When to get a transmission cooler?

Honestly, with that shopping list, I'd say drop the meter, drop the filter, drop the hose (just get that from your local autozone for a few bucks), just get the B&M, then take the money you aren't spending on the other junk and put it towards 199 or 231 tundra brakes (199 if you have the 6 spoke wheels, 231 if you have the 5 spoke wheels, IMO).

The value you will get from the brakes (especially towing a trailer in the mountains) will FAR outweigh the value you will get from having the filter and gauge. The filter and gauge are "nice to have", the brakes are "might save your ass". And with over $100 spent on the gauge and filter, you are at least half way to the upgraded brakes (if you play the online coupons right).

I would buy a Scanguage ll (pretty sure it has trans temp readings for your '02 but double check) and just run a Magnefine trans filter. Go with the Tru cool 4544, my B&M 70268 is NOT up to task here in Denver. I can't even run in 4Hi when it is below zero! Will be swapping for a 4544 very soon.

Dude, you have done something horribly wrong if you can't run in 4Hi in the winter without overheating your tranny. Lots of guys run the 70268 (including myself) and run in 4hi during the hottest part of summer without overheating the tranny. The 4544 will NOT solve your problem; it's silly for you to claim the cooler is the problem here, unless your is somehow massively defective (which I doubt). You need to figure out what is actually wrong...

Also, the scangauge is nice, and definitely will do tranny temp on an 02 (takes a custom code which is available here), but I'd still say buy the Tundra brakes first. For the OP's upcoming usage, the brakes are more valuable than a gauge.
 
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I would buy a Scanguage ll (pretty sure it has trans temp readings for your '02 but double check) and just run a Magnefine trans filter. Go with the Tru cool 4544, my B&M 70268 is NOT up to task here in Denver. I can't even run in 4Hi when it is below zero! Will be swapping for a 4544 very soon.

My man, when do you install the BM? I am a fan of my 4544. Lots of BTU's. 20,000. LPD. Thin profile.
However, the temps you are getting with the BM indicate something other than the cooler as the source of the problem.
1) did you do the install?
2) Certain you accurately identified the send vs return lines from/to the trans?
3) If mounted sideways, is the send line (line that sends fluid OUT of the trans to the cooler) entering the cooler on the bottom, with the return line exiting on the top?
4) Confirmed fluid level, with truck warm and running?
5) air bubbles shouldn't be an issue as they can sometimes be with radiators.
6) kinks in hoses?
7) mounted in front of A/C condenser? in path of radiator fan? Above the bumper so it does not block the air flow to/through the cooler? close to but not touching the A/C condensor, within 1/2"?
8) when you installed it did you use any temporary plugs in the lines or hoses? you know, so fluid wouldn't spill out all over your arms and face and the ground? If so, bet you left one in there.
9) certain trans pump is working? easy to test. disconnect send line, put end in bucket, turn on car for literally 2-3 seconds to see if the fluid is flowing? ideally have another person start and stop the engine while you look. then refill.
i.e. step 37 ish+ Dropping Pan And Flushing Transmission
Finally, the one thing I have learned to be an absolute truth is this: if something doesn't work like it is supposed to, something is wrong. Stop, seek out the anomaly, correct it, avoid collateral damage. For example, slamming a door harder when it won't close doesn't overcome the seat belt buckle hanging down in the door jamb. Or, if trans temps are so far out of spec after installing the trans cooler either the install is faulty, the trans cooler is faulty, or there has been a coincidental failure in the transmission.
Did you post a thread asking for advice about this?
 
My man, when do you install the BM? I am a fan of my 4544. Lots of BTU's. 20,000. LPD. Thin profile.
However, the temps you are getting with the BM indicate something other than the cooler as the source of the problem.
1) did you do the install?
2) Certain you accurately identified the send vs return lines from/to the trans?
3) If mounted sideways, is the send line (line that sends fluid OUT of the trans to the cooler) entering the cooler on the bottom, with the return line exiting on the top?
4) Confirmed fluid level, with truck warm and running?
5) air bubbles shouldn't be an issue as they can sometimes be with radiators.
6) kinks in hoses?
7) mounted in front of A/C condenser? in path of radiator fan? Above the bumper so it does not block the air flow to/through the cooler? close to but not touching the A/C condensor, within 1/2"?
8) when you installed it did you use any temporary plugs in the lines or hoses? you know, so fluid wouldn't spill out all over your arms and face and the ground? If so, bet you left one in there.
9) certain trans pump is working? easy to test. disconnect send line, put end in bucket, turn on car for literally 2-3 seconds to see if the fluid is flowing? ideally have another person start and stop the engine while you look. then refill.
i.e. step 37 ish+ Dropping Pan And Flushing Transmission
Finally, the one thing I have learned to be an absolute truth is this: if something doesn't work like it is supposed to, something is wrong. Stop, seek out the anomaly, correct it, avoid collateral damage. For example, slamming a door harder when it won't close doesn't overcome the seat belt buckle hanging down in the door jamb. Or, if trans temps are so far out of spec after installing the trans cooler either the install is faulty, the trans cooler is faulty, or there has been a coincidental failure in the transmission.
Did you post a thread asking for advice about this?

1) No :redbrick: looks like I have some checking to do then!
 
From my friends trans shop. They use TrueCool because it has no moving parts. I bought a truecool.

They're no different than a thermostat. And they fail also.
 

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