from Blackstone Labs. They said all was good and I should try going longer. I just kept on doing what I was doing.

 

[z4r]

Yeah, it's whatever you're comfortable with. I'm doing this based on my years of oil changes experience, and examining a lot of used oil filters.

Have you ever cut open used oil filters after oil change? I have done it numerous times, and it's quite interesting. Modern engines don't need oil filters after the initial breakin period. I never found anything remarkable in a used oil filter, it's practically useless (following a sensible oil change interval of course).

I have done this for oil filters after one year interval (16k miles). I started out by changing out filters after 6 months while keep the oil (Mobil1 in this case, and not on my 4runner) and found out it's not necessary to change filters midstream.

It would be better off if you spend less money on engine oil/filter and put a filter (inline or otherwise) on your auto tranny, which is practically brake pads submerged in tranny oil, and whatever it catches can help its life.

My inflated 2c.

 

[Hatteras-surfer]

Interesting,
I went to Mobil web site put in Vehicle info and Drive condition (Above zero-F)
They recommend 10w-30 weight for High Mileage mix

 

[BrianSD_42]

so is the dealer spec 5w-30? I thought it varied based on climate.

z4r, you are suggesting we don't ned an oil filter. that seem a bit out there, I am sure if Toyota feels we need an oil filter then we need one.

has anyone else seen that display at the dealer of a fram vs Toyota filter? the difference was incredible.

(sent from the droid)

 

[Hatteras-surfer]

so is the dealer spec 5w-30? I thought it varied based on climate.



(sent from the droid)

Fellow Android user Ive been surfing the web for hours on this subject.
Its all over the place on grade recommendations climate appears to play major factor.
Two Toyota dealers used 10w in my 4run and Mobil recommends it so
I'm going to stick with it.

 

[TheDurk]

Fellow Android user Ive been surfing the web for hours on this subject.
Its all over the place on grade recommendations climate appears to play major factor.
Two Toyota dealers used 10w in my 4run and Mobil recommends it so
I'm going to stick with it.

Funny, for my '99 V6 Mobil recommends the 5W-30.

 

[02SE]

FWIW, my '97 owners manual lists 5w30 as preferred for ambient temps of <100° F, and 10w30 as suitable for temps from 0° F to over 100° F.

After the first oil change for which I used Pennzoil 5w30, I've been using Mobil 1 10w30 for 14 years now, with no problems.

My thinking was that if I were using a petroleum based oil, I'd use a 5w30. Since I'm using a synthetic oil which has better flow characteristics at extremely cold temps vs a petroleum oil, and is speced by Toyota for the 100°+ F temps the vehicle sees in Summer, I felt it was the best compromise.

YMMV

 

[z4r]

...

z4r, you are suggesting we don't ned an oil filter. that seem a bit out there, I am sure if Toyota feels we need an oil filter then we need one.

has anyone else seen that display at the dealer of a fram vs Toyota filter? the difference was incredible.

(sent from the droid)

Well I'm talking about a well-maintained car to begin with, and after breakin. This is how I see it, basically 3 main sources of contaminants:

1) dirt/junk ingress via air. If you have a properly maintained air filter (run-of-the-mill paper filter will be the best), nothing to worry about
2) combustion byproduct of carbon (soot). Your oil is capable of suspending it until change time. If it's getting to the point of clumping together and settling down, you let it run too long. That's why I never understood on people insisting change oil on a hot running engine. Cold engine will drain out more used oil. Now if you're neglecting oil change, drain it hot might have some merit.
3) oil itself breakdown. Here a quality oil makes a difference. Oil has come a long way though, and modern oils (even dino) are very good. BTW, I'm not talking about turbo'ed cars (which need syn oil).

Anyway if you open up a used filter or two (on a maintained car), you'll see what I mean. Simply it has nothing to catch.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Honestly guys, this not changing the filter talk is garbage. It is a $3-5 part, the engine is designed to have it, and it isn't difficult to change. The filter itself is designed to be a frequently changed part. It would be incredibly stupid to not change it regularly, whether you think it is needed or not. And you aren't saving much money by not changing it.

I don't mean to rip on your investigation z4r, but you are giving terrible advice based on anecdotal evidence. Someone who doesn't know better might take it seriously and stop changing their filter, and end up with a problem.

Seriously guys, don't stop doing basic maintenance properly just because the reason for it isn't blaringly obvious. And don't believe hands down what the dealer tells you about your oil either. Remember they are out to make money. Whatever is quicker and cheaper, they are going to do. Have you ever read of dealers lying to customers? Or not doing a good job? Or being straight up wrong about these vehicles? TONS of them.

Listen to the engineer that designed the engine (he has probably spent his whole life designing engines), not the guy selling you service on it that took at most a 2 year trade program.

Not trying to bash mechanics in general, just trying to point out who knows more about this specific design.

 

[z4r]

Don't take it wrong. It might be more palatable if I restated it this way: oil filter is like insurance.

Also I believe some manufacturers (Honda?) call for new filter on every other oil change.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Yeah, every other oil change is pretty common think, and that is fine. I just don't want someone reading that and never changing an oil filter again. Even with every other time, it is such a cheap part I don't see why not to change it.

