Whats under your oil cap? Picture thread!

Shibby!

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I am somewhat hesitant about what's under my valve covers and want to compare how my "under the oil cap" looks compared to others.

At the moment my truck is parked outside till tomorrow, but I will grab a picture then when I do another oil change. Just trying to determine what's normal without popping the valve covers off.

I bought it used and had hoped it would improve, but it doesn't appear to be doing so.

So, if you are interested, please post a picture of your oil cap removed, then state mileage and oil change interval.
 
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I just bought a 96 SR5 with 255,000 miles on it. Mechanically it seems fine. I changed the oil yesterday. Took entirely too long fighting with the skid plates. But anyway, it didn't look brand new just a few deposits.

I put platinum in it this oil change. I keep looking at the sticker under the hood and see valve clearance specs. Like they get adjusted. Wouldn't have expected that from toyota. But then again motorcycles need adjusting and I think they are shim under bucket.

Need to search this Fourm on valve info I guess.
 
I just bought a 96 SR5 with 255,000 miles on it. Mechanically it seems fine. I changed the oil yesterday. Took entirely too long fighting with the skid plates. But anyway, it didn't look brand new just a few deposits.

I put platinum in it this oil change. I keep looking at the sticker under the hood and see valve clearance specs. Like they get adjusted. Wouldn't have expected that from toyota. But then again motorcycles need adjusting and I think they are shim under bucket.

Need to search this forum on valve info I guess.

They can be checked and adjusted. Most find them fairly decent. If I take the covers off I would be checking them, but without a means of adjusting them it means I have to take it apart... again.

I've ran Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, and I will be putting in Pennzoil Platinum tomorrow. Edge is the cheapest oil I trust. My next oil change (in 8000km) will be full synthetic Edge OW-30). I have a XR650R that I ride on the road which is a torture test for oil and I swear Mobil 1 is worse than Castrol Edge. Where a motor shares the same oil with it's gear box, you can tell when the oil has seen it's shear limit. Clutch action and gear shifts change. Plus it uses little oil and often under high load and low speeds.

The vehicle has been pretty much sound since I bought it. I'm suspecting more of a bad PCV valve more than anything. I will be getting one on my next order but I like my things mechanically sound and seeing some deposits under the cap kills me. Problem is do you fix something that's not broken, or try to improve it slowly with proper oil changes and valve replacement, or go more extreme with a flush. I know these have all been discussed before here to great lengths with lots of opinions (and sadly VERY little facts).

Engine runs smooth, fairly quiet (quiet for being 15 years old, especially compared to domestic), gets decent mileage (was around 18-20 before lift and wheels, now around 17-18 during the summer), and decent power (for as much as 3.4's can be considered)

My vehicle is used for commuting to work (13kms) and usually 200-400 kms on the weekend which is highway/back country roads most times with a hitch carrier and dirt bike, or trailer with one or two bikes. Prior to me getting it I think it might have been used as a light commuter which doesn't help the oil. Pedals don't show massive wear so that doesn't reflect commuter but lack of rock chips likely means not a ton of highways, at least in our winter craptastic conditions.

This thread was to be more of a compilation of what people have and whats most common. I know some have sparkling conditions which I'm jealous, but I know probably many of us don't. Just trying to determine how bad mine is.
 
No pictures of the oil cap but here are my heads when I changed the VC gaskets a while back. It had about 158K miles then, oil always changed every 3000-4000 miles (at the dealer until I bought it with 144K, I use Castrol High Mileage part synthetic). Not much in the way of deposits.

DSC_7623.jpg


DSC_7624.jpg
 
Just had a the valve covers off about 25k miles ago and nothing looked out of the ordinary with 155k on the odo at that time and I use M1 with a Puralator PureOne filter that gets changed every 10 months which is about every 4000 miles.
 
My Tacoma 3.4 at 142K One of the cleanest i've seen. I was replacing the valve cover gaskets.

Edit: Last one is a video.





Haven't had my T4R apart yet.
 
Just had a the valve covers off about 25k miles ago and nothing looked out of the ordinary with 155k on the odo at that time and I use M1 with a Puralator PureOne filter that gets changed every 10 months which is about every 4000 miles.

Those with covers off look very good! Thanks for posting.

Mine looks more like above. Maybe slightly worse. I'm hoping to go over to my buddies to steal a filter and change oil in a few hours.

For those who haven't posted pictures or made any meaningful comments, you aren't contributing. Please keep it to yourself as I'm sure I'm not the only one wondering this.
 
