Where can I get some LCA Camber adjustment bolts?

[dgmorr]

Thanks. Is an oxy/acetylene torch not effective either? Just trying to figure if it's worth me attempting or just let the shop struggle with it.

 

[blackoutt]

Some people have torched the arms off just below the bushing allowing better access with the sawzall but with the restricted area the ends of the bolts reside in there's really no help with a torch. You'll see what I mean once you try to get in there with a grinder and 4" wheel and get part way through then start touching off on other things that you don't want to cut.

 

[CruzadoBlanco]

Thanks. Is an oxy/acetylene torch not effective either? Just trying to figure if it's worth me attempting or just let the shop struggle with it.

trying to get to the bolt with a torch is not a great idea. i mean if you wanna cut the arm off to get to the mount easier you can. but a torch on the actual bolt/mount will just damage the frame side mount and or weaken it.

 

[eaglesfish]

no the moogs are not a good choice for the LCA. the rear bolt causes slop in the bushing and frame allowing the arm to move around and clank. the best bet is to get a new set of OEM.

I have a similar experience as CruzadoBlanco. I put Moog camber bolts in front passenger lca and there was slop. Used Moog because they were ~$35, readily available, and had grease fittings. OEM is dealer special order for about ~$120, but you can find on-line for about ~$75. Moog caused really bad popping and grinding noise when turning tight, like in parking lots. Took a month to figure out what the problem was. Problem was the Moog front forward camber bolt (the one with the sleeve). Replaced both bolts with OEM and problem fixed. If you look at the front forward Moog and compare to OEM, you will see three design differences. The front forward sleeve on the Moog bolt is shorter, the washer is not pressed/welded to the bolt, and the washer is a smaller diameter than the OEM. When I pulled the moog camber bolt you could the sleeve was damaged at head end (inside) due to moving around. The shorter sleeve meant there was less bearing strength against the frame tabs and smaller diameter washer allowed the bolt to move about 1/8 in before hitting the welded guide plate. OEM washer diameter is pretty tight to welded guide plates and bearing point on nut end (inside) of sleeve is about 1 inch from edge. Just sharing my experience.:wink2:

 

[erklep]

the way the MOOG bolts are for the cam adjusters allows the LCA to wallow out and clank. its a single size all the way through, the oem has slight change in size along its length. there is a big thread somewhere about it all. it might be in one of the longterm clank issue threads. a majority of the issues were resolved by putting an OEM bolt in the rear bushing. when i do LCAs in a few weeks im gonna go with new OEM LCAs and bolts.

Great information about the OEM bolts. So if they change in diameter slightly along the length then which direction should the bolts pass through the bushings? threads toward the front or rear of the vehicle? Or does it even matter?

Edit: Lots of contradicting photos on the internet. Im pretty sure, from the factory, they install them inside to inside so the threads would face away from the axle(rear bolt with threads toward rear of vehicle, front bolt with threads toward the front of vehicle). Seen here:

But some threads show guys with threads facing in like this dealer alignment...

Or ES diagram shows both bolts with threads facing the rear of the vehicle

Total chaos shows the threads facing in toward the axle

And SPC shows them facing away from the axle

SO to answer my own question, I would have to ASSUME that it really does not matter which direction they face.

I do have to note that it is easiest to install them with threads facing toward the axle since the bolts are so long. Anyway, I solved my clunk issue with a set of OEM bolts:whoo:

 

[Dylan]

Am I missing something, or is the bolt/sleeve that I labeled with the blue X only on one side of the LCA?
I'm going be installing new cam bolts since they seized and decided to do new LCAs as well. So I need to verify if the cam bolts are all that I need since the control arms come with the bushings installed.

 

[mk1007]

Am I missing something, or is the bolt/sleeve that I labeled with the blue X only on one side of the LCA?
I'm going be installing new cam bolts since they seized and decided to do new LCAs as well. So I need to verify if the cam bolts are all that I need since the control arms come with the bushings installed.

I did the same thing on mine last Dec. I would get everything you have circled in red, along with some copper anti-sieze. Once you make the decision to cut em out and replace the LCAs, the job is much easier... just more expensive.

