Wheel Bearing Replacment Question

[mountain mike]

Started tearing into my 4Runner over the weekend and notice I have a bad wheel bearing on the drivers side. Since I have going to have everything torn off the 4Runner I decided I would tackle this myself as well.
I have searched and read and I have noticed a few people saying you can reuse a lot of the parts.

Question: do you think I can get away with just replacing the wheel bearing and snap rings? Or should I also order the inner and outer seals? The seals add about $50 a side an expense I would rather do without if possible.

 

[jmildoc]

all you need to buy is the wheel bearing, take the spindle off and take to reputable shop to have new bearing pressed in.

 

[txbonds]

Front or Rear? Would be totally different processes depending on which.

 

[mountain mike]

Front or Rear? Would be totally different processes depending on which.

That would be helpful information wouldn't it?

Replacing the fronts.

 

[txbonds]

Okay then above is probably good advice. If you are tackling yourself look at the write ups on the forum and you can check back through my build thread pictures for when I did mine.

Most of the parts can be reused as the seals are more dust shields than true seals. Provided nothing is broken or bent during the removal and replacement you should be good as noted above though.

If you have a press and want to do it yourself then its pretty straight forward as well. Hardest part I had was trying to find something to press the new bearing into the spindle with as I had new spindle and new bearing. If I was replacing though I could have used the old bearing to press in the new bearing.

Good luck with it.

 

[mountain mike]

Thanks guys that is what I wanted to hear. Good tip about using the old bearing to press in the new one. I don't have a press but have a shop that will let me do it or do it for me depending on how busy they are.

 

[wc11]

Had my rear passenger one replaced in January.
I chose to replace all associated parts since they were 16 years old with 471,000 km on it.
The extra parts were only about an extra $120 so no big deal.

90363-40020-77 bearing
90301-8807 O ring
90313-4801Oil seal
43517-35010 skid rotor
90310-50006 oil seal
42423-20010 retainer x2

 

[mountain mike]

Had my rear passenger one replaced in January.
I chose to replace all associated parts since they were 16 years old with 471,000 km on it.
The extra parts were only about an extra $120 so no big deal.

90363-40020-77 bearing
90301-8807 O ring
90313-4801Oil seal
43517-35010 skid rotor
90310-50006 oil seal
42423-20010 retainer x2

Thanks for the part numbers. I am going to try it with just the wheel bearings and snap rings since the rings were cheap. I typically would replace everything as you did but I have been dropping a ton of $$ on this project and am reaching the limit of my budget and I still have tires to buy.

 

[txbonds]

Thanks for the part numbers. I am going to try it with just the wheel bearings and snap rings since the rings were cheap. I typically would replace everything as you did but I have been dropping a ton of $$ on this project and am reaching the limit of my budget and I still have tires to buy.

Just pointing out he said REAR passenger side and you said FRONT. The part numbers are not the same. Just an FYI.

 

[wc11]

Yes apologies.
I think I'm wrongly assuming the parts are the same on the fronts.
Best verify the part numbers.

 

[txbonds]

Yes apologies.
I think I'm wrongly assuming the parts are the same on the fronts.
Best verify the part numbers.

It's possible the bearings are the same size and maybe even the ABS ring, but I didn't do fronts and rears at same time so I can't confirm that. That said, that's probably all that could be the same as the other parts are different and most likely the two I mention are different too.

 

[mountain mike]

I was able to pull up a parts chart on Camelback and ordered the correct parts. Hopefully I'll get them before the weekend so the project can continue.

 

[txbonds]

Nothing like the sting of the cost of those bearings. LOL

The rears are about the same price too. :lol:

 

[mountain mike]

Haven't made my way to the rear of the 4Runner yet. I am hoping/praying they are okay.

 

[Mynameistommy510]

Haven't made my way to the rear of the 4Runner yet. I am hoping/praying they are okay.

If the bearings aren't making noise or causing axle seal failure in the rear, they should be fine.

 

[mountain mike]

If the bearings aren't making noise or causing axle seal failure in the rear, they should be fine.

I hope you are correct. However, my fronts weren't making noise or leaking. But when I went to pull the tire off there was a little play in the hub indicating a wheel bearing.

 

[txbonds]

I couldn't feel any real play in the rear ones when I did them. The first one I thought had more movement than the other but when I started reading the FSM it said there should be a certain amount of play. I changed mine due to a leak on one side in the rear though.

That said, once I got the new ones in and took it for a test drive and annoying bumpy ride I was getting smoothed out. I thought it was my tires all along but I guess the bearing was causing it to not turn completely true.

 

[Mynameistommy510]

I've been involved with the replacement of both front and rear wheel bearings on the 3rd gen and I wouldn't compare the two as they are different jobs. But yes play in the bearing would indicate initial failure, followed by the bearing eventually making noises from wear and tear.
Rear bearing failure usually isn't recognized until diff fluid is found in the drum brakes, indicating bearing play causing axle seal failure (assuming the diff breather isn't clogged).
I'm not so sure you would even find fluid in the front as cv axles allow much more play. My indication for my front bearing failure was an obvious humming and grinding noise at random times and speeds.

 

[txbonds]

I've been involved with the replacement of both front and rear wheel bearings on the 3rd gen and I wouldn't compare the two as they are different jobs. But yes play in the bearing would indicate initial failure, followed by the bearing eventually making noises from wear and tear.
Rear bearing failure usually isn't recognized until diff fluid is found in the drum brakes, indicating bearing play causing axle seal failure (assuming the diff breather isn't clogged).
I'm not so sure you would even find fluid in the front as cv axles allow much more play. My indication for my front bearing failure was an obvious humming and grinding noise at random times and speeds.

You shouldn't find any fluid in the front as there isn't a direct line from the diff due to the CV axles. If anything it would be bearing grease that has liquified or outside liquid that has seeped in.

 

[Mynameistommy510]

You shouldn't find any fluid in the front as there isn't a direct line from the diff due to the CV axles. If anything it would be bearing grease that has liquified or outside liquid that has seeped in.

Much better said for the fronts