Those with covers off look very good! Thanks for posting.

Mine looks more like above. Maybe slightly worse. I'm hoping to go over to my buddies to steal a filter and change oil in a few hours.

For those who haven't posted pictures or made any meaningful comments, you aren't contributing. Please keep it to yourself as I'm sure I'm not the only one wondering this.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with that picture. Don't look at the baffle. look at the bottom of the head. It is slightly beige (varnish) but zero sludge.
 
There is absolutely nothing wrong with that picture. Don't look at the baffle. look at the bottom of the head. It is slightly beige (varnish) but zero sludge.

And that is what I'm hoping. My 1980 VW was the same way with the baffle having some minor deposits, but squeaky clean underneath.

Here's a picture of mine though. Kinda hard to picture without proper lighting. The oil is ultra dark because I have added seafoam and drove it this week to work with a few ounces, then just finished a high RPM trip to my buddies and back with a quite a bit in there (10km or so). On the highway I took it up to around 4000-4500 and kept it there under light load. I'm not 100% sold on the stuff so lets not make it a sea foam debate, but it does dissolve. It's what it is. I run my oil 7500-8000 OCI's using usually Castrol Edge, Mobil 1 or now Penzoil Platinum. I do both highway and city, with week days being quite a few shorter trips (13km city) but highway nearly ever weekend for 200-400km's with a few 1400-1500 km weekend trips in there. The weekend driving can sometimes be very dusty and filters are kept in good shape. (1.6km / mile)

With that said, you can easily see my baffle has more deposits, but underneath does appear ok. Makes me interested in looking but my valve cover seals only weep a minor bit. Once again, don't fix what's not broken! I may consider a few 3000KM OCI's with a dino oil. I'd like to research to determine if they do have higher detergents than "full synthetics". If not, my next oil change will be full synthetic Castrol Edge 0W-30 for winter.

 
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@ 103,000. Very clean considering the original owners changed the oil at the dealership every 7500 miles regardless of how long it had been in the engine. This 5VZ engine is the easiest on oil I have every owned.

IMG_0286.jpg~original


As per request: In 30,000 miles of ownership (since 07), I have run Mobil 1 EP, Pennzoil Ultra and Platinum, and as of now, Valvoline Maxlife semi syn & full syn, all in 10w-30 due to being in the South. A mix of using Pure One 20195 and Mobil 1 M1-209s used. IMO, Valvoline runs the quietest in this and most Yota engines.
 
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Looks great!

It's strange because I've found the 3.4 seems to have a bit of a following showing it's susceptible to sludge. I think that's mostly because of PCV valves though.

For those with removed covers, how did the baffles look?
 
For many years, I would change out my PCV valve with one from Advance Auto Parts or AutoZone. They were all plastic and cheap (by cheap I mean CHEAP = crappy). Then, one day while purchasing Toyota OE oil filters, I decided to buy a Toyota OE PCV valve. WOW! What a difference in quality. I will never but another crappy aftermarket PCV valve in my T4R. My engine is clean as a whistle running Mobil 1 changing every 5-7K, Toyota OE filter (or Mobil 1 Extended Life) and I run a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) every other oil change. MMO has mild cleaners in it and I have noticed a +2 to +4 increase in mileage on the highway. Most people claim MMO is snake oil but for me, it works wonders. I saw an old farmer pour it in the top of farm truck engine that had not run in three or four years. After sitting overnight, a few turns of the key and it cranked right up.
 
For many years, I would change out my PCV valve with one from Advance Auto Parts or AutoZone. They were all plastic and cheap (by cheap I mean CHEAP = crappy). Then, one day while purchasing Toyota OE oil filters, I decided to buy a Toyota OE PCV valve. WOW! What a difference in quality. I will never but another crappy aftermarket PCV valve in my T4R. My engine is clean as a whistle running Mobil 1 changing every 5-7K, Toyota OE filter (or Mobil 1 Extended Life) and I run a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) every other oil change. MMO has mild cleaners in it and I have noticed a +2 to +4 increase in mileage on the highway. Most people claim MMO is snake oil but for me, it works wonders. I saw an old farmer pour it in the top of farm truck engine that had not run in three or four years. After sitting overnight, a few turns of the key and it cranked right up.

I plan on getting one from Toyota too. I heard they are reasonable (~7$)

I've never tested this one, but I've only had the truck for about 30-35,000 KM's. I'll make sure to do it yearly for 7$.
 

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