 

[Dylan]

I did the same thing on mine last Dec. I would get everything you have circled in red, along with some copper anti-sieze. Once you make the decision to cut em out and replace the LCAs, the job is much easier... just more expensive.

So can you tell me what the part is that I marked with a blue X in my picture above is? I just got my replacement SPC cam bolts and there's no sleeve looking part like that. Here's a pic of them in the new LCAs that are getting installed. There's no way in hell that white plastic tube they came in is supposed to be installed. But it does show how much space there is in the control arm end.

 

[mk1007]

So can you tell me what the part is that I marked with a blue X in my picture above is? I just got my replacement SPC cam bolts and there's no sleeve looking part like that. Here's a pic of them in the new LCAs that are getting installed. There's no way in hell that white plastic tube they came in is supposed to be installed. But it does show how much space there is in the control arm end.

That's the cam portion of the cam bolt assembly;probably the most important piece of everything in that image. The bolt is used to guarantee the clamp load... to hold the control arm to the frame, the cam (marked with the X) is the part that allows one to change the position on the control arm relative to the frame for alignment.

There are two of them, one for each frame mounting point.

 

[Dylan]

That's the cam portion of the cam bolt assembly;probably the most important piece of everything in that image. The bolt is used to guarantee the clamp load... to hold the control arm to the frame, the cam (marked with the X) is the part that allows one to change the position on the control arm relative to the frame for alignment.

There are two of them, one for each frame mounting point.

Thanks...turns out the set I got was Fake News and incorrectly listed. I got a new set from the dealer for all parts involved. Here's the other thread where I explained.

 

[kcdehart]

Wish you the best of luck. I had to do mine recently and just ended up replacing both control arms with Mevotech pieces. They're working great so far. I did have to sawzall off several of the bolts/bushings, though. So be warned. It took ~8 hours of straight labor so would be pretty expensive from a shop.

I do have one of the adjustment washers for sale if you want (leftover since I fortunately didn't need to replace em all). They're ~$30 each from the dealer

 

[sumday]

one maybe two carbide sawzall blades should be enough

 

[kcdehart]

one maybe two carbide sawzall blades should be enough

It took me 6 harbor freight sawzall blades and 2 decent Lowes blades :rofl:

And the 2 Lowes blades cut through twice as much metal as the HF ones.... (yes, I got a sawzall from HF that day for $27. And yes it still works)

 

[sumday]

carbide blades are the best thing since sliced bread. one blade will be more than enough and still be good! cuts fast too though at least $10ea

 

[Arcturus08]

Wish you the best of luck. I had to do mine recently and just ended up replacing both control arms with Mevotech pieces. They're working great so far. I did have to sawzall off several of the bolts/bushings, though. So be warned. It took ~8 hours of straight labor so would be pretty expensive from a shop.

I do have one of the adjustment washers for sale if you want (leftover since I fortunately didn't need to replace em all). They're ~$30 each from the dealer

How are the Mevotech LCAs holding up? Getting ready to do this and would like to save $$ if possible.

Thanks!

 

[kcdehart]

How are the Mevotech LCAs holding up? Getting ready to do this and would like to save $$ if possible.

Thanks!

Seem to be great so far! I've probably only put 5k miles or so on em cuz I don't drive a ton, but no issues here.

 

[Ziggenss]

Thanks for the info.

Do the bolts seize to the cam sleeves or do the cam sleeves seize to the bushing sleeve?

In my experience, at 240K, The bolts seized to the cam sleeve. And the cam sleeve seized itself into the bushing. We had to heat the upper left bolt to free it, and we tried heating the upper right bolt but the rust had welded it in. we had to saw the cam sleeve off and walk it out. Now to decide whether we go with OEM non greasable, or MOOG or another brand with greasable fittings. I'm calling my local 4x4 shop to see what they recommend! He recommended AC Delco for LCA and Spc for UPA...... but those damn rusty bolts .........

 

[djkurious]

SPC's worked for me, no issues.

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