On my other car, I recently had an STP oil filter straight up pop off while I was driving. I thought it might have backed off, so I put it back on (since there wasn't an autozone nearby either to replace it), and put more oil in it, started it up, and it popped off right away again. I guess the threads on the filter were jacked. I had to have a friend get me a new filter and everything seems fine now, but it just reinforced to me that filters are throw away parts.

 

[Hatteras-surfer]

First off,
A special Thanks to OP for thread start up on great topic and 'LittleCaeaser' for Oil recommendation.

Well its only been 24 hr since I changed to Mobile 1 HM 10w-30 and I'm happy with results so far.
Engine runs so much cooler has more pep pretty amazing really.
Next couple changes should improve performance even more due to cleaning agents getting the job done.
I'm looking forward to results.

 

[LittleCaesar]

The Mobil 10w-30HM is great oil, and has a stout additive pack to help older engines with possible blowby and with the valve seals as well. My buddy, before selling his T100, used this oil for 20,000 miles and said the engine ran smoother when he sold it than it ever had since he owned it from day 1. That may be a little much to fathom, but overall the oil seems to be a good match with the 3.4. Enjoy using it.

 

[T4R2014]

LOL @ anyone who thinks that they notice a big difference in performance by a simple oil change. Millions of people run regular oil without problems. That being said, I prefer to run synthetic. Why? I care about my cars more than most people do (not to say people who run regular oil don't care) and synthetic reduces wear and friction and that's proven. Even though it's proven it doesn't mean that you will notice anything. In normal daily driving I don't see how synthetic would help your engine run cooler. Racing I can understand it will though.

I use name brand synthetic oils and ONLY OEM/Denso oil filters. No, you won't notice a difference running OEM filters but they have the most filtering media. That and I don't want to replace the OEM parts with something of lesser quality.

That's just my opinion though. :thumb3:

 

[Hatteras-surfer]

LOL @ anyone who thinks that they notice a big difference in performance by a simple oil change. Millions of people run regular oil without problems. That being said, I prefer to run synthetic. Why? I care about my cars more than most people do (not to say people who run regular oil don't care) and synthetic reduces wear and friction and that's proven. Even though it's proven it doesn't mean that you will notice anything. In normal daily driving I don't see how synthetic would help your engine run cooler. Racing I can understand it will though.

I use name brand synthetic oils and ONLY OEM/Denso oil filters. No, you won't notice a difference running OEM filters but they have the most filtering media. That and I don't want to replace the OEM parts with something of lesser quality.

That's just my opinion though. :thumb3:

Well lucky me lol
I notice engine temps a little cooler and more pep.
Why would engine run cooler on syn?
Synthetic does a better job reducing friction transferring heat which adds up to less hot spots.

Why would engine have more pep 24hr into change?
I have no clue but sure can feel it.
Maybe a big chunk of sludge went to heaven lol

 

[T4R2014]

Well lucky me lol
I notice engine temps a little cooler and more pep.
Why would engine run cooler on syn?
Synthetic does a better job reducing friction transferring heat which adds up to less hot spots.

Why would engine have more pep 24hr into change?
I have no clue but sure can feel it.
Maybe a big chunk of sludge went to heaven lol

Haha your butt dyno must be accurate down to the tiniest fraction of HP gained. I do agree that synthetic will reduce heat but not anything that would show up on your engine temp gauge.

 

[Lineman]

AMSOIL signature 0W-30W with an AMSOIL filter

 

[mongo161]

For the Summer Heat I like to go a little heavy!

I've been running a 50/50 mixed blend of Shell Rotella, Triple Protection, 10W-30 Diesel Dino API-SM, CJ-4 and Formula Shell conventional oil, 5W-30 as my summer oil.

I used a Purolator Classic white Filter, Over-sized for the duration of the OCI.

Great results....quiet engine, smooth driving and no refill or top offs at all. I have found my summer blend with this combination.

Although, I will go up a notch next summer to 3 quarts of Castrol Tection, Diesel Dino, 15W-40, SM, CJ-4 and 3 quarts of Castrol synthetic in 5W-20/30 in a 50/50 mix again.

IMO....These Diesel Dino oils should not be overlooked for long distance highway driving in high ambient temperatures since they are very sheer stable, and have some very excellent detergents, cleaners and are more resistant to fuel dilution. They use these diesel Dino oils in 4Runners in South Africa, South America and Australia with the same T4R engines.

My winter mix is now in with a 50/50 mix of Shell Rotella T-6, Full Synthetic, SM, CJ-4, Diesel Synthetic 5W-40 and 3 quarts of Formula Shell Full Synthetic 5W-30. My filter of Choice for this winter run is the Bosch Distance +, oversized.

 

[cordrayj1]

dang mongo . . . is that overkill?

 

[Nunyabiz]

dang mongo . . . is that overkill?

LOL, yeah sounds like all he needs is an Eye of Newt, and toe of frog,
Wool of bat, and tongue of dog, then boil in a cauldron